fixitguy50

Is Subaru super three bond 1215 used to reassemble the case ? If not what do I need to use ?

Well the 2.5 had a crack in the block. So, I'm still looking. I'm have never bought an engine from a salvage yard. I've got a 2.2 to go see that's supposed to have 100K and a 2.5 with unknown mileage and still in the car. So, do I just install it, change the oil and filter and crank it up or what ? Most of the engines I've seen so far have corrosion and oil spray on the intake manifold. Is the corrosion normal or an indication of road salt or a coolent leak ?

So, I found a 2.5 SOHC with valve problems. If the block is in good shape, can I use it with 2.2 heads ?

The cylinders are out of round with the front to back (thrust) measurement greater at the top. The cylinders are scuffed from piston slap and the pistons are 20 thousandths smaller than standard. The cost of oversized pistons and having the cylinders bored is the problem. A set if piston is about $600 unless you can steer me to a good parts source. I would rather rebuild, just don't know if I can justify it.

So, now that I measured the pistons and cylinders I'm looking for a replacement engine. You've recommended an EJ251. How about a EJ25d or other engines ? I't seems most the used subarus for sale have 200K and engine noise.

So, I've got my block fully disassembled and found carbon deposits at the base of the cylinder walls, inside the pistons, on the piston skirts & tops and the oil rings were cemented into place with carbon. I had piston slap and some knocking that wasn't going away at idle. The cylinders still have cross-hatches so I'm thinking the collapsed oil rings and clogged oil holes in the piston skirts and carbon deposits on the skirts may have caused the slap. Am I deluded ? What do I need to check ? The main and rod bearings are worn and have some scrapping from dirt or carbon. What should I check ?

I found 18 bolts, 10 on left side, 6 large bolts on R side, one in bellhousing on R side and one in front pan area on R side. After I scooted the block to the edge of the workbench a firm blow with hammer and wooded block did the trick. There's a pin in the left front side that was sticking. So, there's heavy carbon deposits on the pistons and valves. The rod journals of the pistons look like they got hot and there is wear on the upper side of the piston pin bushings. I can see scratches on the crank journals, but can't feel them. I debating buying a mic set so I can know how bad it is. Looking at the heads, all the valves will probably need guides Knurled or replaced and maybe some valves. The front #1 exhaust valve closed when I took off the rocker shafts, so I guessing carbon deposits or worn guides were holding it open. Advice on what to check ?

I'm having trouble splitting the case. All the bolts shown in the manual (for phase I EJ22) plus one on the back of the engine and another in the front of the pan have been removed. Any suggestions on how to get the case apart. I have the right side up and have tried a mallet and a hammer with a wood block to no avail.

So, I got the engine out and the heads taken off. Exhaust valves in right side head do not close fully and heavy carbon on top of all four pistons. I still see cross hatch marks on the two cylinder bores with the pistons down. I have an old Haynes manual for up to 1998, but this is a 1999 2.2 EJ22. Anybody know if the specs are the same or where I can get a good manual for a 1999 Legacy engine ?

Thanks guys, your awesome!

Why do you say to use the crank, cam sprockets and manifold from the 2.2 on the 251 ? What if the crank on the 2.2 needs replacing ?

So what the difference between a EJ 22 and an EJ251/3 ? Same displacement ? Will the computer work with the different engine ? Same crank, pistons and heads ?

OK, so I think I patched the EJ22 as long as I can, plugs have soot coating them, it's been banging for 18 months, the compression is low on cylinders 3 & 4, and its got 280K. So, who can tell me where I can get an EJ22 for a 1999-2001 Legacy with decent mileage in the Carolinas or on the net ?

I checked the valve lash about a year ago and tweeked it a little (.002-.003) on a couple of valves. It has solid lifters, so that's not the problem. I don't think the problem is in the bottom end since the oil pressure is good, the vacuum gauge reading are good, and it doesn't sould like a rod knock.

OK, I put a direct reading pressure gauge in and got 20 psi at hot idle and 75 psi when reveed up. It sitll has piston slap for the first 3-5 minutes of startup and taps continuously. As regular as the noise is I'm wondering about the cam bearings or other worn valve compnents. What's weird is that the noise sounds like it comes out of the engine core, but the oil pressure is hign. Can anyone tell me what they think is going on. Do I need to swap the engine?