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cawain

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Posts posted by cawain

  1. Hi, Carl here. Put your radiator in the front of the engine. I have mine in the back and It will start heating at about 65 mph. I have an extra fan that I can run all the time when it is too hot. If you are running 50 to 55 the automatic thermostate fan will hold the temp in check, but any faster and the temp comes up. The outside temp don't seem to have a great effect on the temp. I am sure what is happening is the air flow through the radiator and the air flow over and around the trike is creating a vacume at the rear of the trike and preventing the air flow through the radiator. I only run around 60 to 70 anyway so the extra cooling fan works well. I would also say I had a special radiator built with 4 cores and it made no difference. Some day I may change it and put the radiator in the front. when I build my next one I will put 2 goldwing radiators in the front on each side of the pass seat. Oh, And by the way, I really do enjoy my Vee DubAru.

    Just my 2bits worth. Hope it helps, Enjoy, Carl

  2. No this is an engine that the director of the BTW is building a trike around. The one we talked of don't ride good, and I am completly re making it. I have modified a VW rear suspension and have the EA81 engine and trans mounted on it. I almost have it finished. Had to stop on it as I and friend of mine from TN re worked the trike that I ride, and it is close to being finished. Just need to re-wire it. It orignaly had a Bus suspension and I had brake problems and they don't make an after market disk brake set up for the bus, so we cut the bus suspension off and put a bug suspension on. It was quite a job and might have been easier to just build a new trike from scratch. But you know how it is when you have something you enjoy you want to hang on to it. I just hope it rides and drives as nice as it did before the modification. It rode like a fine car and cornered like a sports car.

    When I came home from meeting you I stoped in Columbia Mo and my clutch master cyl went out. Couldn't shift. So I spent the night in Columbia and the next morning I got it started in gear, and shifted it like a big truck (no clutch) and played the lights and made it all the way back to Rolla (96mi) and in to my driveway. Put in a new master and slave and got it going again. It was good to meet you and a fun trip home. Later, Carl

  3. GD, This a question ask by a friend of mine. What do you think? and thanks, Carl

     

    Thought when I made the switch from a VW to a Subaru motor I would be done

    with oil leaks but life wasn`t going to be that easy. Seems mine has a leak

    between the head and the block on both sides. Not a lot but any is too much.

    Seems there is a pocket in the head that allows oil to pool where the push rods

    pass through the head. According to the Haynes manual, there are supposed to

    be two bolts in the head below these pockets but my motor is not drilled for the

    bolts although the bosses are in the castings. Anyway, over time, the oil leaks

    past the head gasket and onto the floor. I have new head gaskets ordered

    hoping they will cure the problem. Has anyone else experienced this problem

    and what did you do to cure it? I have never used a sealer on head gaskets but

    am wondering if, in this case, it might be a good idea since the heads are

    vertical and the oil has no place to drain except out, past the gasket, and

    unfortunately onto the floor

  4. I have bought 2 webers from Redline and they didn't look like the one you have. They mounted purfactly and the linkage looks just like the Subaru. Nothing at all like your pictures. Mounted mine up and have over 4ooo miles and runs like a dream. Just my two cents worth. Hope yours does just as well. Carl

  5. In the process of working on this engine I replaced the head gaskets, and manifold gaskets just in case. I also found the bad water pump at this time. The radiator is brand new. Clue to bad water pump is: The bypass hose that goes normally to the heater and back to the manifold was not getting HOT when I had a faulty water pump. I let that one slip by me. I.E. no movement of coolent durning warm up.

    Trike is a 2001 based on a VW bus rear suspension. It had a 1600 DP engine before I put in the Subaru. Adaptor is from Kennedy eng, and bolted up with no problems. Engine EA-81, Transmission, VW bus, Front end , built by me.

    My daughter and I are planning a ride to Alaska in Aug. I will be rideing this trike and she will be rideing a VW trike I built for her. Thanks for all the interest and help I have received from all you folks. You guys and gals have are the greatest. Carl

  6. The main problem I found was the rebuilt water pump I put on was faulty. The impeller was loose on the shaft. Fixed that with a NEW one not re-built. Next, Not enough air flow through the radiator. Re-mounted the radiator for better air flow, and changed the fans to suck air through the radiator to the rear. It is still not running as cool as I would like. So I mounted an oil cooler from a EA-81 turbo today. Hope to give it a test run tomorrow. I am going to get a 4core radiator made up to try next. If I keep my speed at around 55 to 60 it cools good. Temp stays around 220 on my guage, fan cycles off and on ok. I have a second fan I can turn on manually. At 65 to 70 the temp goes up around 250 and dosen't come down very well when the fan kicks on.

    I am building another trike and I am going to use 2 goldwing radiators. I will mount them forward of the engine with plenty of ventilation. They will be hooked in parallel.

    I really like the subaru engine. It is very smooth and has a great deal more power than the 1600 VW engine I had before. I think that modifing an older tike causes a lot more problems than building one from scratch. Having a trike that is already built I was limited on my radiatior installation. I will try to get some pictures tomorrow. Carl

  7. Yes there is a low pressure switch. I am not sure where it is on your vehical, but it is sometimes on the receiver dryer. Just un-plug the plug and short it out with a paper clip or whatever is handy. Sometimes the plug is on the compressor. It will be in the line somewhere. (low side) Also when you start to charge the system set the controls in the car to hi cool and blower to high.When you start with the system vacumed it will suck almost a can in before you even start the engine. Have fun. Sorry I can't help more.

  8. Durabia, Thanks for your reply. I have a new cap (checked it and it holds 13lbs.) I did a compression test and # 1 & 3 cylinders are about 10 lbs lower than 2 & 4. I haven't been able to get a leak down tester yet to do a leak down test. Cylinders #1 & 3 showed lower compression after the engine was warmed up. # 2 & 4 were the same warm as cold. So I am thinking that maybe the right head has a bad gasket or a crack in an exhaust valve seat. I think I will pull the right head tomorrow and have a look at it. If my findings are inconclusive, than I will get another engine ready to go on the trike.

    Thanks again, Carl

  9. Hi, I have a EA-81 engine I have adapted to a VW transmission. (Trike) I bought the engine from a guy that said it was re-built. I don't doubt that. However I had problems from the start getting it to run properly, and I think the thermostat might have been stuck closed. What I have now is an engine that is over heating. Runs great, idles smooth But blows coolent back out the radiator. It has a new radiator, thermostat, radiator cap and waterpump the cooling fan kicks in at about 200 on the temp gage. I am thinking that I have a blown head gasket or a cracked head. It seems that I have exhaust getting into the waterjacket. I have no water in the oil, or oil in the water. I also have no milkey condesation inside the oil filler. If you leave the radiator cap off the coolent will push out of the radiator as it heats up. Another reason I feel it is getting exhaust in the cooling system.

    Now all that said. How do I tell which head is bad? On the old Olds diesels (V-8) I would un-hook the belts, remove the thermostat housing, start the car up and watch which direction the bubbles came from to tell which head was bad. Tried doing that with the EA-81 and couldn't see any bubbles. But after it warmed up good coolent filled the intake an gushed out. So any one have any other ideas?

    Thanks in advance, Carl

  10. Thanks to everyone who responded. I am going to check if I can shift it through the gears. Also I think that these transmissions came from EA-81 engines. I bought the trans and a couple of years later I bought all the engines that the trans came from. What he had was a bunch of JDM stuff.

    thanks again, Carl

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