wildwagonz
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Posts posted by wildwagonz
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My neighbor owns a body shop and regularly rebuilds high end European cars....needless to say he does all my body work too and he told me to always always always remove those rubber strips
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Anyone know the specs? I am thinking of tackling a head gasket job on an 02 Forester I acquired and want to be sure I get it right...The drivers side gasket is leaking VERY badly onto the ground
Thanks
~Tim
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Hi all, quick question
Is the phase 2 Ej25 (02 Forester) head gasket torque sequence/specs the same as the phase 1 DOHC model?
if not does anyone have a FSM handy and knows the torque specs?
Thanks
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Fixed.....
New Solenoid Fixed the problem, Thanks for the help!
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1
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Well im thinking solenoid but before I go dropping 180 bucks for a non returnable one at the dealer, does anyone here have access to a used one possibly from a junk tranny lying around?
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OK......so I measured the resistors ohms and it came up 12.7 figured it was within spec. Then checked the tranny connectors they were not crushed all seemed fine. Measured ohms on #5 red wire to ground got nothing, pulled tranny pan measured solenoid pin to ground still got nothing all other solenoids were measuring something around 12 ohms but nothing on the line pressure solenoid. So does that mean its bad?
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I have checked the wires none were crushed and I never thought about the resistor. Would it possibly go bad on a motor swap I thought those usually never go bad. Are the clearances between the tranny pan and the solenoids that close? All was completely fine before the engine swap.
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Hi all,
I just finished changing the engine in my friends 02 Legacy (threw a rod at only 114k miles)
No problems tranny wise prior to the engine swap, got the engine in last night and now I have a flashing AT Oil Temp light and a Check Engine light on as well. I read the CEL with my code reader and it comes up P0748 pressure solenoid circuit.
Then I did the "secret handshake" to get the TCM codes and I get 7 long flashes and 5 short flashes for a code 75.
I have searched all day today online and came up with the possibility of dented transmission pan when i jacked it up to drop the new motor in. I checked the pan and it doesn't appear bent but the bottom does seem a slight bit (VERY SLIGHT) caved in. Its just the ever slight concaved, and when I say slight i is barely noticeable.
Could it be thats the problem? I am going to pull the pan off tomorrow to check everything out.
Just was wondering if someone can elaborate on what exactly happens with the solenoid or if someone else has had this happen to them? Could it be something else? I checked all the connectors on the transmission on the top near the firewall and they all are fine.
Thanks for your help in advance.
~Tim
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Just a useful sidenote regarding your 90 legacy....my Subaru mechanic coworker/friend told me a while back that the 90 legacies with an early production date were notorious for the blocks cracking causing the problems you are experiencing, I ran into this with my 90 legacy as well which was made in 89. Replaced the engine with a 91 2.2 and all has been fine since. Had another friend with the exact same problem too
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Ill do a fluid change but should I use a thicker oil? It only makes sense that if it doesn't do it when its cold and does when its warm that the thicker cold oil is helping right?
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I'm running 80w90 in the car now I believe but the fluid has been in tere a little while for at least 30k miles
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tWell my 97 legacy 5speed is grinding when I shift into 3rd. Car has 170000 with a 2.2. When the car is cold it shifts perfectly then once the engine/trans is warm it has a slight blip of a grind only when I shift into 3rd. Its the sane every time I shift just a slight grind but still runs and drives fine. I was just wondering why it does it only when its warm and no cold? Should I use thicker oil? I just want to do whatever I can to keep it from getting worse. Thanks in advance...
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I still have the pan down, I was thinking it could be that, but I thought that only effected the 3rd to 4th shift.......
I will replace it anyways,
Anything else I should check or replace while I am under there....
I just dont understand this thing, it shifts like brand new EVERYTIME once it is warmed up
Whats the procedure for checking the ATF oil temp codes, I searched and came up with gound out a pin #5 I think it was then do the whole shift through gears and press gas pedal....is that right?
Thanks
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So I have a problem I have never encountered while working on any Soob 4eat....
Car is a 97 Legacy Gt sedan, 119,000 miles.
When the car is cold after just starting (even if you let it sit for a minute or two) you shift into drive and take off and the car absolutely will not shift out of 1st gear. NO slips shutters or anything just wont shift out of 1st period, doesn't matter of the gearshift position. Pull over and let the car get up to operating temp (good ten minutes or so) and the transmission is fine, shifts right up through the gears flawlessly with no slips, glitches or anything.
ATF oil temp light did flash after shutting the car off and restarting and I got 16 flashes I believe. IF the car is warm and you shut it off and re start there is no flashes of the ATF light....everything acts as usual.
This is extremely strange to me, the car is in the garage now with the transmission pan off, everything under there looks normal, does anyone have any idea what could cause this?
clueless
~Tim
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Update,
I swapped out the cluster with one from a 97 GT and the speedo still doesnt work, The cruise works fine, could it be that the 97 Gt cluster isn't compatible with the 99?
I am going to try to tear apart the 99 cluster and clean it as mentioned but shouldnt the 97's cluster be ok?
Thanks
~Tim
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I am having problems with the speedometer intermittently not working on my 99 Legacy 2.2.
I am assuming its the speed sensor on the trans?? Its an auto by the way
Where is the speed sensor on these new gen 4eat's?
Thanks for any input
~Tim
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I have done that already and it wont even start......sounds like it has no compression at all....spins very very freely with the starter with almost no resistance even with the new belt and pump on there
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Hi,
Sorry yeah I should have went into more detail,
The one idler (toothed one) not smooth that bolts to the water pump froze up. It locked up solid and was a Subaru part, never made any noise prior to this. It sheared the bolt right off the water pump and pulley and away went the belt and timing and apparently valves
I am hoping it is just heads, if you can PM me with some prices on some used good heads, I am just trying to get this thing going for her as cheap as possible
Thanks everyone for suggestions
~Tim
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Thanks for all the suggestions, The bet was actually not due for another 30,000 miles and she always has kept up on the maintenance she just does nt have the money at this point to pay for a huge fix....
I know I got the belt on right, I work on Subaru's for a living, Just have never run into a timing belt doing this on a 2.2, usually its just replace the belt and your good to go......
I am thinking bent valves, but just want to be sure the pistons wouldnt have been weakened or anything by coming in contact with the valves...
Thanks
~Tim
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Sweet, I'll pull the engine out this week or try to and get the heads off, I would hate to replace the engine if it dont have to, She has had that car since it had low low miles and I have done all the work to it, it ran so well to just scrap the engine (now has 134000 on it) She also has VERY limited budget and a junkyard engine can run somewhere up to 5 hundred bucks which more than she has really....
I'll see what the pistons look like when I get in there and go from there
~Tim
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My friends 98 Legacy with a 2.2 had a timing belt idler seize up while she was driving and the car quit...
I tore it down and threw a new pulley on it and a new belt and went to start it ............
Bad news, It just spins over freely with no resistance, sounds like there is no compression at all
Im assuming the valves smacked into the pistons and bent the Sh*t out of them..
My question is, should I pull the heads off and have them fixed or throw a new set of heads on there, or should I just replace the engine with a junkyard engine? Would the valves hitting the pistons damage the pistons, Im just saying I don't wanna put the money into redoing the heads and have there be a weak spot in the piston from the contact with the valves and have something happen shortly after fixing it....
Anyone have any experience with this, Stupid Subaru for making the newer 2.2 an interference motor
Thanks for the insight...
Tim
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That was it.....Shifts perfectly
Thanks!
~Tim
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Hi all.....
Update, Transmission pan was dented slightly, I took it off and sure enough there was a broken wire going to one of the duty solenoids.
Fixed it up and waiting for the RTV to dry on the pan....Thanks
~Tim
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hi,
Thank you all for the tips, I checked under it and the transmission pan is somewhat bent :-(
I'll pull it off and report findings....
~tim
99 Legacy Brighton 2.2 - Phantom Stumbling/Hesitation Problem (Driving Me Crazy!!!)
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Not sure of this is an answer to your problem, but I had an 01 Legacy that was stumbling and surging I replaced lots of stuff and it still did it, ended up being the screen on the fuel pump in the tank was full of rust....removed the screen and it ran perfectly