ts johnson

I feel like it's a melting wire or something. There is a leak in the oil pan seal but that's not new and the inner cv is fine.. Is there a fuse that melts away slowly? It is definately plastic melting but there is no visible clues:rolleyes: It's a very strong smell when standing beside the car but hard to locate inside the engine compartment. Bazaar. Thanks

When I'm standing by the drivers door I smell the melting plastic. When I open the hood and smell in different areas it's hard to track it's origin. Any ideas of what this might be. There are no symptoms otherwise[ ie temp guage is fine and warning lights aren't on].T Brand new this morning.Out of blue.Thanks

Thank you everyone for your help; it is greatly appreciated. I will get under it soon and hunt down the leak. It's a little icy right now. How much coolant should the cooling enigine suck back in? It's only taking back like 2 inches out of the overflow. Could this be any indication of a lack of proper vacuum in the system? Trev

I've never noticed the heater blowing cold. I Don't reallylook at the coolant enough to know if it has risen "suddenly". I do look at it weekly though. I dont know maybe the very beginning of a head gasket leak? It has 79800 miles and never a hg replacement to my knowledge. Trev

The level is consistant. The temp never runs hot I watch it like a hawk. It does have a faint egg-fart smell when I get out of it. T

I didn't mention that they are the whole length of the vehicle. Ending with the muffler. Is it possible the coolant is getting inside the exhaust system?

In the fresh snow beneath my car there seems to be intermittent antifreeze drips. They're light green and they appear to drip in 4 places along the exhaust??? What could be happening???Yikes.

Won't Autozone pull that code for free? You might not want to ingnore the warning of a possibly more costly problem down the road. 10$ in fluid now or 2000$ in trans repair when that light decides it want to stay on all the time.

That's bazaar! Mine just started. I tried to shift without using the break and when I pushed the break.....the relay popped and has been making it's "happy noise" ever since. I thought it might be an unhappy noise.

Here's a new one. When I depress the thumb button on the shift lever I can hear the relay behind the mirror control. Does this mean the relay is about to crap out?

Good stuff Blitz!Thanks. What's real fast?. I usually average 75mph on the highway.Too much? As for themal loss...maybe if I back some more mouse poop and nutshells between the manifold and the block she'll hold the heat a little better. I wish these cars had some sort of swith to deactivate the AWD when not needed! Thanks again!!

Thanks for the great info Blitz. I told the salesman that the denso website spec'd the ik20 and he insisted on the 16. "I've sold these to alot of people with Subaru's and they work great!" he said. I'm GLAD I didn't throw em right in. In researching [spark plugs] in the search area I started to feel like the iridium were't the answer to my fuel ecom prob. Do you have any suggestion as to what type of plug will give the 2.5 the best fuel economy??Thanksalot

I searched "ik16" and found few specifics. I know some of you have used the ik20 with success. The salesman at autozone insisted the ik16's were plenty so that's what I bought. Anyone have experience's with the 16's??

Just bought denso double plat plugs for the 98 leg out. Are these comparable to the iridiums?

Will Techron clean more effectively if it's mixed with say 9 gallons of unleaded instead of the recommended 12? Do the 2.5 ltr. boxer engines like the higher octane fuels?