skagital

OK GD, and all others that posted a reply, first of all I'm heading out to Philly for the holiday be back next month. Everybody have a HAPPY THANKSGIVING, oh yeah it does not have an O2. I searched out and found your write-up on changing over to an SPFI. Alot of good info, and in condsidering going junkyarding to get the required parts. Problem is I can't find it again to print it out so what is it titled under?. thanks again AL

all right, I be checking for O2 and will pull codes this weekend, and get back to ya.

DUH on me, with not seeing any kind of MIL light on the dash I plum forgot all about that. I will do that and thanks for the suggestion,

I've invested enough time in this thing and researched enough info to come to the conclusion its time to do the weber thing, this far up north the wa. state clean air act stops at Snohomish/Skagit county line so no worries with the WA. state clean air act BS. Any rate before going on line to search out autopart suppliers any suggestions on a place to shop, I'm just like the rest of you good folk, moneys tough to come by... thanks AL

it's a feedback carb for sure, model DCZ-328, yeah I sprayed gunk all around the vac lines/fittings no change in engine runability. thanks for the help AL

10/4 double and triple checked the installation, and than I redid the whole evolution one more time just to make sure I got it right. Appreciate the imput... thanks AL

good idear, as soon as the weather clears I check it out. thanks AL

I'm gonna hold off for a bit (not to long though) and see what other info I can gain from USMB. I hate to throw a carb at the thing until I'm certain its the cure. I appreciate the bad news though, its better than pulling any hair out of this bald head of mine

yes the carb is a Hitachi feedback. I had the carb apart and installed a Napa brand carb kit. just rechecked and readjusted float per the instructions today. I checked the ignition wires for resistance and they come in around 6K ohms per foot of lead. no cracks in the distributor cap and rotor appears to be fine. I replaced the coil due to the electrode being corroded and seperated from the coil tower. Last week I took a vacuum reading it was about 17 in HG and read late timing in which I retimed the engine. I did not recheck with the vacuum gage.

Friends, here is my story, I just completed replacing the cracked heads on my barnyard wagon and it runs terrible. Prior to dissassembly I took a bunch of pictures of the engine assembly and put the thing back together the bests I can tell. So at any rate here's what I need help with. 1)engine does not idle smoothly 2)intermittently misfires under load and has a tendency to ping 3)alot of carbon build-up/fouling on the plugs 4)I hate all the vacuum lines 5)will not exceed 55-60 mph on flat ground, does ok going downhill 6)if I cannot find a solution to the exsiting drivability issues I am considering going with the aftermarket weber carb conversion. 7)did I mention I hate all the vacuum lines any help, suggestions, idears would be greatly appreciated. I would really like to use this vehicle but I am at wits end... thanks AL:( :-\