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heartless last won the day on July 10

heartless had the most liked content!

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About heartless

  • Rank
    Do YOU Subaru?
  • Birthday 11/09/1963

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    North Central Wisconsin
  • Interests
    cars (both real and models) reading, animals, computers...many and varied other things
  • Occupation
    FT Student
  • Ezboard Name
    same - heartless
  • Biography
    mistress of all trades, master of none - Know a little bit about a lot of things, and a whole lot about nothing.
  • Vehicles
    1995 Legacy L wagon, w/strut lift

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  1. ok, I personally do not know how to test the ABS sensors.. or even how to retrieve the codes for that system.. I would start by downloading the service manual for your year from here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ there should be some diagnostic info in that to help you further.
  2. there is no guarantee the cheap one is going to last 5 yrs either.. stop nit picking and clutching at straws.
  3. who told you it was a bad sensor causing the light? there are any number of things that can cause the ABS light to come on. a bad sensor is just one of them a quick check of wiring would be a good place to start - fairly common for one that old to have damaged wires going to a wheel sensor
  4. Yes, it does.. there is parasitic drain on the battery all the time that it is hooked up.. clock memory, various other computerized bits drawing small amounts of power all the time, running or not. The more computerized stuff there is in the vehicle, the more drain there is, the shorter the life of the battery. Heat and cold also affect battery life - even when they are not in actual use. what is with people always thinking they should buy the cheapest thing they can find, then whine & complain about it not lasting or working right? Buy a quality battery of the correct size, take care of it (ei: keep your charging system in good order) and it will last at least as long as that Walmart special, most likely longer.
  5. technically, yes, the tread depth will affect circumference - but.. it is the overall circumference that will affect the tranny operation - you want all 4 tires to be within 1/4" maximum. a donut spare is NOT going to be the same circumference as a regular tire - even if the tread depth is the same you can have two different tires with the exact same tread depth, yet still be different in measured circumference - this happens frequently with different brands - which is why it is always recommended to have all 4 tires be the same brand, model and treadwear on a Subaru.
  6. put the spare on the back - front tires should match, and run with the fuse in place - short term only. fwiw - tread depth has little to do with how the tranny copes - it is circumference that you should be concerned with - the distance around the tire.
  7. do keep in mind that under that rubber liner is the access for the rear strut mounts.. you do not want to make it difficult to get in there in the future.
  8. LOL, being as you are new here, you have no idea how funny this is to those of us who have been here a long time.. trust me, He was being gentle... in all seriousness tho.. the stock bracket is just a stamped metal piece that bridges the tower and holds the speaker.. there is no such thing as acoustically sealing a speaker in a Subaru. In fact, I don't know of any vehicle - unless it is a really high end luxury boat (Bentley? Rolls Royce?) - that does such a thing.
  9. no, the OEM bracket does not acoustically seal the speaker in the strut tower.. it simply holds it in place. this ain't your high end home stereo system here.
  10. there is supposed to be a bracket that the speaker mounts in, if I am not mistaken..
  11. add to that age/heat hardened ones.. they don't seal anymore. it is worth the few bucks to buy and replace vacuum lines if it has not been done. just buy several feet of the appropriate sizes and cut to length using the old ones as a guide
  12. rear wiper has the potential to be seized up.. if it is not used regularly the shaft will corrode in the housing and has to be completely disassembled to free it up again... not a super hard job to do, but rather time consuming with about a 50% chance of getting it working again (as long as the motor isnt burned out). for the front washer.. check that there is enough fluid in washer fluid bottle.. also check the wiring going to the little pump attached to the bottle. If you have a test light or volt meter, get a helper to push the button and make sure power is getting to the pump. If that checks out ok, then you may need to replace the pump. you should be able to find all related service manual materials in the link I gave above to help you diagnose further.
  13. also, if the fluid is dark in color, it should be flushed/replaced... brake fluid should be clear. as it gathers moisture it turns dark