fixitguy50

The manual I have for my 1999 Legacy L shows a locking washer that has to be bent with a chisel that secures the inner end of the inner tie rod. They show replacement as part of rack inspection and rebuild. Has anyone changed this type of inner tie. Does the rack need to be pulled to provide access to the lock washer. The inner end of the tie road feel loose in its socket whether wiggling side to side or up and down.

I have a bad shimmy when stopping, I found that the right tie rod has excess movement on where it goes into the rack and pinion. Both boots are cracked, but no fluid leakage. The left tie rod end is tight. Should I replace parts or replace the rack and pinion?

Scoobywagon: A few days ago, I notice a new smell when I put on the defroster and that the smell left when I turned it off. I looked under the hood when I got home and found dyed oil around the compressor shroud and on the clutch. Is there a difference in specs between a DKV-14D and a DKV-14G. I got the compressor from a salvage yard and it looked the same and mounted the same. The compressor I was replacing was not the factory original. My thought is that since the front seal leak has just begun, that I may be able to fix the problem before it causes compressor failure. Since my salvage yard compressor only lasted 4 months (90 day guarantee) and the last remanufactured compressor lasted just over a year before it began to leak (one year guarantee), it looks like replacing the front seal would be a better option. The information I've seen says that the system holds 5 oz. of oil and that only the compressor is changed that 2 oz. should be put into the compressor. I used polymax oil last time. Should I use PAG 46 ? Thanks for any advice.

Leadfoot, I'm trying to determine what the cost of changing the seal is. NAPA says they can get a seal/gasket kit for $18, but that they don't have a picture of it. Where can I get a front bearing and what's a normal cost ? Do I need clutch removal tool kit for this job ?

Almost three years ago I had the A/C compressor on my 1999 Legacy 2.2L SW replaced along with the received drier. The compressor was installed by a professional and came from Advance Auto. It started leaking from around the front seal after one year and was toast in two years. I decided to diagnosis and repair the problem myself this summer. I got a Zexel DKV-14G compressor from off another 99 Legacy from a salvage yard, flushed the lines, replaced the oil, vacuumed the system and recharged it. It ran great for four months, but now is leaking again from the front seal. Did the seal fail from lack of use and lubrication from being out of use or is there something else causing the repeat failure ? Anybody have experience with these compresors? What's a good source of seals and do I need a clutch tool kit to change the front seal without damaging it ?

89 degrees. 148 psi on low side and 150 psi on high side with engine off and sitting for 30 minutes. A/C not operated for at lease one week. From other posts it looks like a failed refrigerant control valve. What do you think ?

I have a 99 Legacy 2.2 L that's not cooling and has the following characteristics. No temp drop at vent, 65 psi low side and 125 psi high side with cool but not cold suction line at firewall. Changed with 12oz 134a and got 75 on low side, 135 on high side and warm suction line. Compressor or expansion valve or what ?

Thanks Gary! I'm headed to the salvage yard for their $60 compressor.

Check the air filter by removing it and holding it up to the light, if it looks dirty replace it. If you have not had the fuel filter replaced, do so. Each item should be $15-$20. I had a bad plug wire at about 140K, but it gave a OBDII code (check engine). See if the timing belt has been replaced. I'm in the process of rebuilding an engine of a 2.5 SOHC in a 1999 Forester where a idler went out locked up the water pump and bent the valves. The 99 had 160K and no belt maintenance. The belt, tensioner, and all idlers should be replaced every 105K to prevent this sort of damage. You do not want that experience!

Nipper: The warranty from Advanced Auto was 90 days, the mechanic gave a one year warranty. The first compressor he got from Advanced had ports that did not match up with the original and a second had to be shipped in. So, any recommendations as to brands of good a/c parts, gauges, and manuals ?

Thanks guys! A little more history. I experienced similar problems two years ago and brought the car to a certified A/C mechanic after finding the suction and discharge lines were reading the same pressure with my cheap recharge kit gauges. He replaced the compessor with a rebuild from Advanced and it began leaking around the front seal after one year. It began the bogging down problem at two years. Since I paid $800 for a two year fix and I have a background in mechanics, I think it time to invest in a quality set of gauges, a vacuum pump and manual and begin doing the R134a work myself. Any recommendations as to which brand gauges and pumps to use and who sells a good manual.

The car either does not accelerate or does so more slowly than usual. When the A/C is turned off, the acceleration returns.

Many times when I turn on my A/C the engine will not accelerate. There is an oil leak from the front seal of the two year old compressor and I suspect the clutch may be slipping erratically. Is the acceleration problem more likely a result to a/c clutch problems or a compressor problem ? Does changing the compressor clutch and front seal require special tools ?

I first heard popping in the front end of my 99 Legacy at 165,000. The right front wheel bearing went out and I replaced both wheel bearings. Popping noise continued and I replaced the front axles. Popping noise reduced and limited to going over bumps. I replaced the struts and upper pivot supports. Popping is still present when vehicle starts or stops moving and when swaying side to side. I'm up to 215,000 now and know I need to replace the front sway bar bushings. How about the lower control arm bushings? Anyone else had this problem?

Tell me about seafoaming. What is it ? and how is it done ? I have noticed the intake manifold has excess deposits. Any tips regarding throttle body cleaning (engine speed, brand of cleaner) ? fixitguy50

Tell me about seafoaming. What is it ? and how is it done ? fixitguy50

My Acutron OBD II scanner works fine for receiving active codes that display when the check engine light is illuminated (u-check mode). I need to know how to use it for the read and memory modes. I have identified the green test mode connectors under the dash of my 1999 Legacy, but have not tried connecting them and using the scanner. Can anyone give my some guidance on the read and memory modes ? I have a sporatic problem on acceleration and don't get a check engine light and have done a complete tune up. The vehicle has 190,000. fixitguy50