fixitguy50

Is Subaru super three bond 1215 used to reassemble the case ? If not what do I need to use ?

Well the 2.5 had a crack in the block. So, I'm still looking. I'm have never bought an engine from a salvage yard. I've got a 2.2 to go see that's supposed to have 100K and a 2.5 with unknown mileage and still in the car. So, do I just install it, change the oil and filter and crank it up or what ? Most of the engines I've seen so far have corrosion and oil spray on the intake manifold. Is the corrosion normal or an indication of road salt or a coolent leak ?

So, I found a 2.5 SOHC with valve problems. If the block is in good shape, can I use it with 2.2 heads ?

The cylinders are out of round with the front to back (thrust) measurement greater at the top. The cylinders are scuffed from piston slap and the pistons are 20 thousandths smaller than standard. The cost of oversized pistons and having the cylinders bored is the problem. A set if piston is about $600 unless you can steer me to a good parts source. I would rather rebuild, just don't know if I can justify it.

So, now that I measured the pistons and cylinders I'm looking for a replacement engine. You've recommended an EJ251. How about a EJ25d or other engines ? I't seems most the used subarus for sale have 200K and engine noise.

So, I've got my block fully disassembled and found carbon deposits at the base of the cylinder walls, inside the pistons, on the piston skirts & tops and the oil rings were cemented into place with carbon. I had piston slap and some knocking that wasn't going away at idle. The cylinders still have cross-hatches so I'm thinking the collapsed oil rings and clogged oil holes in the piston skirts and carbon deposits on the skirts may have caused the slap. Am I deluded ? What do I need to check ? The main and rod bearings are worn and have some scrapping from dirt or carbon. What should I check ?

I found 18 bolts, 10 on left side, 6 large bolts on R side, one in bellhousing on R side and one in front pan area on R side. After I scooted the block to the edge of the workbench a firm blow with hammer and wooded block did the trick. There's a pin in the left front side that was sticking. So, there's heavy carbon deposits on the pistons and valves. The rod journals of the pistons look like they got hot and there is wear on the upper side of the piston pin bushings. I can see scratches on the crank journals, but can't feel them. I debating buying a mic set so I can know how bad it is. Looking at the heads, all the valves will probably need guides Knurled or replaced and maybe some valves. The front #1 exhaust valve closed when I took off the rocker shafts, so I guessing carbon deposits or worn guides were holding it open. Advice on what to check ?

I'm having trouble splitting the case. All the bolts shown in the manual (for phase I EJ22) plus one on the back of the engine and another in the front of the pan have been removed. Any suggestions on how to get the case apart. I have the right side up and have tried a mallet and a hammer with a wood block to no avail.

So, I got the engine out and the heads taken off. Exhaust valves in right side head do not close fully and heavy carbon on top of all four pistons. I still see cross hatch marks on the two cylinder bores with the pistons down. I have an old Haynes manual for up to 1998, but this is a 1999 2.2 EJ22. Anybody know if the specs are the same or where I can get a good manual for a 1999 Legacy engine ?

Thanks guys, your awesome!

Why do you say to use the crank, cam sprockets and manifold from the 2.2 on the 251 ? What if the crank on the 2.2 needs replacing ?

So what the difference between a EJ 22 and an EJ251/3 ? Same displacement ? Will the computer work with the different engine ? Same crank, pistons and heads ?

OK, so I think I patched the EJ22 as long as I can, plugs have soot coating them, it's been banging for 18 months, the compression is low on cylinders 3 & 4, and its got 280K. So, who can tell me where I can get an EJ22 for a 1999-2001 Legacy with decent mileage in the Carolinas or on the net ?

I checked the valve lash about a year ago and tweeked it a little (.002-.003) on a couple of valves. It has solid lifters, so that's not the problem. I don't think the problem is in the bottom end since the oil pressure is good, the vacuum gauge reading are good, and it doesn't sould like a rod knock.

OK, I put a direct reading pressure gauge in and got 20 psi at hot idle and 75 psi when reveed up. It sitll has piston slap for the first 3-5 minutes of startup and taps continuously. As regular as the noise is I'm wondering about the cam bearings or other worn valve compnents. What's weird is that the noise sounds like it comes out of the engine core, but the oil pressure is hign. Can anyone tell me what they think is going on. Do I need to swap the engine?

99 Legacy 2.2 wagon (ej22) with no modifications and 266K. Has always got 26-27 for my 23 mile commute with stop & go and 33 on hwy.

Ok, so I did a compression test this weekend and got 210 psi for #1, 180 for #2, 190 #3m 194 #4. #2 was slow to build pressure and built pressure much quicker after adding oil. Classic ring problem. The piston slap or whatever it is can be heard at a lower level at idle after the car is fully warmed up. Engine has irregular problems with accelerating especially when I first press on the gas. I checked fuel pressure and got 36 psi idle (26-30 spec) and 44 psi with vacuum hose off regulator (34-38 spec). No crud ro water in fuel filter. Changed plugs. When I had the throttle body off to clean last week, I noticed soot specs and oil in intake manifold, so I replaced the PVC and cleaned its hoses. The engine is starting to no turn over on the first try and then turns over fine. Am I looking at a cracked ring or valve train problems ?

OK, so I've also been having a problem with acceleration on the low end that comes and goes and the engine not wanting to turn over on occassion and then turning over fine (good battery, starter). I checked the fuel pressure and got 36 psi at idle and 44 with the hose for the regulator disconnected. The book says should be 26-30 at idle and 34-38 with regulator disconnected. Do I have a bad pressure gauge or a bad regulator or what ? Most of the engine noise goes away when the engine warms up, but not all of it. Of the sounds that remain after warm up, I think its coming from the vlave train or can bearing. The valves are properly adjusted and have never been more then 0.002 out (solid lifters on 99). Compression test showed 210 on #1, 180 #2, 190 #3, 195 #4. #2 was slow to build pressure and pressure increased immediately with oil added to cylinder (classic bad rings). I saw carbon and oil in intake manifold last week when I pulled off the throttle body to clean it and then replace PVC valve and cleaned hoses of excess carbon. So, I still thinking rebuild. Anyone know a goot machine shop in the Charlotte area and a good source for parts ?

Thanks for you comments guys! Where do I screw in a direct reading oil gauge ?

Need some advice: I have a 99 legacy with 266K that got a bad case of piston slap about 12K ago on a two day road trip in fall where I let it run 1 quart low. I thinking about rebuilding, as the noise makes me reluctant to take it on the road again. Since most of the noise goes away after its warmed up, I don't think I damaged the rods and mains. I've replaced the oil pump, water pump, timing belt, tensior and idlers and tried STP and Mobil 1 high mileage. Still the noise continues. I've rebuilt other engines in the past, but not yet a subaru engine. If it just needs bearings, rings, and valve seals it should be pretty cheap for another 100K and will allow me to maintain my practice of keeping a car until its old enough to drive itself. What do you think ?

My 99 Legacy with an EJ22 began making a knock at about 237K. I replaced the oil pump, timing belt, sprockets, tensioner and rollers. The sound stopped until I took a 1,000 mile trip to Nebraska this past month (245K). When I started the car up after sitting for a week, it knocked to beat the band. It was a quart low. After it warmed up the knocking stopped. Now it knocks whenever its been sitting out in the cold for a few hours, but stops when the temperature gauge reaches normal temp. Is this just piston slap, or is there an oil supply problem ? The sound comes from all over, but seems centered in the cam/valve area. Any recommendations ?

My 99 legacy started knocking at idle a couple of days ago. Sounded like it was coming from the engine, but the frequency made me think it was from the timing belt and rollers. I also had an intermittant check engine light for about one minute with no poor driveability problems and no code. I went to check the timing belt and found the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) was loose and rubbing against the crank sprocket. Metal fragments were on the crank engine sensor. The bearing in one of the timing belt rollers had play and the belt had a line worn in the top side about 3/16 from the inner side with rubber being tranferred to a roller. I have inspected the belt every 60K and replaced when it had any wear, but this is the first time problem I've seen with a roller. I'm replacing the balancer, crank sprocket, key, {timing belt, rollers, tensioner, and water pump} (sold together on ebay), and oil pump. I've got 226K and I'm trying to make it last at least another 100K. Does anybody know if the pan has to be dropped to change the oil pump? I'll use locktite on the balancer bolt this time. Anybody seen anything like this before ?

About a week ago, I had a flashing check engine light while cruisin down the interstate. The engine did not overhead or make any noises. When I got off the I-state & hooked up my code reader, I got no codes. A few days ago, I started hearing a knock when the car is idling at a stop. The noise went away when I began driving and came back when at a stop. I'm thinking it's a flex plate or thrust bearing since it changes with engine load. I have 226K, but have done all the service at recommended intervals. Any thoughts ? The only recent work I have done was replacing an inner tie rod which involved removing the exhaust from the heads to drop the stabilizer bar.

So, I replaced the right inner tie rod and had the vehicle aligned. I replaced the front rotors about two weeks ago to deal with the shimmy. The vehicle handles much better, but still seems to grab when the applying a moderate amount of force to the brakes. Push harder or softer and it not as pronounced. The alignment shop said to change the rear rotors (which also have internal shoes for the parking brake). Since all four wheels were checked for balance and the car has just been aligned, I don't think its a steering, wheel or tire problem. What do you think guys, rear rotors or a drivetrain problem ? Any recommendations ?

Thanks Mike! I'm ordering the right inner tie rod end and both boots. Does anyone know what kind of grease to use ?