Tsuriman

OK first thing. Subies are tough SOBs. I have been driving with this bad axle close to a year, not driving over 55 for most of it. BUT All 4 boots on the drive axles were shot. 2 joints with brown grease and So much play but still held up!! so cool. I did the job at my brothers place. he has a lift, This job would be bugger on a garage floor. Lots of PB BLaster is a necessity. Here is the processes in its basics. Lifted the car just a bit. cracked the nuts on the axles wiht a 3/4 socket wrench and a 4ft cheater. Lifted to remove the wheels. Removed nut on the ball joint to drop the lower conrol arm. you need to loosen the bolt on the top of the ball joint. You see the pics online and in the Haynes book with the screwdriver pointed at the gap, but you got to ram that big screw driver up north till the ball joint gap opens up and drop with minimal pressure but still takes some god awful pressure.We used some construction pry bars. First side we had 2 250+ guys hanging and pulling, with no luck. But the pb blaster and the correct technique popped it off in no time. We used the pointy end of the pry bar under the bolt holes and the lower arm to pop it. This is probably the hardest part of the job. The second came off so easy with the rigth technique. Then remove the pin from the axel. We cut off a screw driver for the driver side but the pass side takes a little more work. We rigged a cut off screw driver with a 1/4 nut and a 1/4 extension to make it happen (when you do it you will see how it works). From pics posted you dont have to do it from above. There are 2 points if you have the car lifted, there is a gap between a fork in the exhaust and between the exhaust and the floor boards that will allow removal and install of the pin, but we had the luxury of working under a lift. we used 1/4 in screw driver and extensions to make it happen. Removal of the cv axel itself isnt too bad. Getting the axel out of the hub was tricky at first. Atfirst we we pumped on a wrench with a 4 foot cheater on a bolt on axel pusher to try to push it out, it worked but.... The second was so much easier. Just pb blast it for a while the bang it with a brass shaft and a 16# sledge and it was out in a few seconds. Install was a snap. grease all the connections before you put it together, makes life so easy! Honestly its a tough job. If you have the space, ingenuity and tools. Its an easy job. I wouldnt do it on the ground. If you want more info let me know. I am a little buzzed right now, regardless some of it doesnt make sense but I would be happy to help anyone out doing the project. PM me with ?s Ryan

Thanks guys, I am going to replace it. I am trying to wrap my head around where to buy it. A couple of searches lead to some great write-ups. It appears that the Subaru dealer axle is rebuilt by Caredone for $179 and it looks like the Duralast is rebuilt/new? by Caredone as well for $60. Im not saying what you guys and other threads say about the aftermarket parts is bad / wrong but what gives? edit: Actually AZ has a Cardone CV axle as well as the Duralast axle on thier website.

Should there be any play? It is not tight. Prolly close to 1/4 in of play side to side.

The boot on the driver side CV axel is ripped and the axel itself has a pretty good play. I have had only one symptom that concerns me. At speeds over 65 sometimes we get a shake or a shimmy in the front end. Sometimes so bad we can hardly drive. Otherwise everything seems tip top. Could this be the CV axel? Thanks

Update. DONE and done. Runs great, turned the key and it purred. Thanks for the advice. Tsuriman

Well I figured it out. I was just a dumb rump roast that couldnt figure it out and well I had a coolant line in the wrong place. So if anyone searches and finds this thread. The "C" shaped hose of the IAC connects to the main coolant rail between the intake and block, the same that the upper rad hose connects to. Tsuriman

I cant for the life of me figure out where one of the coolant lines coming off the IAC connects to. If you're looking at the IAC from the pass side of the car there is the large air hose in the center, a short "S" shaped coolant line going to the throttle body on the left and the @5-6" "C" shaped line coming off the right side. I cannot figure out where that right side "C" shaped hose connects to. I wouldnt ask if I hadnt spent the last hour looking. TIA Ryan 97 Outback Legacy, 2.5l

Thats interesting I've never researched it. But the guy I bought from must also have a nice supply of Japanese products like spark plug wires and oil filters. Cars in Japan have to go through an "inspection/overhaul" called "shakken" easily costing US$1000 or more. A lot of money even in Japan. Those fees increase with the age of the car. The engines are worthless in Japan. That is one of the reasons I was so interested in the engine. Anyway, update! I got the heads off. I cannot image EVER taking the heads off with the engine still in the car. It was a tricky job, even with my brother (the more gear head of us) helping and the engine on a nice engine stand. Understanding TDC and all the sprocket alignments was confusing. Even after looking at the old engine it still didnt make total since of how the timing belt and spocket makes are meant to line up but with everything marked clearly I am sure we can get her back together without much concern. Removing the camshaft sprockets was a bit of a challenge. The head bolts finally came off with a 4 ft breaker bar. In the end the engine looked good. There was some strange residue in the drivers side cylinders, almost like a wet oil or creamy coolant. The cylinder walls looked like new with the honing marks still clear and even. The HG wasnt blown, looked perfect acually. The only concern was the burnt oil smell. Now all we have to do is rebuild, install and hope she runs. Thanks Guys. Tsuriman

uh huh. Thanks for the thoughts guys. Ill go with my gut and replace them.

Your right about the driving habits. I lived there for a few years and owned a car for a couple of months... it never left the parking space, so we got rid of it. There could be two thoughts is all. 1. Change it cause we know there are issues with it. Be safe. 2. Dont touch it if it isnt broke. You could open a bag of worms on what might be nothing.

I think the year is a 96. Is there a way to check the stamped numbers? They claim @ 60K miles. I lived in Japan I'd be suprised if there were that many. Yes there is a warranty. I believe the short block and only against mechanical defects. Not HG. Thats what Im trying to decide.

Im getting ready to drop in the new motor in my wifes 97 Legacy Outback. I was wondering if anyone knows of issues with the head gaskets on the Japanese built engines? Same? Not? Would you replace the HG on it anyway? Thanks Tsuriman