EVOthis
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Posts posted by EVOthis
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The large hose coming off the Mass Airflow sensor works great. Grab one from the yard and you have two PVC Hoses, just cut to length.
Thats Good to know...we all know those PCV's like to crack over the years...
...Thanks for the tip! -
+1^ Usually a fast crank if the belt is broken.
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If it happens to not be the starter. I have seen the battery cables get pretty corroded on these things with high mileage/age. Usually when you wiggle the cable it can intermittently make good contact. you can cut back the insulation a tad on the negative cable and the positive to see if you notice any green corrosion. might be something to look at.
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Just wanted to wish everyone on here a HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
Havent been on here in a while due to other things in my life taking priority. Hope all is well!
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You could always just wrap the ball joint with a roll of duct tape, I kid you not I have seen guys do it with inner DOJ boots before, It was hilarious haha...But yea the dozens and dozens of subaru ball joints I have replaced I never considered re-booting one...Might be worth a shot in the future...
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It's built to take it.
And ya, you guys are cheap skates!! He will never get out of it what he has in it, but this is a nice example of how a car should be built. All parts have been upgraded to be able to handle the power, and for a long time.
Nice car!! Now that you have sold it, what's next??
Thanks man, I only drove it about 1,000 miles a year, I had car at full throttle only a handful of times, I know what the car was capable of, I didnt need to beat it, the guy that bought it got a deal in my opinion. as of now Im just happy paying one car insurance for my Legacy, just a month ago I was paying for the outback, wrx, and legacy, I have been eyeing the legacy sport sedans of the early 90's.
Wicked looking Forester XT BTW -
Thanks for the input guys, your all right, I had it for sale for about two weeks, on craigslist, vehix, and outside of work with a massive sign on it, sold it to a guy and actually made a profit. I'm just curious to see how this kind of car would float with the other Subaru gurus on here.
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Hey guys, I just sold my 2002 WRX, Just trying to get a feel what you guys would pay on here for something of this caliber, take a peek at the list I have below and feel free to chime in... I have poured tons into this bear...
Up for sale is my 2002 World Rally Blue Pearl WRX. First let me start off by saying this car has been extremely meticulously maintained by a Factory trained, ASE certified, Subaru tech. The car gets driven about 1000 miles a year, with my new job I barely have time for it anymore which is what is prompting the sale. Waxed weekly, the vehicle has seen rain twice since my ownership. The vehicle body has 85,000 miles, the Transmission has about 300 miles, and the motor has about 15,000 miles. As of right now the car makes around 600 HP at the motor at about 32 PSI with the alcohol injection, that being said I will list the extensive list of modifications....All Modifications have been professionally done...
ENGINE:
Brand New from Subaru EJ257 STI block and crankshaft
Forged Eagle H-beam cromoly ESP rods
Arias forged Pistons
ARP head studs and rod bolts
Cometic Head Gaskets
Heads have been ported and polished and have a 5 angle valve job with blended bowls.
BRAND NEW NGK 3 steps colder spark plugs
TGV deletes
Hondata Intake manifold gaskets
Walbro 255 lph Fuel pump
Custom 800cc fuel injectors
Aeromotive Red billet fuel rails
Custom fuel system with marshall fuel PSI gauge
Custom welded oil catch can ( recirculates back into the motor )
AR Fabrication custom radiator cooling plate
Front mount oil cooler
TURBOCHARGER/INTERCOOLER/EXHAUST/ ALCOHOL INJECTION:
Garrett Precision GT32S Turbocharger
Precison AS1025 Front Mount Intercooler
Custom 2.5 in. hot side intercooler piping
Custom 3.0 in. cold side intercooler piping
Vibrant performance intercooler couplers with T-Bolt clamps
Custom 3.0 in. cold air intake with BRAND NEW cone filter
Tial 46mm wastegate ( vented to the atmosphere )
Tial 50mm Blow off Valve
Grainger Manual boost controller
IR boost control solenoid
AEM alcohol Injection installed with large nozzle for over 600 HP
AEM alcohol controller
Custom rotated up pipe
3.0 in. downpipe ( v-banded at the turbo )
3.0 in. QTP electric cutout
3.0 in midpipe to a magnaflow muffler
stainless steel turbo oil feed line
TRANSMISSION/ CLUTCH:
BRAND NEW ACT 6 puck sprung race clutch
BRAND NEW ACT race pressure plate
FULLY BUILT PPG GROUP N 5 GEAR STi CLOSE RATIO STRAIGHT CUT GEARBOX ( DOGBOX ) BUILT IN 6 SPEED CASE WITH LOCKOUT REVERSE AND ELECTRIC CENTER DIFF.
Front LSD ( Limited Slip Differential )
NEW STi shifter assembly
NEW Mobil 1 75w90 fully synthetic gear oil
INTERIOR:
Autopower 6 point welded roll cage
Push button ignition system
Factory 6 disc in dash cd changer
PDX tuning wideband Air/Fuel gauge
Prosport Coolant temperature gauge
Prosport Boost gauge
Prosport Oil pressure guage
Prosport exhaust temperature gauge
Prosport oil temperature gauge
( Gauges are housed in an ATI gauge pod on top of the dash)
Custom PDI Tuning Switch
SUBARU All-weather floor mats
AC/DC power inverter
EXTERIOR:
Entire Car is professionally debadged
BRAND NEW World Rally Blue Pearl Paint job
Custom black mesh grill
blacked out headlight housings
Bi Xenon HID kit
Black Lower front lip
STi foglight covers
Rota BOOST Rims wrapped with Fierce UHP tires 245/40ZR17.
Goodridge stainless steel brake lines
painted front calipers
vehicle is lowered on Tanabe DF210 springs
Front brakes have about 90% life remaining and the rear brakes also have about 90% remaining, the tires have over half there life left. This car still has the Air conditioning retained and it blows ICE COLD. This car is in phenomenal shape. Please dont hesitate to contact me with any questions. Send me a private message or please text/ call me at 484 888 0268. Thanks for your interest- A.J
FOR SALE BEST OFFER!
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I have seen sticking relays cause this problem, however if both fans are doing it, considering they are run on separate relays I would doubt 2 relays would stick at once...
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Also check for excessive corrosion in the battery cables, most noticeably the ground which grounds back at the bolt that goes through the transmission bell housing.... I have seen this cause odd issues more times than once...
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AC clutch wires?
Yea I'm going through my mind thinking what else is there besides the AC compressor haha....My first thought was the coil pack though thats not to the right of the alt. unless of course your viewing the engine from the drivers side haha...
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Also, These seals are directional so there is a left and right, make sure you get the right one, it will have little arrows on it for the direction of rotation
and usually I also replace the large o-ring as well... -
Thanks.
I made a small video of one of the rear links. Trying to post the link, but it gets all messed up... is liking videos not allowed?
Hope this link works, just one short video:
http://www.youtube.com/user/MyCarIssues
That's the driver side rear, the pass side is the same, as is the passenger side front. It's as if it hangs pretty lose on the top bolt, and you can hear clicks when I'm moving it around.
I will say I have seen worse, Personally, from the thousands I have inspected, I wouldnt say there that that bad... are you getting any kind of noise while driving or do you notice like a top heavy feeling like the car isnt hugging the corners well enough?
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Hello All,
New member, first post, been lurkin for a while. You gotta love forums. I'm involved in the Bimmer community for about 15 years, have learned so much and hope to do the same here. We (my wife) has an 06 Outback wgn, 55K miles, 2.5 engine. Went to the dealer the other day for a 9.99 oil change special, couldn't have done it cheaper myself! So, of course as I'm waiting, the SA comes by and says I need new pads on all wheels and resurface the rotors, to the tune of just shy of $800! I start laughing inside, I guess people really say yes to that. Anyway, you know my answer, took the oil change and ran. That said, which pads should I get so I can do it myself? I did a search, and most of what I read was geared more toward high performance. I do want to upgrade the pad, the brakes aren't all that great. I came across Akebono? Not familiar, impressions and what other suggestions may you all have for "regular" style of driving.
Thanks,
Stockybod
Personally when it comes to Subarus I only use OEM, I have had so many problems with NAPA and such and all different types of aftermarket pads ( problems such as fitment, noise etc...), I would go OEM on the pads. As for the rotors, if you pull them off yourself and bring them in to have them machined ( if they are in spec and not rusted/damaged significantly) it should be substantially cheaper, If you decide to replace them I have never really had a problem with aftermarkets here, So I would say aftermarket rotors and OEM pads...
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I have noticed some discrepencies in my haynes manual, the most accurate source of information as mentioned is the FSM... you could do a quick google search of " Subaru Forester FSM"...any specific information your looking for?... you mentioned your having them replaced, are you do the work?
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wow really? That's stupid.. but it does have a bulb behind the switch?[/quote
Ill bet there is a bulb behind there, why Subaru didnt make it serviceable is beyond me, though I do work for them...
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Definately a different car, dont think you will find many of them around with the exception of team orange...I dont know, the AWD standard was the reason I got turned on to Subarus in the first place...
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The bulb/ light for the AC button itself is not serviceable, if that bulb goes out you have to buy another heater control head...I have had numerous ones apart and have never found a way to remove everything so that it will go back together properly to replace that bulb, it actually just went out again in my 96 Legacy the other day...
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Nice find bro!! What a hell of a deal and you were able to run it! Enjoy!
Sounds like a deal to me!
Hopefully its not stolen or something... -
WOW! an 01 with 230k miles and the HG have never been replaced...Perhaps your radiator was just low on coolant, in 2001 you have the SOHC EJ25, 95 % of the HG on these, well really Subarus in general leak externally and for the most part dont really cause overheating problems, Pressure testing the system is a good idea as well as a combustion leak test of the coolant as mentioned...
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Hmm Ive worked on thousands of Subarus and never really recall any modern subaru at least with a ground wire for the radiator...I have a haynes manual also for my 96 Legacy from way back and there is some discrepancy in it...
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literally 10 minutes after posting my above comment my 2000 2.5RS threw a P0325
Yea thats creepy...
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Did you check the Ignition Coil? I have seen lazy o2 / AF sensors cause some odd problems so if the ECU is saying that personally that is prob where I would begin also...the o2 sensor would make some sense to me also fore it reads the exhaust gas when in closed loop ( up at operating temp )...
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First and most important I do not recommend those "kits" at all fore they only give you a gauge for the low side, theres no way to monitor high side pressure while your charging it...unless of course you have a set of manifold AC gauges...Also if you do decide to use it make sure the cap on the little coupler they give you is screwed all the way out and that your putting the coupler on the low side fitting straight otherwise it will not fully seat...
Ready to pull engine!? Can't stop check engine EGR code..
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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As everyone else said those back pressure transdeucers do go bad...I was also going to suggest pulling the EGR pipe off the back of the head and starting up the car to hopefully blow all/ if any carbon out of the head...