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As everyone else said those back pressure transdeucers do go bad...I was also going to suggest pulling the EGR pipe off the back of the head and starting up the car to hopefully blow all/ if any carbon out of the head...

Thats Good to know...we all know those PCV's like to crack over the years... ...Thanks for the tip!

+1^ Usually a fast crank if the belt is broken.

If it happens to not be the starter. I have seen the battery cables get pretty corroded on these things with high mileage/age. Usually when you wiggle the cable it can intermittently make good contact. you can cut back the insulation a tad on the negative cable and the positive to see if you notice any green corrosion. might be something to look at.

Just wanted to wish everyone on here a HAPPY THANKSGIVING! Havent been on here in a while due to other things in my life taking priority. Hope all is well!

You could always just wrap the ball joint with a roll of duct tape, I kid you not I have seen guys do it with inner DOJ boots before, It was hilarious haha...But yea the dozens and dozens of subaru ball joints I have replaced I never considered re-booting one...Might be worth a shot in the future...

Thanks man, I only drove it about 1,000 miles a year, I had car at full throttle only a handful of times, I know what the car was capable of, I didnt need to beat it, the guy that bought it got a deal in my opinion. as of now Im just happy paying one car insurance for my Legacy, just a month ago I was paying for the outback, wrx, and legacy, I have been eyeing the legacy sport sedans of the early 90's. Wicked looking Forester XT BTW

Thanks for the input guys, your all right, I had it for sale for about two weeks, on craigslist, vehix, and outside of work with a massive sign on it, sold it to a guy and actually made a profit. I'm just curious to see how this kind of car would float with the other Subaru gurus on here.

Hey guys, I just sold my 2002 WRX, Just trying to get a feel what you guys would pay on here for something of this caliber, take a peek at the list I have below and feel free to chime in... I have poured tons into this bear... Up for sale is my 2002 World Rally Blue Pearl WRX. First let me start off by saying this car has been extremely meticulously maintained by a Factory trained, ASE certified, Subaru tech. The car gets driven about 1000 miles a year, with my new job I barely have time for it anymore which is what is prompting the sale. Waxed weekly, the vehicle has seen rain twice since my ownership. The vehicle body has 85,000 miles, the Transmission has about 300 miles, and the motor has about 15,000 miles. As of right now the car makes around 600 HP at the motor at about 32 PSI with the alcohol injection, that being said I will list the extensive list of modifications....All Modifications have been professionally done... ENGINE: Brand New from Subaru EJ257 STI block and crankshaft Forged Eagle H-beam cromoly ESP rods Arias forged Pistons ARP head studs and rod bolts Cometic Head Gaskets Heads have been ported and polished and have a 5 angle valve job with blended bowls. BRAND NEW NGK 3 steps colder spark plugs TGV deletes Hondata Intake manifold gaskets Walbro 255 lph Fuel pump Custom 800cc fuel injectors Aeromotive Red billet fuel rails Custom fuel system with marshall fuel PSI gauge Custom welded oil catch can ( recirculates back into the motor ) AR Fabrication custom radiator cooling plate Front mount oil cooler TURBOCHARGER/INTERCOOLER/EXHAUST/ ALCOHOL INJECTION: Garrett Precision GT32S Turbocharger Precison AS1025 Front Mount Intercooler Custom 2.5 in. hot side intercooler piping Custom 3.0 in. cold side intercooler piping Vibrant performance intercooler couplers with T-Bolt clamps Custom 3.0 in. cold air intake with BRAND NEW cone filter Tial 46mm wastegate ( vented to the atmosphere ) Tial 50mm Blow off Valve Grainger Manual boost controller IR boost control solenoid AEM alcohol Injection installed with large nozzle for over 600 HP AEM alcohol controller Custom rotated up pipe 3.0 in. downpipe ( v-banded at the turbo ) 3.0 in. QTP electric cutout 3.0 in midpipe to a magnaflow muffler stainless steel turbo oil feed line TRANSMISSION/ CLUTCH: BRAND NEW ACT 6 puck sprung race clutch BRAND NEW ACT race pressure plate FULLY BUILT PPG GROUP N 5 GEAR STi CLOSE RATIO STRAIGHT CUT GEARBOX ( DOGBOX ) BUILT IN 6 SPEED CASE WITH LOCKOUT REVERSE AND ELECTRIC CENTER DIFF. Front LSD ( Limited Slip Differential ) NEW STi shifter assembly NEW Mobil 1 75w90 fully synthetic gear oil INTERIOR: Autopower 6 point welded roll cage Push button ignition system Factory 6 disc in dash cd changer PDX tuning wideband Air/Fuel gauge Prosport Coolant temperature gauge Prosport Boost gauge Prosport Oil pressure guage Prosport exhaust temperature gauge Prosport oil temperature gauge ( Gauges are housed in an ATI gauge pod on top of the dash) Custom PDI Tuning Switch SUBARU All-weather floor mats AC/DC power inverter EXTERIOR: Entire Car is professionally debadged BRAND NEW World Rally Blue Pearl Paint job Custom black mesh grill blacked out headlight housings Bi Xenon HID kit Black Lower front lip STi foglight covers Rota BOOST Rims wrapped with Fierce UHP tires 245/40ZR17. Goodridge stainless steel brake lines painted front calipers vehicle is lowered on Tanabe DF210 springs Front brakes have about 90% life remaining and the rear brakes also have about 90% remaining, the tires have over half there life left. This car still has the Air conditioning retained and it blows ICE COLD. This car is in phenomenal shape. Please dont hesitate to contact me with any questions. Send me a private message or please text/ call me at 484 888 0268. Thanks for your interest- A.J FOR SALE BEST OFFER!

I have seen sticking relays cause this problem, however if both fans are doing it, considering they are run on separate relays I would doubt 2 relays would stick at once...

Also check for excessive corrosion in the battery cables, most noticeably the ground which grounds back at the bolt that goes through the transmission bell housing.... I have seen this cause odd issues more times than once...

Yea I'm going through my mind thinking what else is there besides the AC compressor haha....My first thought was the coil pack though thats not to the right of the alt. unless of course your viewing the engine from the drivers side haha...

Also, These seals are directional so there is a left and right, make sure you get the right one, it will have little arrows on it for the direction of rotation and usually I also replace the large o-ring as well...

I will say I have seen worse, Personally, from the thousands I have inspected, I wouldnt say there that that bad... are you getting any kind of noise while driving or do you notice like a top heavy feeling like the car isnt hugging the corners well enough?

Personally when it comes to Subarus I only use OEM, I have had so many problems with NAPA and such and all different types of aftermarket pads ( problems such as fitment, noise etc...), I would go OEM on the pads. As for the rotors, if you pull them off yourself and bring them in to have them machined ( if they are in spec and not rusted/damaged significantly) it should be substantially cheaper, If you decide to replace them I have never really had a problem with aftermarkets here, So I would say aftermarket rotors and OEM pads...

I have noticed some discrepencies in my haynes manual, the most accurate source of information as mentioned is the FSM... you could do a quick google search of " Subaru Forester FSM"...any specific information your looking for?... you mentioned your having them replaced, are you do the work?

Definately a different car, dont think you will find many of them around with the exception of team orange...I dont know, the AWD standard was the reason I got turned on to Subarus in the first place...

The bulb/ light for the AC button itself is not serviceable, if that bulb goes out you have to buy another heater control head...I have had numerous ones apart and have never found a way to remove everything so that it will go back together properly to replace that bulb, it actually just went out again in my 96 Legacy the other day...

Sounds like a deal to me! Hopefully its not stolen or something...

WOW! an 01 with 230k miles and the HG have never been replaced...Perhaps your radiator was just low on coolant, in 2001 you have the SOHC EJ25, 95 % of the HG on these, well really Subarus in general leak externally and for the most part dont really cause overheating problems, Pressure testing the system is a good idea as well as a combustion leak test of the coolant as mentioned...

Hmm Ive worked on thousands of Subarus and never really recall any modern subaru at least with a ground wire for the radiator...I have a haynes manual also for my 96 Legacy from way back and there is some discrepancy in it...

Yea thats creepy...

Did you check the Ignition Coil? I have seen lazy o2 / AF sensors cause some odd problems so if the ECU is saying that personally that is prob where I would begin also...the o2 sensor would make some sense to me also fore it reads the exhaust gas when in closed loop ( up at operating temp )...

First and most important I do not recommend those "kits" at all fore they only give you a gauge for the low side, theres no way to monitor high side pressure while your charging it...unless of course you have a set of manifold AC gauges...Also if you do decide to use it make sure the cap on the little coupler they give you is screwed all the way out and that your putting the coupler on the low side fitting straight otherwise it will not fully seat...