M45

I think I will order the two row rad from RadiatorExpress. I am worried about it fitting and trust the mods suggested by Sonicfrog will work. I hope that with jostling on rough roads the fan won't bang into the radiator. I think I'll hardly ever drive on really rough roads, but it only takes one incident in an isolated location in winter in the Sierras to have a major issue on one's hands. I'm actually looking forward to the possibility of doing some winter driving with the always 4 wheel drive, something I couldn't do before, go places after snowfalls, etc. On the other hand, I also expect to be doing some distance driving in high California heat (90-105 deg) with the air conditioner on at 65+ mph (think turbo) occasionally, and I'm sure the engine will appreciate the extra row then.

Engine Fan Shroud (Cut) I cut this to remove it to get much better access to the engine fan nuts.

Belt Tension Adjuster Somehow this got bent before I got the vehicle. I can't remove it from the bracket. Both will have to be replaced.

The radiator I removed. It looks like it has been repaired in the past and the solderings are in a pattern suspiciously like where the engine fan turns. Not sure why this would happen, other than perhaps something pushing the radiator into the engine? I hate to think there might have been front end damage, but I see zero signs of that on my vehicle. Maybe it's a used radiator from another vehicle.

OK, with a little help from new friends (plural) on this great board, got the radiator out. * The extra radiator in front is indeed the air conditioner radiator. * The wrench size to hold the fan still while undoing nuts on it is indeed 22 mm. * I had to remove the electric fan before the radiator would come out. Just not enough clearance * I cut the engine fan shroud near the bottom between the two attachment points there, pulled it out, and filed the cut smooth. It made getting access to the engine fan much easier. * The radiator shows signs of repair (solder on several channels, so they were probably useless). Good thing to replace the whole unit. Might be a blessing in disguise. * Thanks for the tip to the 89 engine manuals! Yes, no turbo, and that means a different removal install procedure for the radiator (extra steps) but lots of good info there. * I'm still getting used to the car: dome light works: shines in the two outer switch positions, and is off in the middle one, but no interaction with the doors. I don't see how a two-row radiator can fit in there. The clearance to the engine fan was about 3/4 inch and I was rubbing it against the radiator to get it out. Afterwards, I discovered that the four bolts are headless and could be unscrewed to make it easy for the fan to come out. Two-row seems to be the way to go, but will it really fit into the 88 GL-10 Wagon Turbo 1.8L EA82 4spAutoTrans with A/C ?

Thanks for the thoughtful replies. Something occurs to me that I haven't seen in my readings. There is a second radiator that appears to be an oil cooler radiator, in front of the engine coolant radiator. The engine coolant radiator is completely separate. I haven't touched the front radiator. When people refer to a "two row radiator", they aren't referring to a radiator with this second oil cooler radiator builtin, are they? I'm surprised I haven't seen any mention of this second front mounted radiator. If I buy a replacement radiator (one row or two row) I'm just replacing the coolant radiator, right?

Hi, I just recently got a 1988 Subaru GL-10 wagon in a hurry in Nevada (six hours to find and buy a car). Seems in good shape, has had some maintenance on the engine recently, like timing belt. * Need some rear side trim. * Interior dome light doesn't come on for door open. * Radio and trip computer switch off and completely reset when ignition key is turned off. * Height adjustment seems inoperative; thus the rear suspension is elevated. * Interior hood release puller is missing plastic handle, just has a metal stub. * One hubcap missing. * Emergency blinker hazard lights don't blink. Drove it back to the SF Bay Area, no problems. However after a couple of days it started leaking coolant. I shifted and tightened the clamp since the radiator outlet seemed short. The next day it completely broke and spewed coolant. It seems that the outlet pipe crumbled due to age and maybe overtightening (wire type hose clamp). I was able to limp home two miles in two steps. It did heat up and steam, but gauge never actually went into the red, so I think I'm probably ok. I'm taking the radiator out to replace it, since with plastic side tanks it seem impossible to repair it and repairing an old radiator wouldn't be a good idea from what I read. So I'm wondering whether to get the stock Subaru radiator, appr $220; a Cooling Systems & Flex (CSF) "heavy duty" single row #815 radiator about $150; a CSF #933 about $125; or a two row Radiator Express $135 ? I have it ready to come out except for the engine fan that looks like it will need to be removed to provide clearance. I'm working without a manual since I hate chilton's and I haven't time for Haynes to be ordered.