bansheercr

I took the bolt from the other side of the motor and found that hole plugged as well (more silicone)but no damage to the cams.With more time I'm confident that side would have seized also.Very frustrating.

I'll take any suggestions on how to make sure theres no more debri in the engine.

When I get the used head can I take the jet valve bolts out and blow air through all the oil holes in the head or spray brakleen to make sure its clear?I looked at the caps and now understand the number/letter markings.

[ Did you let it dry (24hr) before you started the engine ? . I didnt let it dry.I didnt know.You were right,I took the bolt out and found a piece of silicone in the hole.

The oil delivery is the only thing I can think of.I did remove the oil pump and replace the o ring as well as put 3 turns on one of the screws that was loose.Small bead around the pump housing,not to excess.The engine was never overheated,knew it was the hg by the bubbles in the overflow.The cam caps when first taken off were perfect.Would you have the valve lash specs handy?I found a used head for $200 but they wont let me be there when the dismantler takes it off .How important is it to put the cam caps back on the original way since I can't be there to label them?I guess I an deal with adjusting the valves under the circumstances.

Here is the cam bearing cap that seized on the right.the cam seal cap is on the left.

Thanks for the file but mine is a 98 with buckets and shims so it must be a phase 1?

Yes the cap that holds the seal as well as the other two caps that hold the cam itself.I am curious why. The first thing I checked was the oil level (good),and as clean as it was from the oil change 800 mi. ago.No leaks either.The only thing I can think of is somehow the oil passage got blocked.Some of the other journals on the other cam still had some assembly lube on them.It is a 98 ej25 with buckets and shims not the screw adjuster.

On the ej25 cam cap bolt torque spec from Haines is 4ft lbs.The non subaru mechanic that was helping me with the hgs' thought that seemed low so I called a friend who is a sub. mechanic and he stated subaru calls for 12-15 ftlbs.So I went with the 15ftlbs and 800 mi. later the cam froze in the journal causing the t-belt to jump which knocked everything out of time.I don't believe the valves are bent on either side but the top right cam,cap,and head are junk.Does anybody have the correct spec?Also can you adjust the valves with the head on the bench with the cam installed then dismantle and put it back on the car?

Make sure you check and tighten the screws on the back of the oil pump.It wouldn't be a bad idea to loctite them.I found one that took 3 turns before it was tight.Replace the o ring for the pump as well.

Check the liscence plate for the rattle.I have a bezel around mine and everytime I close the trunk it rattles.

Well I bit the bullet and bought a Subaru belt that had the lines printed on it,installed it and it runs smooth now.I'm glad that job is complete.Thanks to all for the input.

Got the head gaskets done yesterday.It went pretty smooth.We had to jack the left side of the motor about 2 inches in order to pull the head bolt out far enough to get the head off.The 1-3 head gasket failed down by the exhaust valves.2-4 head had no signs.We unbolted the intake and then just lifted enough to get the head off.The 3M yellow bristle discs on a die grinder make quick and effective work for gasket removal.The only problem I had was putting the timing belt back on with the marks on the sprockets. Napa after market belts don't have any timing marks on them.I counted teeth and when I ended on the last pulley it didn't come out right.I assembled it with double marks together and the crank pulley where it should be but I feel as though in the end 1 sprocket is a tooth off. Would 1 tooth make a small consistent puff at idle or would the computer copensate for it?

I found my front crank pulley came loose after my wife complained of vibration in the car.When I took it off the key way was egged out half way around the pulley.I went to the junk yard for a used one($50) and the man said he has seen quite a few with the same problem.Torque on the crank bolt is 100ft.lbs. and I used some locktite.

Thanks for the offer .I'm working out of the Haynes manual which did explain it well enough.Very helpful post.