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BoostedLegacy

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Posts posted by BoostedLegacy

  1. I seem to recall something about the legacy turbo's not haveing a bleeder port for the top of the radiator?? Anyway a lot of folks pour the coolant into the upper radiator hose to back fill the engine and then fill the radiator. You could fill the heater core this way as well to make sure each part of the cooling system is nearly full before tightening it all up. On the non-turbo radiators there's a plastic air-bleed that is removed from the top of the radiator on the passenger side (near the upper hose) to facilitate air removal while filling.....

     

    The closed-deck nature of the EJ22T block makes them harder to fill as the coolant passages are smaller.

     

    GD

     

    I will tell my friend this information so he knows knows. I've tried the ramps already and it didn't work

     

    I'll tell him Monday and see if I can just work on it there.

  2. Hey guys.

     

    I haven't been on in a while. Been pretty busy with school.

     

    Anyway, I recently had the Turbo only coolant reservoir on my Legacy break and i replaced the hose and got a WRX reservoir.

     

    It worked great for two weeks and then I blew another hose going to the turbo. Actually it was the plastic spacer in the middle of those hose connecting the turbo/reservoir.

     

    I made a new hose using brass fittings and did a much cleaner job this time through, however I can't get it to take coolant now. I replaced the thermostat and still will not take coolant.

     

    I finally took it to a friend who has a shop just because hes giving me a good deal, i trust his work, and i dont have the tools or shop to fix it. He said he let the car run for a while and his conclusion is that there is a major air bubble in the system and he says its most likely in the heater core and that hes going to have to get to it when he has more time. He said while he highly doubts it, it could be a blown head gasket.

     

    Any suggestions on whats going on??

  3. and half the time it will unlock, the other time you can't get the key to turn and it wont unlock.

     

    The lock cylinder has a bit of metal in there that is about as thick as two Kleenexes, it breaks, leaving you with what you see. It is lock cylinder time (mine is the same way, I have a new lock cylinder, just haven't gotten around to it)

     

    Ok thank you. I will look into getting one

  4. Yea. To be honest, I don't think they will be capable to do this project. I'm just going to have to wait until college ends and get a different car (for transportation) and do it myself without it getting in the way of getting to work or whatever is in my life by then. Not because they can't, because it would be really hard for them to find all the parts, etc. I know they wouldn't be up for it.

     

    So I know they made a version of my car with a 5 spd. I'm guessing there just INSANELY hard to find?? I really miss having a 5 spd. :( :(

     

    I have to say though; I've owned a few automatics, and there usually sluggish, but this one gets right with it. If I was to stick with an auto and do some serious upgrades would this tranny withstand?? Its not that I'm to lazy to do it, but I'm thinking on practicality. If its hardly going to make a difference maybe its best to keep the auto.

     

    It still is shifting pretty good. I recently changed the fluid and found some minute metal particles which is a definite sign of wear. None the less it still shifts perfect and has no problem going into gear etc. This is really puzzling me though...what to do, what to do

     

    Thanks for your input guys, and for listening to me ramble

  5. There was an excellent writeup on it around a while ago, but I'm not sure exactly where it was. I looked into it myself a while back, and it seems like it would be more cost effective just to buy a new car. I hope that whoever is doing it knows what they are getting into.

     

    hah, i dont know about that. I've never seen another Legacy Turbo that wasn't a rally car. And the last one i saw in the paper was selling for almost 6k. There a RARE item up here. Secondly I love this car so much that I'm probably going to be spending a lot more on it than its worth (not planning to get rid of it)

     

    I will look into this more carefully though before doing this swap

  6. you want more power...hmmm... a bov isn't going to give you that much gain in anything with that car.

    You should waste your money on bigger ingectors, water/meth injection, UP/DWN pipes, port out everything, bigger turbo, FMIC, and finnally get it pro tuned :rolleyes:

    you'll be destroying those wrx kiddies :clap:

    but that stuff is expensive... you could just get it tuned as is and yield a huge performance gain.

     

    Well like I was saying. All thats going to happen when I finish school.

  7. But not like you would expect. Of course not! That wouldnt be like me at all:rolleyes:

    92 SVX..............with a tranny problem, of course:rolleyes:

    DSC000671.JPG

    DSC00072.JPG

    Other than the tranny issue, its in pretty good shape. Has high miles tho, about 238K. And the interior is very dirty.

    tranny needs the transfer clutch extention. It got broke/cracked when the front u-joints went out. So I know where theres a few Leg trannies in the Lynnwood PAP I cant scavenge one off of. Should cost me $26 to fix:-p

    Got the car for $700:headbang:

     

    That is an absolute amazing deal. Even with the high miles, tranny issue, 700 is a steal!

  8. ^^^ no kidding i like my stock stereo so far.. just plug my Ipod into the aux imput and im good to go. the system for such an old car really dosn't suck... i did have a newer cd player and it really made the stock speakers shine.

     

    but back to the topic. when you installed the after market speakers did you notice that the factory spearkers have that crazy spacer deal to bring the speaker away from the door. I know my 91 has them and they are part of the original speaker.. without thoes i could totaly see the speakers not fitting well and or rattling.

     

    The problem was the spacers that came with the speakers. The holes didn't line up all the way around, and at the time I didn't have a drill or the time so I just lined up as many as I could and called it good (I just wanted music because the originals were blown completely). They were fine until you turned them up and obviously there going to rattle if there not held in on all sides. FINALLY I HAD THE TIME AND THE DRILL TO DO IT CORRECTLY, but then I got the idea of putting them in the back in the sub box. I know that sounds funny but if you saw the box you would see that there perfect in the box. The clarity is SO much better, and the box is large enough that there isn't interference with the subwoofer (the box covers the entire width of my trunk and sits directly behind my rear seat of which i always have folded down). The speakers are also meant to be run of the deck. I checked with the salesman first before I bought them. There was two reference speakers there, and he pointed me to the set that didn't need an amp. So I'm sorry for not being clear enough. I'm basically looking for a decent tweeter set to place in the front. After some thinking, I may not need to put speakers in the doors.

  9. Umm... :-\

     

    Ok, the sound quality probably didn't sound great because References are not known for their mid-bass. You need to sound deaden your door to get the most out of ANY speaker, but especially Infinity speakers.

     

    If the speakers were new, the rattling had to be installer error. How you held that against them, I do not know. But it must have sounded better than coming out of the trunk. :rolleyes: And how in the world did you mount them in a sub box?? We are talking about 6 1/2" speakers, right. Subwoofers may rattle when installed in the front doors regardless... :lol:

     

     

    and thats exactly why i installed them in the box and want to put something different up front :) They sound excellent in the box, i just need something up front...

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