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Posts posted by BoostedLegacy
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I seem to recall something about the legacy turbo's not haveing a bleeder port for the top of the radiator?? Anyway a lot of folks pour the coolant into the upper radiator hose to back fill the engine and then fill the radiator. You could fill the heater core this way as well to make sure each part of the cooling system is nearly full before tightening it all up. On the non-turbo radiators there's a plastic air-bleed that is removed from the top of the radiator on the passenger side (near the upper hose) to facilitate air removal while filling.....
The closed-deck nature of the EJ22T block makes them harder to fill as the coolant passages are smaller.
GD
I will tell my friend this information so he knows knows. I've tried the ramps already and it didn't work
I'll tell him Monday and see if I can just work on it there.
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that outback looked pretty cool at night.
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The cars seems to run perfectly fine besides overheating.
Still. What are the chances of it being a head gasket??
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Hey guys.
I haven't been on in a while. Been pretty busy with school.
Anyway, I recently had the Turbo only coolant reservoir on my Legacy break and i replaced the hose and got a WRX reservoir.
It worked great for two weeks and then I blew another hose going to the turbo. Actually it was the plastic spacer in the middle of those hose connecting the turbo/reservoir.
I made a new hose using brass fittings and did a much cleaner job this time through, however I can't get it to take coolant now. I replaced the thermostat and still will not take coolant.
I finally took it to a friend who has a shop just because hes giving me a good deal, i trust his work, and i dont have the tools or shop to fix it. He said he let the car run for a while and his conclusion is that there is a major air bubble in the system and he says its most likely in the heater core and that hes going to have to get to it when he has more time. He said while he highly doubts it, it could be a blown head gasket.
Any suggestions on whats going on??
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I took care of it. Used a WRX one.
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the plastic coolant tank that goes on the top of the engine?
Yes thats correct. Its on the right side of the engine bolted on to the intake manifold.
A line then runs directly from the tank and into the turbo
I need on asap though, and if no one has it local I'm gonna use a WRX one and make it work (aarons has one)
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Hey. I live in Chehalis, WA.
I have a 91 Subaru Legacy Sport. The fill up tank cracked.
I called the dealership and they want like 150.00. Aarons auto didn't have one
Anyone have one of these??
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I have to work. Sorry man
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I'll try and make it if the money situation looks good. Probably a 50/50 chance right now.
I'll add your number to my cell phone and let you know a week in advance. I live about 45 minutes south of you.
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and half the time it will unlock, the other time you can't get the key to turn and it wont unlock.
The lock cylinder has a bit of metal in there that is about as thick as two Kleenexes, it breaks, leaving you with what you see. It is lock cylinder time (mine is the same way, I have a new lock cylinder, just haven't gotten around to it)
Ok thank you. I will look into getting one
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91 Legacy Sport. Put the key in drivers side door and turn to unlock and half the time it will unlock, the other time you can't get the key to turn and it wont unlock. I have to open the trunk and pop the back door lock with a stick.
Any ideas? I've gone through the wiring but haven't found anything out of the ordinary. (im probably missing something)
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Yea. To be honest, I don't think they will be capable to do this project. I'm just going to have to wait until college ends and get a different car (for transportation) and do it myself without it getting in the way of getting to work or whatever is in my life by then. Not because they can't, because it would be really hard for them to find all the parts, etc. I know they wouldn't be up for it.
So I know they made a version of my car with a 5 spd. I'm guessing there just INSANELY hard to find?? I really miss having a 5 spd. :(
I have to say though; I've owned a few automatics, and there usually sluggish, but this one gets right with it. If I was to stick with an auto and do some serious upgrades would this tranny withstand?? Its not that I'm to lazy to do it, but I'm thinking on practicality. If its hardly going to make a difference maybe its best to keep the auto.
It still is shifting pretty good. I recently changed the fluid and found some minute metal particles which is a definite sign of wear. None the less it still shifts perfect and has no problem going into gear etc. This is really puzzling me though...what to do, what to do
Thanks for your input guys, and for listening to me ramble
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There was an excellent writeup on it around a while ago, but I'm not sure exactly where it was. I looked into it myself a while back, and it seems like it would be more cost effective just to buy a new car. I hope that whoever is doing it knows what they are getting into.
hah, i dont know about that. I've never seen another Legacy Turbo that wasn't a rally car. And the last one i saw in the paper was selling for almost 6k. There a RARE item up here. Secondly I love this car so much that I'm probably going to be spending a lot more on it than its worth (not planning to get rid of it)
I will look into this more carefully though before doing this swap
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So right now I'm restoring a Jeep for an auto shop. They said they would be willing to do a full tranny swap in trade for the labor on the Jeep. Anything they should know about this swap? (1991 Subaru Legacy Turbo AWD)
This mostly involves parts they will need. The mechanic seems to be good with Subaru's.
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Hey Turbone. Looks like we were in luck. I only payed 750 for my Legacy Turbo...
The guy thought it was having serious issues....which turned out to be a vacuum line unplugged from the intake manifold....lol
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Thats pretty weird. That sounds like your not getting enough power. Try running some interior lights, radio, or something else to draw power and see if it has the same effect.
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you want more power...hmmm... a bov isn't going to give you that much gain in anything with that car.
You should waste your money on bigger ingectors, water/meth injection, UP/DWN pipes, port out everything, bigger turbo, FMIC, and finnally get it pro tuned
you'll be destroying those wrx kiddies
but that stuff is expensive... you could just get it tuned as is and yield a huge performance gain.
Well like I was saying. All thats going to happen when I finish school.
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But not like you would expect. Of course not! That wouldnt be like me at all:rolleyes:
92 SVX..............with a tranny problem, of course:rolleyes:
Other than the tranny issue, its in pretty good shape. Has high miles tho, about 238K. And the interior is very dirty.
tranny needs the transfer clutch extention. It got broke/cracked when the front u-joints went out. So I know where theres a few Leg trannies in the Lynnwood PAP I cant scavenge one off of. Should cost me $26 to fix:-p
Got the car for $700:headbang:
That is an absolute amazing deal. Even with the high miles, tranny issue, 700 is a steal!
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cool. Seems pretty clean to me
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never mind, lets just forget about it
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^^^ no kidding i like my stock stereo so far.. just plug my Ipod into the aux imput and im good to go. the system for such an old car really dosn't suck... i did have a newer cd player and it really made the stock speakers shine.
but back to the topic. when you installed the after market speakers did you notice that the factory spearkers have that crazy spacer deal to bring the speaker away from the door. I know my 91 has them and they are part of the original speaker.. without thoes i could totaly see the speakers not fitting well and or rattling.
The problem was the spacers that came with the speakers. The holes didn't line up all the way around, and at the time I didn't have a drill or the time so I just lined up as many as I could and called it good (I just wanted music because the originals were blown completely). They were fine until you turned them up and obviously there going to rattle if there not held in on all sides. FINALLY I HAD THE TIME AND THE DRILL TO DO IT CORRECTLY, but then I got the idea of putting them in the back in the sub box. I know that sounds funny but if you saw the box you would see that there perfect in the box. The clarity is SO much better, and the box is large enough that there isn't interference with the subwoofer (the box covers the entire width of my trunk and sits directly behind my rear seat of which i always have folded down). The speakers are also meant to be run of the deck. I checked with the salesman first before I bought them. There was two reference speakers there, and he pointed me to the set that didn't need an amp. So I'm sorry for not being clear enough. I'm basically looking for a decent tweeter set to place in the front. After some thinking, I may not need to put speakers in the doors.
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Does it send a chill up your spine?
nipper
oh yes...definitely lol
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Umm... :-\
Ok, the sound quality probably didn't sound great because References are not known for their mid-bass. You need to sound deaden your door to get the most out of ANY speaker, but especially Infinity speakers.
If the speakers were new, the rattling had to be installer error. How you held that against them, I do not know. But it must have sounded better than coming out of the trunk. And how in the world did you mount them in a sub box?? We are talking about 6 1/2" speakers, right. Subwoofers may rattle when installed in the front doors regardless...
and thats exactly why i installed them in the box and want to put something different up front They sound excellent in the box, i just need something up front...
Coolant problem
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Hey guys. Tomorrow I'm going to start working on the Subaru while its there at the shop.
I really can't afford to wait for him anymore so at least it will be in the dry and I'll have tools.
I'll keep documenting what is going on and posting it up starting late tommorow night.