garthpro

So in your professional opinion, do you think this could be it? the wires that is/

$72 with discount! subie was 60 (BEFORE discount!)

Ok, so it COULD be the wires, even though they charge and arm and an rump roast at Napa! I get a 20% discount and they were still more than OEM! How often do you recommend a change?

Stick sorry.

I just thought of one more thing, this last time when the light came back on, it was when I started out from a stop light, and I really under accelerated. not paying close attention. I was probably texting :> I somehow think this little tidbit is an important clue, but the double IPA is flowing so ..... I also am getting crappy gas mileage, down around 22 city. way low for me.

I replaced all this stuff when I did the HG. Will it need to be replaced again? again, I don't claim to know this stuff, so if I make a mistake here or call something wrong, please tell me

WHat was your final solution to this problem? I am having a similar one.

Actually I remembered the switch trick from another job and did that today, swapped 2 to 4. same feel. so perhaps the valve adjust is the way to go. any idea what this costs? roughly? I have never done it. and should I go to a dealer?

darn. NAPA! I didn't realize/know Belden was a NAPA product. I don't trust NAPA stuff. But can someone please tell me why the wires, as long as they are somewhat acceptable, same resistance, etc, would cause this issue? I want to know the answer, just not fix the problem! I could do that by buying a new car.

I had a guy who basically I was helping. I don't think we changed anything, as no upper work was required. so we thought. heads were flat on check. but the problem wasn't there immediately, it took a few months

I did the plugs and wires same as HG, april 07, 190k then plugs again at 204, NGK platinum

I cleaned everything when I did the rebuild. but I will try again when I get the time thanks

2k obw EJ 25 215k miles I replaced the HeadGasket last April, ~9 mos. 190k also replaced everything else that was looking worn Had it running great now I keep getting the misfire code. replaced plugs and wires again, NGK pltinum and Belden 7mm So this week I tried the Ignition Coil. same thing. I can feel a rough spot on acceleration SOMETIMES. that is when the idiot light returned.

I am seeing the same thing on 2k obw with 215k on it. EJ25. only showed up after new Headgasket. could the coil have received undue wear when the overheat occurred? the rebuild was about 190k. and this is the only remnant. Car still runs great tho. and oh yeah, I got some solid and some flashing! but when I ran it it was just misfire 3 and 4 !

Where in PA? there are tons of subeys in in Pitt. so there should be multiple mechanics there.

Turning, not worth the time and effort! I forced the dealer to "fix" mine, he turned them. within 5-10k, they were shaking like a leaf again. Everyone tells me that it is not worth the time or effort. Just buy new ones. is this pretty much what everyone thinks?

2000 outback. I have been putting new rotors on it for the entire year I have had it. they only last a few thousand miles. then wobble! I replaced on caliper for sticking piston. but my rotors are def doing something. you can see the difference around the rotor. looks like hot spots. at least Napa warranties the rotors! I haven't tried the sanding of the rotors. so that might be next. but I also have a huge problem keeping the tires in balance! bought them new, get them rotated every 5 or 6 k. no idea. any suggestions out there. ps, if anyone read my HG posts, I did a road trip ohio to georgia last w/e. no probs

I rode my bike from anchorage to .. somewhere out in the middle of the state toward Nome. Iditasport human powered race February 2001, anyway, my point is that decided only real men and bears belong up there. I thought I was going to lose a foot! no place for me or my outback! they followed the race with some 6 wheeled swiss army vehicle. crazy! Let me know on the gasket durability! since all my friend's subeys are getting older, it will be interesting. garth

Car is up and running. The Apex gaskets were crap! I would never attempt this again without OEM parts. I did use an aftermarket radiator, but it is an easier fix if it goes wrong, and I have used them before with great results. I also ended up replacing : - plugs - Wires - Knock sensor - radiator, pressure cap - thermostat - water pump - timing Belt - several idler pullers for Tb after the first few hundred miles, I will see how it runs. I was at 27+ highway before. garth

APEX! says the stamp. don't knock 'em yet, but...... didn't think to check gaskets which were laying with heads waiting to go to machine shop. do you have CURRENT thickness #s? for phase II

I'll post that info Monday so EVERYONE can beware. I left the package at the garage. Thanks again for all your help and knowledge. I love the car. this is a learning experience for sure. maybe next time I start with less miles from the gun! I purchased super cheap. jan 06, 140k. 5500$ beautiful coat. so I don't think I am upside down yet! company pays for everything anyway. garth

excellent! Thanks! that will be first thing tomorrow. What do you think about the situation getting worse? could it be the sleeves moved, but were cool with the old gaskets, and the situation only presented with the new gaskets?

maybe 3 minutes. more like less than one minute. it overheated at night, shut off immediately when I noticed. I think I caught it right away. the smell didn't even have time to infiltrate the cabin. how would you recommend checking? I am getting the heads pressure tested monday, but beyond that...?

yo Nip, 1 ?, how do I know if the engine is "cooked" ? it seemed to run pretty smoothly after the rebuild. just still had exhaust gases in the coolant. and when I tore into again, there was a fair amount of coolant in the 1 &3 cylinders g'

what did you mean by "updated Headgaskets"? is there a new "spec" for the phase II 2.5 HG? or is the 0.026 still the accepted?