EVOthis

It all depends how long you let the trans drain....for mostly every 5MT Subaru ive replaced the trans gear oil in...ive added 3.3 qts....and it brings it up to the full line on the dipstick almost perfectly...and yes i do let it drain for some time...lol...

http://www.smart-service.com/index.html ...I hear these guys get a good reputation...

If your sure you need new struts...Personally I go with Monroe's from NAPA...they work great for me...However I have heard some good things about the KYB-GR2's...Of course you could always go OEM..the extremely expensive route...

Im not sure if you bent the P/S line at all..or even moved it slightly...those lines are extremely touchy...example..I did a radiator and thermostat the other day on an 04 STI and all i did was bend the PS line out of the way a tiny bit...threw the rad. in and started her up to take her for a cruise..the PS was whining like theres no tomarrow...what i found out was there is a small o ring on top of the PS resevoir that ruptures somewhat if that line is even moved the slightest bit...obviously this lets air in the system....personally I would have def. replaced that little o-ring before purchasing a new pump....We see this ALOT.....Just mentioning for future reference...

Did you install a new OEM thermostat when you replaced the H20 pump and t-belt?...personally i would wait for the car to get up to operating temp (according to your dash gauge) and the fans to come on....and than see if they turn off....If they dont turn off....and your 100% sure youve properly purged the system of air...i would look into either a stuck thermostat or clogged radiator...but you said you had clear water flowing out of the radiator so my bet is you have a stuck thermostat...also make sure the upper and lower hoses are hot....How many miles are on this vehicle?

This could also be worn/damaged trailing arm bushings....

ok...so the fans kick on when there supposed to..do they eventually shut off?..

ah yes..there a few excellant threads on adding a tach to the brighton model..do a search i know youll find something...I just replaced the tach head in my legacy and went soley off the instructions on here...ah here we go... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2529&highlight=tach+head..as mentioned mileage would be helpful...What kind of upgrades did you have in mind...power upgrades? audio upgrades? etc...

Where you replacing the struts or something also?...I guess why Question is why did you have to unbolt the strut to remove the trans....when it comes to the axles i find it easiest to undo the castle nut from the ball joint and unbolt the 14mm bolt on the sway bar end link...you can knock the control arm loose and pull the axle out that way....but sorry...as to your question...Personally i would get an alignment for $70..its worth it to me to have proper tire wear....

If your looking into a dealership....I hear rafferty subaru in Newtown Sq...gets a pretty good rep...Personally im a tech down at Matt Slap Subaru In Newark....and not to sound arrogant or anything but from what ive read we get a pretty good rep too...other than a dealership i cant really think of anywhere.....

Man...You have a good selection of cars...a 360, WRX, 91 SS...Id like to see that legacy all hocked up...here is something you might find intresting....was poking around a while ago and thought it was pretty cool... http://video.aol.com/video-detail/drag-race-subaru-legacy-supercharged-turbocharged/528780576/?icid=VIDURVAUT08 ...Romraider is definately the way to go..Thats what i use on my REX...It kind of worries me every time I flash the car with a new MAP....Ive read all i can on Romraider and every tuning aspect of it...Its just you know one wrong move and your looking into costly repairs...especially with a freshly built hybrid 2.5 in it.....any websites or anything you used to brush up with tuning? I absolutely refuse to bring my car in to someone else to tune it...I at least know if I screw it up its in my hands.....

Next time you hear the sound...try and figure out which area of the vehicle it is coming from...Is your ABS light on?...I believe there was a TSB for some of the Valve Relay's sticking in the ABS system for the 96 Legacy..not to sure if that applies or not here...even if it doesnt some of those relays have a tendency to stick...That should throw the ABS light on though...How many miles are on the car?

Well thats good quiet and more environment friendly...I think 5k is a little steep though...even if it is a subaru with only 22k miles....

Ah yes...I believe these are two stroke....they do look awfully fun though...man 22k miles...someone actually drove that on a public road?...I would be scared out of my mind....

If your asking my opinion...I would keep the H6...phenominal engine...and only those two problems....well if you had a standard 2.5 03 Legacy I can def. say you would prob have had many more severe issues than a FP and a Belt...HG cough cough...But yes sorry dont mean to get off on a tangent....I would keep the H6....

Im not sure how much you paid...i could be mistaken but i believe those little remotes are like $80-$100 from the dealer...at least there easy to program... http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/interior-mods/66863-subaru-keyless-remote-programming-instructions.html

Tuned opensource huh...Are you using Romraider?...Sounds like you have some serious plans..you know along these lines i have been thinking for a while to open a thread on my REX....I just got done installing a 6 pt cage and push button ignition...hmmmm....isnt boost addictive?

just thought of something....be careful when you detach the connectors from the back of the cluster...some of them break easily...just a heads-up...

Thanks for the heads-up...

Looks good man!...I love the upper strut tower brace...is it a Cusco?

You should be able to do this yourself...You have to pull the instrument cluster...i believe there is only 1 bulb for the tachometer...however if your going to be pulling the whole cluster i would replace all 4 (1 for each gauge)...Your local dealer should have the bulbs you need...Its a pretty simple job...do a search on here if im not mistaken there was a pretty good write-up about removing the cluster to put a tach head in...that should be of some assistance...

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90182&highlight=input+shaft+seal Was this the thread you read?...I thought this was a great tutorial...The only thing i can tell you about the bolts on the case is this....i have personally never done this job but i have done countless viscous couplers by pulling the tailhousing off...as for the torque spec ive never really looked one up...for the 14mm's that hold on the tailhousing I just use my 3/8 impact and snug them up...have never had a comeback from one yet...knock on wood...hope this helps....good luck with the job...

:lol::lol:... thanks man thats just what i needed

I guess you could also try bleeding it....I dont really see how air could get in the system though if it was not opened...:-\

do you have a cable clutch or hydraulic?...im thinking cable.....I dont know if the hydraulic clutches are the same...but on my 96 legacy at the end of the clutch pedal down under the dash there is a spring that keeps the pedal feel the same as the pressure plate wears....i suppose there is a chance this spring could have broken...I had my buddy drive my legacy and he said my clutch feels weird...and I just put a brand new clutch kit in it and clutch cable...It turned out the spring was broken...I never really got around to replacing it because all it does is keep the pedal feel the same....Thats all i can think of at the moment....