blaze
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Posts posted by blaze
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The cogged idler is under the most stress, so it fails first usually. I've had them come in with a flat worn on one side of the pully hub from how long it was spinning on it without the bearings. The teeth of the pully tend to grind into the head of the oil pump bypass spring cap thingy, so check that too. I also had one that the pully seized, ripped the bolt halfway out of the waterpump, and sheared it off. Car was driven home 30 miles or more, and the timing had only jumped 1 tooth. That was a mess with the pully ping-ponging around inside the belt covers.
You are correct 91 Loyale, the noise it made was the cog wheel grinding into the oil pump housing.
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Timing belt on my 98 Outback Wagon 5spd 2.5 almost broke.
Just pulled out of a parking lot when I heard a loud whirling (metallic) noise? Pulled over quickly, then had it towed home. Found out the cog idler wheel (with teeth) had come apart
But it stayed on the bolt after all the ball bearings departed 
So after removing radiator, belts, covers etc. The ball bearings chewed up the pass side cam sprockets. Top one (intake) had one tooth chipped, lower torn up bad. So went to local yard pulled both sprokets, for 20 bucks 
Then 412 bucks total at subie dealer for belt, idlers pulleys x3, and belt tensioner assy job complete. Plus changed out slow leaking power steering pump with one I already had I was planning on doing the belt this summer. This is a good example to change out the idler wheels when you do a timing belt. Lucky me the belt and wheel held
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I looking at replacing my 98 OBW 2.5 standard 5 spd exhaust system.
The biggest cost is the catalytic converters (fwd 44111AC233 &
aft 44111AC172) $2500.00
My dealer parts told me I could use a 2000 or newer OBW one piece catalytic converters? Instead of the older 2 piece I have?
The cost is way cheaper 879.00 bucks for the 44139AE12A (auto)? Only I would have to move the mounting brackets (weld) and use different gaskets that it comes with? It has the same O2 ports? I haven't seen it yet, I'm just going by what he told me over the phone.
My question is has anybody else done this ? Will it work ? And which one piece did you use?
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Update,
After 3 days and 250 miles, my Subie's stumble issue is gone
Not only is it gone but it seems to run smoother than it was. Especially during acceleration and shifting.
This is a great message board, a wealth of information. Thanks
Also thanks Four-Fleet-Feet for the keyless installation manual, but no luck, it didn't help me with my OBW
Big thanks for taking the time and postage to try and help me 
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98 OBW, fixed my engine stumble issue? It began about a month ago, every now and then while motoring along it would stumble. The only parts on this wagon that was not Subaru OEM were the spark plug wires. So I placed an order with my Subie dealer. In the time it took me to pick up the OEM wires I went ahead and swapped out the following parts I have spares for:
Cam Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
Fuel Filter (needed replacement anyway)
Ignition Coil
MAF
O2 Sensors (replaced prior to stumble)
Plus a couple more I probably forgot about? But did not fix the stumble.
The old plug wires that were in there since I bought the car in Oct 97, were suppose to be recently installed by the previous owner?
Today I installed the OEM Subaru wires, the quality seems much better
they even sealed the joints between the wires and connectors.Took it for a 30 mile drive with NO STUMBLING
The old wires were Belden Premium 7mm SAE Class F-MF.
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Thanks Four-Fleet-Feet sent you a PM.
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No, the subaru keyless systems were not just "plug in" there are several wires that get cut and respliced through the unit, and several wires that "tap splice" into the existing wiring.
I don't have the installation manual, but I've examined the wiring in a couple cars equipped with the system. I would like ot get the installation manual.
Correct, this is a SUBARU Keyless Unit and it gets spliced in. Wish it was like most others plug and play. I would like to see a copy of the installation procedures if any one has them?
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Picked up a keyless entry control unit with complete wire harness (H7110AS011) from Junk Yard
This one was spliced into a 97 OBW. I plan on putting it into a 98 OBW. Anyone know where I can get a copy of installation instructions or owners manual
Also will need a FOB (remote) for it?
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Found a brand new wheel bearing in the back of a 97 OBW at local junk yard, sealed in plastic. Is it a rear wheel bearing?
It seems to have ball bearings inside? No plastic part in the middle like the new ones have. Can it still be used?
Info stamped on bearing:
Japan HN NTN AUO827
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In this particular car, it was in a front-end collison. And this rings true from what I saw when the car was on the lift - there were welds on the crumple-zones behind the radiator, and it looks like both front wheel assemblies were replaced (marked with "FR" and "FL" on the backs of the housings in front). So hood, fender, radiator, axles, wheels, some front structural stuff, grille, etc. So quite a lot. You can tell if you look really closely, too. The hood lines dont completely match the fender lines in-paralell, if you look closely.
Front end crash on a interference engine? Did the timing belt break?
Wonder if its the same engine?
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Thanks for the information Blaze. My regular mechanic carries NAPA batteries and I might give him a shot after looking at the data from Consumers. He wanted around $80 installed.
~Howard
Glad to help,
I bought mine from NAPA on 1/04/08 (3 months ago), they didn't have the NAPA LEGEND 7535 in stock, so they tried to sell me another group 35 napa battery with no luck.
I ordered CReports #1 pick for the north the NAPA LEGEND 7535 and it came in the next day. I only paid 58.95
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These are getting beyond sand blasting, the outer edge is falling off.
Thanx
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Here's what Consumer Reports stated,
With many auto parts stores and bigbox
retailers now in the battery business, a
great variety is available. Most offer batteries
at various prices, with different promises
of power and life expectancy.However,
most replacement batteries are manufactured
by just three different companies:
Exide, Johnson Controls, and East Penn,
which build them to retailer specifications
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These are CONSUMER REPORTS picks for GROUP 35 (Most recent Honda Accords, Subarus, Nissan, and Toyota vehicles starting with 55 thru 62.
Very good article on Car Batteries.
OCTOBER 2006 http://www.ConsumerReports.org
Auto batteries may look identical to you,
but under the hood they can perform
quite differently from one another.And
our tests show that some of the best
performers aren’t necessarily the more
expensive batteries.
................................ $ - CCA -warrenty
55 NAPA Legend 7535 ‡ 60 600 18/75
56 Duralast › 35-DL 60 500 24/84
57 DieHard ¤ Gold 33035 (North) ‡ 90 640 36/100
58 Autocraft fiSilver 35-1 50 500 24/72
59 Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-35 80 640 6/85
60 DieHard ¤ WeatherHandler 30035 (North) ‡ 60 490 18/72
61 DieHard¤WeatherHandler 30335 (South) ‡ 60 480 18/72
62 Interstate Mega-Tron MT-35 70 550 18/75
⁄ At Costco only. ¤ At Sears and Kmart only. ‹ At Wal-Mart only.
› At AutoZone only. fi At Advance Auto only.
fl At Sam’s Club only. ‡ Sealed or maintenance free.
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Getting ready to do my rear wheel bearings in my 98 OBW, only to find out my rear brake dust shields are rusted.
Would like to replace them at the same time, 109 bucks per shield at the dealer is quite a sticker shock
Looked at a couple of junk yards with no luck, there shields are worse than mine. No luck with Ebay either.
Anybody know where I could find them cheaper?
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I purchased the front wheel bearing OEM for my 98 OBW. It looks packed! should I use the factory greese or is there something better out there?
Just picked up my rear bearings and seals from the Subaru Dealer yesterday for my 98 OBW.
The service tech came over and pulled the bearings out of the boxes and stated these don't come packed correctly. They repack all wheel bearings, and I should repack them with any QUALITY (he really stressed QUALITY) wheel bearing grease of my choice.
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Will drive axles from a 99 or 2000 OBW 2.5 automatic trans fit a manual transmission 98 OBW 2.5 ???
Any help here?
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Will drive axles from a 99 or 2000 OBW 2.5 automatic trans fit a manual transmission 98 OBW 2.5 ???
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Hi. I used an MWE axle on the front of my '00obw. I have had it one for maybe 10,000 miles. Has been great so far. None of the vibration or clicking issues that seem to occur sometimes with parts store axles. I have also used a Subaru OEM reman axle on a different soob which worked fine too (but at nearly twice the price).
Here's what mine looked like:
Only note: MWE axle (mine anyway) did not include a new axle nut and spring/roll pin.
Thanks for the all info, So far I've haven't seen any negative replys as we see on other axles? Looks like these are one of the best Remans?
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I read these MWE Axles are better?
Wondering who has installed them, and how are they holding up?
Type of vehicle, front or rear axles, and how many miles you have on them.
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I have noticed Blu is getting louder in the rear. At 210,000 miles he is allowed. I am pretty sure its not the rear diff, so I think in the spring I will get Blu new rear wheel bearings. Looking at the FSM, it looks doable in the driveway, if i can snag the tool. AM i underestimating this, or should i let a machine shop deal with the bearing part of it.
nipper
Are you using OEM bearings? Or is there better after market ones?
Mine are also getting louder back there, so I plan on changing them soon.
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Anyone have a part number for SUBARU OEM DIFF OIL?
For a 98 OBW 2.5, MAN 5sp, AWD
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Damn, that front one always gets me. If it goes I will put an aftermarket on. I have 183K on it so it could be anyday.
Still researching this,
I called Bosch (Farmington Hills, MI 48331) and just recieved a return call from them.
According to this Rep, he states there is no difference between any Bosch O2Sensor sold anywhere (same part number), they make different types (see there web site) but he clearly stated Bosch O2 sensors will be exactly the same quality unit as long as the Bosch part number is the same, and the only differance with the universal is you'll have to put the plug on it.
He also said "If the O2 sensor for Subaru is built buy Bosch (OEM), the only differance between the one you'll buy there (dealer) or at any other auto parts store will be the box Subaru put it in and Subaru part number printed on the box" .
I'm still waiting on a email from another tech rep at Bosch, maybe I'll get it tomorrow?
I've used Bosch O2 sensors on other viehicles in the past and always wondered if they were the same as the Dealer Bosch's?
Transmisson coming out, bearing noise?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by blaze
Pulling the tranny in my 98 OBW 2.5, 5spd manual. Tranny is making whirling noise when clutch pedal is UP in any gear, doesn't make any noise when in neutral or clutch pedal DOWN. Sounds like the input bearing, tranny has 260,000 miles. The throwout and pilot bearing are OEM 60,000 miles ago when the engine was replaced.
Going to replace, input bearing, Excedy Clutch KIt ( disc, pressure plate, throwout, and pilot bearing). front and rear seals in tranny, exhaust gaskets. Might change rear main seal, but new short block only has 60,000 miles on it? Has new metal oil seperator plate also, should I still pull it and reseal?
Any other seals, bearings, tranny mounts, etc that should be replaced as well?? All parts will be OEM, except the Excedy Clutch Kit parts.
thanks