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well, obviously its throwing that code for a reason....have your tried tapping on the MAF with the butt end of a screwdriver with the engine running? does anything happen to the idle than? have you cleared the code? if so has it come back? how many miles are on this vehicle? Any recent maintenance performed? Have you tried cleaning the MAF with some CFC MAF cleaner? have you visually inspected the sensor/hot wire itself?...If its throwing this code I would def. rule out all possibilities of the MAF system/sensor/wiring before searching for anything else....I was also kind of inclined to say crank/cam sensor ( they have been known to cause odd "hic-ups" like this, however you dont have any codes related to those...

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100835&highlight=2010 They are def. a new breed...As i mentioned if you have a chance to get one of these outbacks in the air...basically everything is changed..they also went to a single serp. belt system now...

man..good question..havent run into this yet...you might want to check up over on NASIOC or ClubWRX.net or Craigslist or something...I see guys all the time parting out WRX's...Of course if you go to the dealer they will prob want your first born for them...

+1 ^..also (rarely) they can get a little like corroded or whatnot from age and time...especially if this thing hasnt been moved in 19 years...you could tap on her a little with a mallet or hammer and block of wood.....

How many miles on the vehicle? Any recent maintenance? sticking IAC? shot in the dark...but carboned up TB? ignition coil?..all easy things to check...worth a peak at..As mentioned, I would take some gum cutter (2+2) and with the engine running spray around all intake gaskets/vacuum lines etc etc..and see if anything changes with your idle... Also..MAF sensor...with the engine running tap on the MAF with a butt end of a screwdriver and see if the idle changes or the car dies.....Personally though...I would replace the knock sensor before you go any further with trying to diagnose this idle problem..

+1^ and the cam cap seal on the back of the drivers side head....they do leak with time...Ive seen quite a few....Im glad to hear that everything went well though... EJ22 im assuming?

+1 ^...bought the same one as above for $39 from harbor freight..hasnt broken yet (its been over a year)...I also have one I can read through my laptop with the tactrix cable for the WRX....You could also go out to MATCO or SnapOn and purchase one of there fine scan tools for $6,000.00...

Anyone else had one of these 2010 outbacks in the air yet?..Man..Its different...like liquid filled motor mounts...different locations....pitching stopper is relocated to the like the lower rad. support...the drain plugs are no longer the 17mm...the engine cradle looks welded to the underside of the "frame/side rails"...the starter now looks like a PITA to get too......Man its a completely different monster...no more PDI diag. connector.well...the little fuse in the underhood fuse box is the PDI connector.....I think the 2010 Outback looks alot like the tribeca...

So what happens if you let the vehicle get up to normal operating temp (no AC on)? do the fans kick on and cycle off as normal? or do they just say running or dont come on at all? Its pretty common that a stuck thermostat can throw this code...however as mentioned make sure all air is properly bled out of the system first...what year and model is the vehicle? how many miles? any maintenance history?

Its also helpful that these engines are prob. one of the easiest to pull...As for ebay check out timing componant kits for your make and model year vehicle...Ive seen some kits come with H20 pump, t-belt, tensioner, and idlers....usually just run down to your local dealer and they should stock the cam and crank seals....Personally I would prob also reseal the oil pump and replace the o-ring while you have the thing apart...As mentioned utilize the search function here and it will divulge tons of info....good luck!

Im sorry I was just reading this thread...and I just LMAO ...thanks for that Nipper!

+1 ^ I can say owning a 96 Legacy EJ22 5 spd...that the only major problem I had was the trans...granted it had almost 190,000 miles on it...first the VC started binding than it started popping out of fourth than finally i got a whining noise in 1st gear.. i have 203,000 on it now and it still runs pretty well..considering what is wrong I would prob grab it...look at it this way..if you can find one of those suckers in the JY for parts..youll save yourself some coin also...

good deal...something simple.....as far as i know i have the original rack in my 96 with over 200k miles...It's somewhat rare that these steering racks have problems....

the inside of the steering rack boots should be dry...if your noticing the boot swollen up with fluid or fluid leaking out of the boot im thinking your rack is leaking...the main reason that boot is there is to keep the inner tie rod joint protected from road grime, salt, dirt etc etc not to retain fluid.. have you noticed loss of PS fluid?

I was going to say...most of these belts are interchangeable even if they technically arent the right one... unless of course where talking about the AC belt which changed length when subaru changed to the scroll compressor around 2005...

just make sure the adjusting bolt is all the way loose...Ive had hell with aftermarket belts for my legacy and my wrx i would go OEM...there not much more expensive at all than like NAPA or advance auto...i think we charge 16.74 for the alt belt...and your insured its the correct size...

They have a hydarulic clutch so its automatically adjusted...you could try bleeding it and see if that helps...

and by the looks of it an aftermarket gauge or somesort?...Looks pretty good...I love the way the wagons look lowered...do you have any plans for her?...How many miles? Any service history? hows the tranny?..lol

I would think with the trans mounts you have a pretty wide selection..Im 99% sure the trans mount on my 96 legacy will bolt right into my 02 WRX...So Im going to say you can prob use anything from like 95-03 at least...(manual trans only obviously)....Im sure others will chime in...

I think the rear roof line kind of looks like an Altima...We just got these in at work and man they are something....we've yet to get a GT though...good news is the engine, at least from the looks of it didn't change to terribly much...so the base model 2.5i now comes with an optional 6 spd?...Cool!..

I personally will never again buy NAPA brake pads, shoes, discs anything brake parts....I dont know what it is with there parts but Ive done a few brake jobs on various subarus and either they give me the wrong parts or there the correct parts and they make noise...(yes all properly lubed and everything)...I do not recommended buying NAPA....I would personally go OEM....

How many miles are on the vehicle? manual or auto trans? are you sure its coming from the rear of the vehicle? does it get louder when you increase speed? than faint away when you slow down? so what happens when your cruising along at 50 mph with your foot on the gas and than just all of a sudden take your foot completely off the gas? does the noise go away?

Does it sound like a ticking at all like really loud fuel injectors as you described? Im thinking from the info you provided that your HLA's are loosing prime...Mine started doing this on my 96 Legacy not to long ago and coincidentally i have 203,000 on my legacy as well..

Are you sure its not a wheel bearing sound or maybe a tire?

hopefully the overheating problem is something simple...it's extremely rare to see a phase 1 EJ22 pop a HG...but for $300 seems like a good deal... Just a shot from the hip im going to say the noise from the timing cover is either the t-belt tensioner loosing prime and the belt is starting to rub against the cover or a timing belt idler...good luck with it though it seems like you got a steal...