dtaffe

Thanks for the input. When I told the shop I was flatbedding it to the dealer and probably needed a new head gasket (the dealer quoted $800 for one side, $1800 for both...) he suggested I put a used engine in instead. I initially thought he might be trying to keep the business for himself, but based on your reply above, maybe that's not a bad idea? What would I expect to pay to have the engine replaced?

Thanks to everyone for the advice. Here's the plan: First thing is to move it from the current garage (picked by emergency and location,) since they seem at a total loss. I had decent luck fixing the viscous coupling at a local SB dealer (they couldn't diagnose it, but you-all did, and when I brought it, they agreed and fixed it. I'll suggest to them that I'm concerned it's the HG, based on comments here and symptoms/lack of improvement with a new thermostat. On a side-note, it sounds as though this is going to cost somewhere between $1500-2000. In the past year I've had to spend about $2500 on repairs (viscous coupling, plugs/wire/coil, other odds and ends), and I'm now waiting for the next shoe to drop. Assuming the engine hasn't cracked from the blown HG, how much life can I expect from this car, and what's a reasonable amount to spend per year on repairs (unfortunately, I don't have the skills, tools, space or time to do them myself, which ups the cost)? I'll let you know what I find in the end. Danny

I looked at the engine shortly before reaching the garage and noticed coolant on the top of the overflow tank and some under the car (< a quarter cup, not actively dripping). The overflow tank was initially quite full (and looked dirty), but then it dropped closer to empty and I was able to fill it (nothing more had leaked out underneath.) When I asked the mechanic about any leaks, he said they hadn't seen any.

My engine overheated this morning on the way to work, ironically in subzero weather (99 outback wagon, 120,000 miles). About 10 minutes after I started it, within 2 miles of driving the temp guage climbed all the way to the top. I pulled over and idled, and it dropped back to normal (mid-guage), within 15 seconds, while the engine was running. However, about 10 miles later it started to creep up again, and I had to nurse the car for about 5 miles, coasting as much as possible, even shutting it off for a minute here and there to keep it from overheating. I brought it to a garage around the corner from work, and they said it needed a new thermostat and a coolant flush (seems reasonable. They said one of the radiator hoses was hot, but the other cold, thermostat wasn't opening...) While replacing it, they say the looked in the water pump and that the fins are fine, it spins "a little too easily" but seemed to be tied into the drive belts. They put a new thermostat in, but that didn't work, so they guessed it was a dud and tried another. At that point it worked while in the garage (both hoses became hot, engine temp stayed normal), but when they took it out for a test drive, it started acting up again. When he brought it back, he rechecked and one hose was now cold again. The mechanic is at a loss (not my usual guy, but I'm stuck 20 miles from home). Any thoughts? Help! Danny

As part of the prior investigation of this noise, they had previously replaced the fluid in the rear differential. At that time they had swabbed it with a magnet ("looking for metal filings to indicate wear"???) and hadn't gotten anything. The issue of leaking rear differential seals was raised at a recent oil change by Jiffy lube (please no flames, I now know better; I'll never go back there...) so it may be nothing. At the time the fluid was replaced (mid winter), it was full and "looked fine," nothing on the magnet-sweeper. I've not noticed a particular noise from the rear-end. The only noise issue I've had is the torque bind. The $950 quote was our local subaru dealer (Ed Reilly Subaru, Concord NH). I bought the car new from them and they've done most of the prior work on it. I've had no specific complaints previously, a recent CEL/EBD code issue not withstanding (they basically punted after changing plug wires - cylinders #3&4 misfire - P3030/P0304). I'm thinking of calling a couple of other local mechanics, maybe the next-closest subaru dealer to get a price quote.

Thanks for everyone's input so far. I've spent a good bit of time reading my new Haynes manual and searching/reading this forum. I'm now pretty convinced I have torque bind and have a couple of follow-up questions. My car is a 99 outback legacy wagon with 115k miles, 5-speed manual. The symptoms are classic torque bind: thunking on maximally-tight radius turns (left and right), worse in warm weather or after driving enough to heat the car/tranny. I thought it was front-end, but a mechanic I brought it to thought rear-end. He checked the wheels, axles, boots front and rear and said everything looked good. Tires are new <10k miles. At one point in the past, though, I know I had pressure issues (improved by sanding the rims, now they don't leak.) He said I'd need a new rear differential, "and by the way, the clutch has only 12-18 months left." Now I'm thinking maybe he meant I'd need a new clutch pack/VC, and a rear differential; I've subsequently noticed oil-spray on the rear differential - maybe needs seals? I called a local dealer today, who quoted $950 for the VC including parts/labor. This sounds like a decent ballpark price? If the rear differential seals are leaking, can I replace just the seals, or should I expect to replace the differential itself, and if so, what are the relative costs? Thanks

Sorry to be a dunce, but anything more specific on "swap the wires?" Say I swap 1 for 2 and 3 for 4; if it's the wires, I should get misfire messages on 1 and 2. Right? What if the coil's the problem? Would I still get a 3&4 misfire reading? I looked on the NGK website for plugs, and they have several that seem compatible, ranging from $2.50 per plug to $11.50 (and one set that splits the difference.) I'd guess the most expensive are the best, is that what I should get?

Ok, so a couple of things. I checked the codes. Sure enough, I got P0303 and P0304 (#3 and #4 cylinder misfire, according to the reader.) I also picked up a can of seafoam (I need to figure out where the vacuum intake hose is) and will try this tomorrow. I also checked the clutch (a recommendation from cartalk.com) by trying a standing start in 3rd gear @2500 RPM. The car bucked and stalled (I didn't feather the clutch to "force" it to work). Maybe the clutch is ok? I probably need to find a good repair manual for this car. What publishers do people recommend? Chiltons? Other?

I have a 99 Outback Wagon with 115k miles. It has developed a low-pitched non-metallic (I think?) thunking noise in the rear end, worse in warm weather, which occurs only on tight-radius turns, such as turning into my driveway or a parking spot, never while driving down the road. It occurs with both left and right turns. The thunking frequency is speed-dependent (faster thunk at higher speed), but the pitch is not. My mechanic (trusted) took a couple of tries to diagnose it (initially intermittent, always seems better when I bring it in,) but feels it's the rear differential. He's estimating $2k-$3k (big range, I know) to replace the differential. The last time I had it in (a month or so ago) he also noted that the clutch is starting to go (intermittent difficulty getting into first/reverse while stopped, decreased throw distance on the cluth pedal.) As a final issue, my CEL has come on. Took it to the dealer, who said it was a spark issue, changed the wires (but not the plugs, which he said looked fine.) No better, he said to ignore it; they "splashed water on the coil and got no short circuit", so that probably wasn't it, and I could end up spending a lot of money without finding it. The engine runs fine (for an engine with 115k miles) although my gas mileage seems to have dipped a bit (275 miles per tank instead of 320 miles per tank.) At what point, given all that needs to be done, am I throwing bad money after good? Does the thunking diagnosis sound reasonable, and what should I expect to pay for repairs? How would you go about addressing the check engine light? (I'm guessing I need to get the exact code as a starting point.) Another forum suggested using seafoam; one poster here seemed to have engine/emissions problems as a result, although the majority seem impressed by the product. Help!?! Danny