bansheercr
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Everything posted by bansheercr
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The oil delivery is the only thing I can think of.I did remove the oil pump and replace the o ring as well as put 3 turns on one of the screws that was loose.Small bead around the pump housing,not to excess.The engine was never overheated,knew it was the hg by the bubbles in the overflow.The cam caps when first taken off were perfect.Would you have the valve lash specs handy?I found a used head for $200 but they wont let me be there when the dismantler takes it off .How important is it to put the cam caps back on the original way since I can't be there to label them?I guess I an deal with adjusting the valves under the circumstances.
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Yes the cap that holds the seal as well as the other two caps that hold the cam itself.I am curious why. The first thing I checked was the oil level (good),and as clean as it was from the oil change 800 mi. ago.No leaks either.The only thing I can think of is somehow the oil passage got blocked.Some of the other journals on the other cam still had some assembly lube on them.It is a 98 ej25 with buckets and shims not the screw adjuster.
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On the ej25 cam cap bolt torque spec from Haines is 4ft lbs.The non subaru mechanic that was helping me with the hgs' thought that seemed low so I called a friend who is a sub. mechanic and he stated subaru calls for 12-15 ftlbs.So I went with the 15ftlbs and 800 mi. later the cam froze in the journal causing the t-belt to jump which knocked everything out of time.I don't believe the valves are bent on either side but the top right cam,cap,and head are junk.Does anybody have the correct spec?Also can you adjust the valves with the head on the bench with the cam installed then dismantle and put it back on the car?
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Got the head gaskets done yesterday.It went pretty smooth.We had to jack the left side of the motor about 2 inches in order to pull the head bolt out far enough to get the head off.The 1-3 head gasket failed down by the exhaust valves.2-4 head had no signs.We unbolted the intake and then just lifted enough to get the head off.The 3M yellow bristle discs on a die grinder make quick and effective work for gasket removal.The only problem I had was putting the timing belt back on with the marks on the sprockets. Napa after market belts don't have any timing marks on them.I counted teeth and when I ended on the last pulley it didn't come out right.I assembled it with double marks together and the crank pulley where it should be but I feel as though in the end 1 sprocket is a tooth off. Would 1 tooth make a small consistent puff at idle or would the computer copensate for it?
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I found my front crank pulley came loose after my wife complained of vibration in the car.When I took it off the key way was egged out half way around the pulley.I went to the junk yard for a used one($50) and the man said he has seen quite a few with the same problem.Torque on the crank bolt is 100ft.lbs. and I used some locktite.
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We as well enjoy the car. It's very versatile for a family of 4.I enjoy the personal satisfaction of completing the job without going to the dealer.I was worried about the bucket/shims, but with your last post I feel I can do it.I was told I will need to jack the motor up by the oil pan and move it to the side.Removing the dog bone under the air box will further the movement.Is it true I will need to have the #1 cylinder at TDC before I start uninstalling?
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I'm going to put the shims back in just the way they came out.Do I need the valve depressor to put the buckets and shims back in or can I do it with pliers and fingers? I plan on keeping the car maybe 2 or 3 years if I can.Within the past year including this job I had the starter,alternator rebuilt,water pump,2 sets of cam/ crank seals,1 used front crank pulley because the original came loose and sheared the key way,valve cover gaskets,and the fuel filler neck.With that amount of money I'd like to get some miles before we go and get a fresh car.
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Thanks for the reply Porcupine 73.The OBW has 105,000. I replaced the cam,crank seals,water pump,timing belt,and a bottom idler at 90,000 only to find the head gaskets faulty later to which I should have known by the residue in the coolant resivoir tank.last week I opened the tank while the engine was running and seen the bubbles.This week I want to gain as much know how as possible as the head gaskets are coming out fri. night.I will be getting an oil pump oring now due to this helpful forum.
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Thanks for the tips.I really value all the advice I can get.Me and a co worker are going to tackle the HG next weekend.I see some that replace the o -ring on the oil pump.Should I do the same?I'm working out of the Haynes manual and they call for anerobic sealant,would RTV black be sufficient?Also did you just put all the shims back as they were or did you have to change some to get the desired clearance?