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heartless last won the day on July 19

heartless had the most liked content!

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About heartless

  • Rank
    Do YOU Subaru?
  • Birthday 11/09/1963

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    North Central Wisconsin
  • Interests
    cars (both real and models) reading, animals, computers...many and varied other things
  • Occupation
    FT Student
  • Ezboard Name
    same - heartless
  • Biography
    mistress of all trades, master of none - Know a little bit about a lot of things, and a whole lot about nothing.
  • Vehicles
    2002 Forester with 259,000 miles and counting

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  1. check under the drivers seat... IIRC that is where the TCU was on the 90 LS that I had.. possibly under the carpet... it has been a long time tho, so I could be wrong
  2. my 2002 Foz has 15" wheels stock.. cant imagine the the 2003 being much different. the thing to be aware of is spring perch clearance.... if the car still has the stock struts/springs on it, you may run into issues there - but that can be handled by mounting smaller diameter (ie: sidewall) tires to stay close to the stock diameter.
  3. it is not uncommon for the pinch bolt that holds the ball joint in place on the knuckle to break.. happens all the time in salt use areas. then begins the fight to get the broken bolt out.. usually with knuckle replacement being the end result. Being you are in CA, you probably wont have a major issue.
  4. maintenance history is top priority.. timing - did the whole job get done (ie pulleys, tensioner, water pump, etc) or just the belt? and when? oil changes done on time? any history of overheating? headgaskets ever been done? if so, when? Personally - and this is my thing - any new to me vehicle that I dont have a complete maintenance history automatically gets a full timing service, oil change, radiator flush & fill, new NGK plugs, wires if needed (also NGK) and all other fluids checked/changed as needed right off the bat. I then check brakes - condition and wear and replace as needed. Tires are another thing to check.. all the same brand, size, etc.. wear and condition?
  5. the constant flashing is not "normal" by any means, and is either indicating an additional problem that has not set a proper code yet, or possibly an ECU failure of some kind my question to you is - the MAF sensor you installed - is it a genuine Subaru part, or aftermarket? If aftermarket, that could very well be the source of your troubles.. the car does not like/is not happy with that part - something about it is incompatible with the car. and again.. this is a 27 year old car.. things do not last forever.
  6. as an aside.. you should NEVER disconnect the battery with the key in the on position.. that is just asking for trouble. codes will clear with the key turned off, then disconnecting battery
  7. Honestly, I don't think it is a question of caring at all.. more likely she has little experience and has not been taught HOW to search for things outside of what the immediate computer screen shows her. How many times have we all complained about parts store people not knowing how to look something up outside of the computer? Those stores still have actual printed books, but very few know how to actually use them. To a lot of these "kids" if it isn't in the computer, it doesn't exist... but get someone with the experience and they pull out the books and go old school. I recently had the enjoyable experience of finding a younger person that HAD been taught how to search outside of the computer while trying to find the correct oil filter for the old tractor (1954) we recently purchased. (and yes, I got the correct filter!)
  8. there is a rubber section in between the main pulley (part that was left on your car) and the outer part that carries the belts. the rubber gets old & brittle over time and fails.. in your case it failed completely, the outer portion came away and the accessory belt polished up the remaining part. It does happen.
  9. the crank pulley is one bolt thru the center - the one that holds it in place on the end of the crank - and you should be able to reuse the bolt you have. there are no other bolts associated with it. yes, simply unbolt what is there (takes some effort & you will need to keep the engine from turning over, as the torque is high) and install the replacement.. re-torque, put accessory belts on & adjust those.. done
  10. ummm, yeah.. that don't look right looks like perhaps the rubber failed, the outer part came off, and the belt wore the remaining part smooth
  11. yup, transmission line for sure.. probably looking at a new radiator of the metal that hose attaches to is rusted out.
  12. i guess my question is why are your revving it that high with the clutch in anyway?
  13. other half has an 06 LL Bean version.. body & interior are basically the same.. but his has the 6cyl.. Nice cars actually. rear suspension bushings tend to be an issue on them. don't write off the motor until you have actually driven it.. it might be fine if it was cared for. my EJ251 has 261K and still going strong.
  14. why do you need to reset? if you just need to clear codes for things that have been fixed, disconnect the battery for about a half hour or so. If the problem(s) setting the codes have not been fixed, the codes will just come back, so resetting is not going to work for long.