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Thanks man I was looking at that thread earlier, however It really didnt give me any acurate answers...:/

Before I start I know this question prob. would be better suited for NASIOC or something so I may post there also...That being said, I am installing the AEM meth kit in my 02 WRX and had a question about tuning...I am told by a few tuners I should be safe running the system without a tune for a little while ( I know the performance gains will be substantially reduced). I was thinking the other day, without a tune when the meth sprays would it be rich enough of an AF ratio to wash my cylinder walls? I asked a Subaru tuner about this and he replyed "that I was not adding more fuel to the combustion chamber so no it will not wash my cylinders." I know my wideband will prob. be reading like 8:1 A/F...Any input here guys. I know there are some seriously smart people on here..someone has to have some info... ...New fully built motor in there so I'm taking every precaution possible and asking every question I have before I start to spray...lol...thanks in advance for any input.. * I will be running a 50/50 water/meth/alcohol mixture...

+1 ^...with a fast crank like you mentioned I would be checking the t- belt first......

Thanks for the link cougar...I've always wondered what actually caused this failure...fore I've seen dozens of these clocks fail on the overhead console foresters and in dash imprezas...much appreciated...

How does the pedal feel to her? spongy, hard ?? The "brake" light will come on for low fluid level in these cars..there is a little electrical connector/sensor at the bottom of the resevoir in the master cylinder. I doubt this is the problem but try this..Pump up the brake pedal with the car off, than start the car with your foot on the brake pedal and if the pedal sinks the power booster is good, If not, well we will cross that bridge when we come to it...Like I mentioned I dont believe this is the problem but as you know it is difficult to diag. over the internet fore we cannot feel/see/touch the car..

Personally I don't really fancy the looks of the older (06-07) body style (specifically the headlights) . I love the 08-09 though. There hasn't really been to many recalls we've noticed with them as of yet..a couple of reprograms for throttle response and harsh shifting and a g sensor recall on some of the newer models...However I think overall there a great vehicle. I can say We've also noticed some problems with the original batteries in them, However nothing to major like the plauged HG problems of the 2.5 SOHC engines in the early 2000's. I can also say I love the sound of the engines in them. That distinctive H6 sound. I will say this. Look out when it comes time to replace wiper blades..over $100 we charge for all three. ( the front ones are around $50 a piece) I know I know absolutely ridiculous..So an easy way around it...Just replace the inserts..

Check down inside the + wire from the battery to starter..I'm thinking maybe some corrosion got into the wire itself, It might be time to replace it, same deal with the grounds...

Kudos If you can get them done in 10 min. If you can get the battery out, washer resevoir out,air box out, etc.. coil packs out, and plugs out, and everything reinstalled in 10 min. I give you serious kudos. I work for Subaru, So all day every day nothing but Subarus and even with air tools I cant get a set of plugs done on a WRX in under 10 minutes..."strong with the force young skywalker is"...

I usually use a huge pry bar and sometimes hammer on the end of it...usually pops loose..Is this an Automatic or Manual? Are you sure everything is disconnected/unbolted? also, Try soaking the dowel pins with a little PB Blaster or something...

Personally If your replacing the rotors I would be hammering the hell out of the old ones...seriously...Not to much you can damage there with the exception of the e-brake shoes...I've done hundreds of brake jobs on Subarus and either they have the threaded holes or I beat them off with a hammer and Ive never ran into a problem yet....

My thought exactly..

The CEL will illuminate obviously because the ECU has detected a fault, The cruise light comes on because when the CEL illuminates it disables the cruise control...A shot from the hip is that your gas cap is loose...My bet is its an EVAP leak code in the ECU..

Yes. I've replaced dozens of them.. Make absolute sure that the inner tie rods are ok before you go replacing the boot..When it comes to PA state inspection they will fail you for a bad tie rod, and the last thing you want to do is remove the new boot and replace the tie rod not far down the road.Where are you located in the Lehigh Valley? How many miles are on this vehicle?

Kind of sounds like a project to me... I assume if your looking for such a car pick her up...

Personally I wouldn't touch the car...Warranty should still be good.. take her in...

The whole time I was reading it I was thinking this.. fore the date said 03' ...

I guess it all depends on how sensitive that switch is for the light on the dash to tell you the doors are open and the switch for the overhead light..IF you leave it half latched..yeah..god forbid you get a good rain...MORAL: don't leave the door half latched..lol

Just thought I would throw this up here...In case anyone is interested.. http://southjersey.craigslist.org/cto/1360653487.html I have my hands full with my Legacy and WRX at the moment otherwise I might have to grab this up...

yea..lol..Its a fully built 2.5 STI hybrid motor with a GT32...I have a 46mm Tial EWG lol..Just trying to tweak it up to maybe 27-28 PSI and I'm stuck..The wastegate tables are adjusted where I 'd like them so all i really have left is boost..lol..

Of course you could always by the tool... lol .... http://www.toolplanet.com/product/Neiko-Brake-Line-Bending-Pliers/automotive-service-tool-sets

First let me say I know this would prob be a better posting on NASIOC or ClubWRX or something so I will prob post there also.. anyways...My 02 WRX is tuned OS with Romraider. When I go to try and adjust the target boost table the max boost PSI I can increase to is 24.75 PSI...why is this? Do they figure anything above this you should prob go with a standalone? Is there a user setting I can override/change? I have searched the net for the answer and so far came up dry. Just thought I would throw this Q out there... Thanks in advance..Any insight would def. be appreciated...

I would shake down the front end and do a thorough visual..maybe it tweaked a tie rod or something..

I can say this...Personally from my experience Ive noticed more broken sway bars than bent ones..I'll put dimes to donuts that it will break before it bends significantly...depending on the impact obviously...

+1 ^ Epoxy or JB Weld...