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MTX sub

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About MTX sub

  • Birthday 10/13/1974

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  • Location
    Crestline California
  • Interests
    golf, landcruisers,
  • Occupation
    teacher
  • Biography
    yeaha!

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  1. Well dealer wants 75 bucks just to pull the codes and diagnose. The 98's and newer do not use the BPT so that is for sure not my problem. My dad has even had trouble with strange shifting every once in awhile. Has anyone heard why? Bad tranny? I have heard that some people have had transmission replacements under warrenty. What was faulty?
  2. It is an expensive little bugger and the best/ only way I know to replace it is to remove the outer tie rod with a puller or pickle fork and then take off the tie rod. Clean and mark the position of the tierod to the shaft and count the number of turns to remove! Then you can slip off the boot and replace. The stock clip is not very good at securing the boot in the little chanel in the shaft. I used a zip tie to hold mine on. Hope you are not having noise from the rack! That could be expensive. My boot had slipped down over the inner tie rod and started making a groan going over bumps. What sound is it making? You can cleanout the inner tie rod and pack with grease with the boot off. It should not be too bad of a job if you take your time. Save a bundle over the dealership!
  3. Drove to church .5 miles and CEL was on. It sat in the parking lot for 1 1/2 hours. Started it up and no lights. Drove fine both times. Can someone give me more information on the Back Pressure Transducer? Do 2000 have them? Where is it located? Just what does it do? In a previous thread a CEL light problem in a 97 Outback produced similar transmission dificulties, but they did not report any AT Oil Temp light illumination. Did 97 Outbacks have the AT Temp light?
  4. Well I have seen Threads on CEL, but my situation is different in that occasionally the AT Temp light of my 2000 Outback with 100,00 miles goes on and the transmission begins to have very rough shifts. The Check Engine Light came on Thursday and then later in the day the AT Temp light illuminated. Stopped and turned off the engine and the CEL stayed on but AT Temp light went off. Drove car and it acted fine. Pulled up to the curb to let my wife drop something off at work and the engine died. As it sputtered it was like the I left the clutch in on a manual. I did notice that the AT Temp light flickered before the engine stalled. Started the car up and all lights were out no CEL no AT Temp!?!? Car drove fine home. Next morning start up the car and the AT Temp light is blinking and the car was just started! CEL is on too! Put it in reverse and PLUGH! Engine stalls just like the torque converter is locked up and it acts like the clutch is in. Restart the car, no AT Temp, but CEL on. Transmission shifts strange. Stop driving and use another car to get to work. Come back after work and CEL is on. If AT Temp light is on when I start it seems that this is a faulty something or other because thier is no way in 50 degree temp that the car can start up with over heated fluid. Sounds similar to the BPT problem of CEL Code PO400 but the AT Temp has me worried. Any Ideas?
  5. My dad had logged on and I posted on his computer previously as Alan Phillips. Dealership said that they did not have the stop leak and only had the recent memo. I asked about my mileage being 96 thousand and the guy seemed to feel that I would not get the extention to 100k. I asked him if I would then have to pay for the glorified stop leak aka conditioner and he was not sure. Took my name and number down and said he would get back to me.
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