EVOthis

that is def. a new sensor..that anti seize is the give-away for me....Also as others have mentioned it doesnt look like anyone has ever had a 22mm on it...

+1^

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf ...this might be of some help to you... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-2001-SUBARU-LEGACY-2-2-TIMING-BELT-KIT_W0QQitemZ220393429210QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item220393429210&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318 here is one of the kits...however this doesnt come with H20 pump and such...I have seen kits that have it all cam/crank seals, H20 pump, t-belt, tensioner, idlers, and H20 pump gasket all for like $300 so do some searching youll def. find something...

Well i cant really answer to much of your questions but....where I work...to replace the shortblock (EJ25, SOHC&DOHC) it pays us around 8-11 hours...which i think is terrible...that is pulling the engine, striping it down, bolting everything on the new shortblock and dropping it back in...I do know that there is quite a bit more involved in splitting the case halves...hidden o-rings and bolts and such...If you where to get in there and end up replacing the rods and bearings I would definately go to the dealership for those parts...It would be a phenominal learning experience (ive yet to spit the case halves also) however i tend to think of the labor and parts it might just be cheaper to buy a used, known good shortblock...

your sure its not a loose heat shield?

Did you replace them with New Subaru OEM axles or aftermarket (NAPA etc..) axles? Did you double check everything was tight (axle nut, spring pin inserted all the way? etc...) If the shuddering wasnt there before you installed the axle and it is present now than its either something you detached or the axle itself...how exactly did you replace the axle...(unbolt the strut?, undo the castle nut on the ball joint/sway bar link bolt? undo the LCA mounts?)

there really not that bad to replace...im guessing the reason they quoted you 2.5-3 hrs. labor is because that is book time...im sure they can get it done in under 3 hrs....If you do decide to tackle the job yourself be careful because alot of things rust under there especially for being 13+ years old and hoses get brittle...

Paid $700 for my 96 Legacy EJ22 5 spd...Granted it needed like thousands in repairs...

check with cobb...I actually had an 07 forester the other day with cobb front and rear sway bars and it had cobb mounts for the sway bar bushing brackets...(the piece that attaches to the frame)...

You could prob. bring up some sort of lawsuit if they did work to your car and they gave you an improper estimate and now there demanding you pay...I would be furious...

Just thought I would throw this in here...just hope they dont start loosing pressure due to corrosion around the bead...than you have to dismount the tire, take a die grinder to the corrosion and throw some bead sealer on there....extremely common problem on some of the older outbacks and such...

something isnt right here...an 07 Subaru with 8k miles and a toyota battery???...did they run a carfax for you before you bought the car?...I would be intrested to see the history....

uh oh...I see accident history...

Wow...$3000...Personally I think thats kind of high....especially for a car with like 170k miles plus the work it needs done....as said it might sound like a good price for your region though...I just know I prob. wouldnt pay $3000...Im frugal...

Wow...didnt know it was getting a CVT...man that thing looks so....modern...

sounds like hes really upfront...thats good...If I where you I would bring a scanner with me..just to make sure he isnt lying about the CEL code ...otherwise the things you mentioned are pretty easy to replace on the 2.2...How much is he asking?

wow...an outback with an EJ22...good find....How many miles are on the car?...Personally I would check for things like torque bind (yes this does happen to the manual trans too)(do a search here youll find tons), recent maintaince, and pretty much do an inspection of the car...lights,boots,brakes,tires,suspension,exhaust etc.. im sure others will chime in....good luck

lol...good luck...i would go to a u pull it yard and try and find a low mileage car to grab it out of...I know subaru wants like $700 for some of the newer ones...

I dont believe you can replace the u joint....they are a non-serviceable item in subarus (no grease fittings or anything so they wear out)..Time to get another driveshaft....at least this is the way it is for the later models say 95-up...Id bet its the same for the early legacies also...

Im just saying ive seen modern Subarus with the Entire system filled with PS fluid...and not have any problems

There are conditioners in the ATF...It doesn't really matter....Subaru's PS racks are compatible with either fluid ( I know Subaru recommends ATF though)....or at least all the ones ive ever seen....I believe the system takes about .75 qt...so 1 quart should be enough to properly bleed the system and top her off....

I know dude...It looks so intimidating...lol...I think its going to be a phenominal race...I will def. have someone there taking video....

besides the timing chain tensioner and idler pulley bearings going...valve cover gaskets on the EZ30's have a tendency to leak....also Ive seen quite a few TPS go bad on these....Overall I think its a phenominal engine though...Ive seen a few with over 200k.....

wow...thanks for that fellas...i always wondered how that could be done...

thats ok....it might be a bear to pull out...but at least you dont have an 85 bolt timing cover like the EZ30's some bolts of varying lengths...