blaze

Pulling the tranny in my 98 OBW 2.5, 5spd manual. Tranny is making whirling noise when clutch pedal is UP in any gear, doesn't make any noise when in neutral or clutch pedal DOWN. Sounds like the input bearing, tranny has 260,000 miles. The throwout and pilot bearing are OEM 60,000 miles ago when the engine was replaced. Going to replace, input bearing, Excedy Clutch KIt ( disc, pressure plate, throwout, and pilot bearing). front and rear seals in tranny, exhaust gaskets. Might change rear main seal, but new short block only has 60,000 miles on it? Has new metal oil seperator plate also, should I still pull it and reseal? Any other seals, bearings, tranny mounts, etc that should be replaced as well?? All parts will be OEM, except the Excedy Clutch Kit parts. thanks

You are correct 91 Loyale, the noise it made was the cog wheel grinding into the oil pump housing.

Timing belt on my 98 Outback Wagon 5spd 2.5 almost broke. Just pulled out of a parking lot when I heard a loud whirling (metallic) noise? Pulled over quickly, then had it towed home. Found out the cog idler wheel (with teeth) had come apart But it stayed on the bolt after all the ball bearings departed So after removing radiator, belts, covers etc. The ball bearings chewed up the pass side cam sprockets. Top one (intake) had one tooth chipped, lower torn up bad. So went to local yard pulled both sprokets, for 20 bucks Then 412 bucks total at subie dealer for belt, idlers pulleys x3, and belt tensioner assy job complete. Plus changed out slow leaking power steering pump with one I already had I was planning on doing the belt this summer. This is a good example to change out the idler wheels when you do a timing belt. Lucky me the belt and wheel held :banana::banana:

I looking at replacing my 98 OBW 2.5 standard 5 spd exhaust system. The biggest cost is the catalytic converters (fwd 44111AC233 & aft 44111AC172) $2500.00 My dealer parts told me I could use a 2000 or newer OBW one piece catalytic converters? Instead of the older 2 piece I have? The cost is way cheaper 879.00 bucks for the 44139AE12A (auto)? Only I would have to move the mounting brackets (weld) and use different gaskets that it comes with? It has the same O2 ports? I haven't seen it yet, I'm just going by what he told me over the phone. My question is has anybody else done this ? Will it work ? And which one piece did you use?

Update, After 3 days and 250 miles, my Subie's stumble issue is gone Not only is it gone but it seems to run smoother than it was. Especially during acceleration and shifting. This is a great message board, a wealth of information. Thanks Also thanks Four-Fleet-Feet for the keyless installation manual, but no luck, it didn't help me with my OBW Big thanks for taking the time and postage to try and help me :headbang:

oops

98 OBW, fixed my engine stumble issue? It began about a month ago, every now and then while motoring along it would stumble. The only parts on this wagon that was not Subaru OEM were the spark plug wires. So I placed an order with my Subie dealer. In the time it took me to pick up the OEM wires I went ahead and swapped out the following parts I have spares for: Cam Sensor Throttle Position Sensor Fuel Filter (needed replacement anyway) Ignition Coil MAF O2 Sensors (replaced prior to stumble) Plus a couple more I probably forgot about? But did not fix the stumble. The old plug wires that were in there since I bought the car in Oct 97, were suppose to be recently installed by the previous owner? Today I installed the OEM Subaru wires, the quality seems much better they even sealed the joints between the wires and connectors. Took it for a 30 mile drive with NO STUMBLING The old wires were Belden Premium 7mm SAE Class F-MF.

Thanks Four-Fleet-Feet sent you a PM.

Correct, this is a SUBARU Keyless Unit and it gets spliced in. Wish it was like most others plug and play. I would like to see a copy of the installation procedures if any one has them?

Picked up a keyless entry control unit with complete wire harness (H7110AS011) from Junk Yard This one was spliced into a 97 OBW. I plan on putting it into a 98 OBW. Anyone know where I can get a copy of installation instructions or owners manual Also will need a FOB (remote) for it?

Found a brand new wheel bearing in the back of a 97 OBW at local junk yard, sealed in plastic. Is it a rear wheel bearing? It seems to have ball bearings inside? No plastic part in the middle like the new ones have. Can it still be used? Info stamped on bearing: Japan HN NTN AUO827

In this particular car, it was in a front-end collison. And this rings true from what I saw when the car was on the lift - there were welds on the crumple-zones behind the radiator, and it looks like both front wheel assemblies were replaced (marked with "FR" and "FL" on the backs of the housings in front). So hood, fender, radiator, axles, wheels, some front structural stuff, grille, etc. So quite a lot. You can tell if you look really closely, too. The hood lines dont completely match the fender lines in-paralell, if you look closely. Front end crash on a interference engine? Did the timing belt break? Wonder if its the same engine?

Glad to help, I bought mine from NAPA on 1/04/08 (3 months ago), they didn't have the NAPA LEGEND 7535 in stock, so they tried to sell me another group 35 napa battery with no luck. I ordered CReports #1 pick for the north the NAPA LEGEND 7535 and it came in the next day. I only paid 58.95

These are getting beyond sand blasting, the outer edge is falling off. Thanx

Here's what Consumer Reports stated, With many auto parts stores and bigbox retailers now in the battery business, a great variety is available. Most offer batteries at various prices, with different promises of power and life expectancy.However, most replacement batteries are manufactured by just three different companies: Exide, Johnson Controls, and East Penn, which build them to retailer specifications