bansheercr
-
Posts
20 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by bansheercr
-
-
I'll take any suggestions on how to make sure theres no more debri in the engine.
-
When I get the used head can I take the jet valve bolts out and blow air through all the oil holes in the head or spray brakleen to make sure its clear?I looked at the caps and now understand the number/letter markings.
-
[
Did you let it dry (24hr) before you started the engine ? .
I didnt let it dry.I didnt know.You were right,I took the bolt out and found a piece of silicone in the hole.How important is it to put the cam caps back on the original way since I can't be there to label them?They are already labeled on the caps
You probably got some debris in the oil gallery and it migrated to the jet valve that is in side the cylinder head . see attached zip file , there are bolts at either end of the cylinder head that are 14 mm , pop those off and look inside you will see the valve . You will most likely see the debris SEA#3
-
The front cam caps torque spec. is 82-95 INCH Lbs.
The center and rear cam cap torque spec. is 13-16 Ft. Lbs.
You will pull the threads on the cylinder head if you torque them to tight.
heads are torqued.
The oil delivery is the only thing I can think of.I did remove the oil pump and replace the o ring as well as put 3 turns on one of the screws that was loose.Small bead around the pump housing,not to excess.The engine was never overheated,knew it was the hg by the bubbles in the overflow.The cam caps when first taken off were perfect.Would you have the valve lash specs handy?I found a used head for $200 but they wont let me be there when the dismantler takes it off .How important is it to put the cam caps back on the original way since I can't be there to label them?I guess I an deal with adjusting the valves under the circumstances.
-
Here is the cam bearing cap that seized on the right.the cam seal cap is on the left.
-
Just did the head gaskets on an EJ25, so I had to figure this out too. The Subaru tech manual specifies 18 N.m (= 13.0 foot pounds) for the bolts with Torx heads that attach the cam casing to the cylinder head. The also recommend a specific tightening sequence. To help with this, I uploaded a pdf copy of the relevant section of the Subaru Tech manual to rapidshare (a public file sharing service). You can download this at
http://rapidshare.com/files/76884441/Camshaft.pdf
Use the "free download" option; this is a four-pager with a file size of about 180 Kb, so this should be small enough to get even if you use 56K dial up. Use adobe acrobat to view/print the file.
You can adjust valve clearances before installing the heads; the phase 2 ej25 engines (which is the one I just did) have screw type adjusters. Easy to set with a wrench, screwdriver and feeler gauge. The manual says clearances should be 0.20 mm for the intake and 0.25 mm for the exhaust valves. The older phase 1 ej25s used shims, which are another story - not sure what year engine you have.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the file but mine is a 98 with buckets and shims so it must be a phase 1?
-
12 ftlb, i verified with a 1997 FSM.
just to make sure, you're talking about the cam cap that holds the cam seal right?
are you at all curious why the cam seized or do you know? did it run out of oil? most likely the cam was starved of oil. if it didn't run out or have a major leak i'd suspect something contaminated the oil supply.
Yes the cap that holds the seal as well as the other two caps that hold the cam itself.I am curious why. The first thing I checked was the oil level (good),and as clean as it was from the oil change 800 mi. ago.No leaks either.The only thing I can think of is somehow the oil passage got blocked.Some of the other journals on the other cam still had some assembly lube on them.It is a 98 ej25 with buckets and shims not the screw adjuster.
-
On the ej25 cam cap bolt torque spec from Haines is 4ft lbs.The non subaru mechanic that was helping me with the hgs' thought that seemed low so I called a friend who is a sub. mechanic and he stated subaru calls for 12-15 ftlbs.So I went with the 15ftlbs and 800 mi. later the cam froze in the journal causing the t-belt to jump which knocked everything out of time.I don't believe the valves are bent on either side but the top right cam,cap,and head are junk.Does anybody have the correct spec?Also can you adjust the valves with the head on the bench with the cam installed then dismantle and put it back on the car?
-
Make sure you check and tighten the screws on the back of the oil pump.It wouldn't be a bad idea to loctite them.I found one that took 3 turns before it was tight.Replace the o ring for the pump as well.
-
Check the liscence plate for the rattle.I have a bezel around mine and everytime I close the trunk it rattles.
-
Well I bit the bullet and bought a Subaru belt that had the lines printed on it,installed it and it runs smooth now.I'm glad that job is complete.Thanks to all for the input.
-
Got the head gaskets done yesterday.It went pretty smooth.We had to jack the left side of the motor about 2 inches in order to pull the head bolt out far enough to get the head off.The 1-3 head gasket failed down by the exhaust valves.2-4 head had no signs.We unbolted the intake and then just lifted enough to get the head off.The 3M yellow bristle discs on a die grinder make quick and effective work for gasket removal.The only problem I had was putting the timing belt back on with the marks on the sprockets. Napa after market belts don't have any timing marks on them.I counted teeth and when I ended on the last pulley it didn't come out right.I assembled it with double marks together and the crank pulley where it should be but I feel as though in the end 1 sprocket is a tooth off. Would 1 tooth make a small consistent puff at idle or would the computer copensate for it?
-
I found my front crank pulley came loose after my wife complained of vibration in the car.When I took it off the key way was egged out half way around the pulley.I went to the junk yard for a used one($50) and the man said he has seen quite a few with the same problem.Torque on the crank bolt is 100ft.lbs. and I used some locktite.
-
You may want to jack the engine up but you don't have to. Yes, it's tight if you don't, but perfectly doable. I like having the engine securely anchored when torqueing and detorqueing head bolts and cam pulley bolts, but lifting it a bit would make it easier to get at valve cover bolts and those long head bolts. You can play it by ear and jack it or pull it if you need to.
Forget TDC. Line up the timing marks on the belt and take it off. The pistons are all mid-travel, the RH valves are closed, and there is a valve open on each LH cam. The open LH valves may snap shut when you take the belt off, but there is no possibility of damage if the timing marks were lined up. To reinstall, you just rotate them back into postition. It's explained in detail in the shop manual, if it isn't in Haynes. I think I have the file still, and I'm sure I have a hard copy if you'd like it. PM me, if you do.
I hear ya on the personal satisfaction thing. I can't put my finger on exactly why it's so rewarding, but it is.
Thanks for the offer .I'm working out of the Haynes manual which did explain it well enough.Very helpful post.
-
We as well enjoy the car. It's very versatile for a family of 4.I enjoy the personal satisfaction of completing the job without going to the dealer.I was worried about the bucket/shims, but with your last post I feel I can do it.I was told I will need to jack the motor up by the oil pan and move it to the side.Removing the dog bone under the air box will further the movement.Is it true I will need to have the #1 cylinder at TDC before I start uninstalling?
-
I'm going to put the shims back in just the way they came out.Do I need the valve depressor to put the buckets and shims back in or can I do it with pliers and fingers? I plan on keeping the car maybe 2 or 3 years if I can.Within the past year including this job I had the starter,alternator rebuilt,water pump,2 sets of cam/ crank seals,1 used front crank pulley because the original came loose and sheared the key way,valve cover gaskets,and the fuel filler neck.With that amount of money I'd like to get some miles before we go and get a fresh car.
-
Thanks for the reply Porcupine 73.The OBW has 105,000. I replaced the cam,crank seals,water pump,timing belt,and a bottom idler at 90,000 only to find the head gaskets faulty later to which I should have known by the residue in the coolant resivoir tank.last week I opened the tank while the engine was running and seen the bubbles.This week I want to gain as much know how as possible as the head gaskets are coming out fri. night.I will be getting an oil pump oring now due to this helpful forum.
-
As a novice mechanic, I've done three HGs leaving the engine in place. I've pulled two for clutches. If i didn't have to do the clutch, I'd do the HGs in the car again. For me, pulling the engine is not as easy as Subaru 360 makes it sound, but I bet he's more experienced than I am. I find it nerve-wracking to get everything lined upand home again. OTOH, i'm using abucket loader. An engine lift would make the job easier.
The only truly annoying part is removing the rear lower valve cover bolts. A flat 10mm ratcheting wrench helps with this.
Tom
Thanks for the tips.I really value all the advice I can get.Me and a co worker are going to tackle the HG next weekend.I see some that replace the o -ring on the oil pump.Should I do the same?I'm working out of the Haynes manual and they call for anerobic sealant,would RTV black be sufficient?Also did you just put all the shims back as they were or did you have to change some to get the desired clearance?
-
I plan on replacing the head gaskets with the motor in the car? Do you have to remove the cams or can I leave them in the head so I don't disturb the buckets/ shims when I take the heads off?
cam cap torque spec?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I took the bolt from the other side of the motor and found that hole plugged as well (more silicone)but no damage to the cams.With more time I'm confident that side would have seized also.Very frustrating.