EVOthis

For the time and money your going to spend...Personally I would find a good used one...They can be found inexpensive....

+1^... I never understood Subarus intentions when it came to the Gen. 2 EGR systems( as to which vehicles had them and which didnt)....I have a 96' Legacy manual w/o EGR...

you can try blowing some compressed air in/around the switch...sometimes the contacts get dirty and cause this...but as you mentioned..My bet is the switch is burned out....

http://www.viper.com/ I hear these get a really good rep...

How many miles are on the vehicle? Assuming you've checked the ATF level/condition?

No Prob. Man..glad you got it working...Yeah i just found that link a few months ago when i joined ClubWRX.net...

Your cycling the key really fast right? and ending in the lock position... Do you get the horn to honk at all?

personally ive heard the new 2010 base legacy will have the EZ36 which is in the 07-09 Tribecas...than again that could be a "rumor"...I cant imagine subaru having that 3.6 in there base model legacy though....

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/interior-mods/66863-subaru-keyless-remote-programming-instructions.html

Our master tech told me the other day that the 2010 Legacy will be on the Tribeca Chassis...i think thats going to look kind of "abnormal" but well see i guess....

+1^... aftermarket clutches are just fine...actually the ones Subaru dealers (at least my dealer) use are exedy clutch kits...they can be found for much cheaper than the dealer...also i dont know about your dealer but down where i work according to the parts dept. you cant just order a "clutch kit" you have to order everything seperate...clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing etc...i think its ridiculous....

should be cable clutch....i know you made another thread about how you wanted something moderatley performance oriented...Ive been thinking about that...if i were you i would go with the stock replacement clutch i think i bought an exedy from autopartswarehouse.com ....it was inexpensive maybe a few hundred for the kit...anyways the reason i say this is...my experience with stock clutchs up until now has been phenominal...i bought a wrx a few months back..did some (ok, alot..lol) of modding up and right now the engine is tuned to 500+ HP and somewhere around 420lb ft of torque at around 24 PSI...the origional stock clutch is still in the car....and on some miracle whim that clutch is holding my power ( i know it sounds impossible)....i have been running around for the better part of 6 months now...and have hit the throttle numerous times for datalogs/ tuning sessions and it hasnt failed yet...i feel that clutch doesnt owe me anything...anyways sorry for the "write up"..just thought i would give you my "updated" opinion..lol...

+1^..I bought my 02 WRX a few months back and the first thing i did before i even considered buying the car was called my insurance company...i only have liability on the car now but i have been thinking about full coverage..anyways my liability a month for that thing is only like $50...and im 21!..thankfully they dont ask if the vehicle is modded or stock...cause right now the engines puttin out like 500HP...:lol: Good luck with the buy though they are amazing cars....

I think price also depends on weather its SOHC or DOHC (SOHC can be done in the vehicle DOHC almost always requires engine removal)...we charge i believe anywhere from like $1500-$2000...Knowing the extent of the job we do compared to somehwhere else i would personally say that could be a reasonable price especially if they are sending the heads out to be checked...or doing it themselves...

+1^..Definately go OEM...i cant imagine the price difference to be that astronomical between autozone or NAPA or whatever and the dealership....

well first...how many miles are on the car? +1^..i have seen a few threads here before about the knock sensor position...i believe the connector that is on the sensor is supposed to kind of be angled toward the P/S rear towards like bell housing but on angle like toward the flywheel inspection cover...i cant remember the torque spec but its not like a ridiculous amount so be careful...these knock sensors are prone to cracking on the underside of the sensor which is likely what caused it to fail...as said i would definately not immediately be throwing red flags at the head dropping a valve guide without further inspection of the "less intrusive"parts (spark plugs,wires,fuel injector etc...)...which i doubt they even did considering they wanted more cash for diag...

+1^...with that kind of mileage (even on a Subaru Phase I EJ22) its hard to tell whats going to go and whats not...If you ask me it all depends how much hes will to take for the car...as said i prob. wouldnt go above like $500-$600...

well when it comes to intakes and power mods on the 08 and 09 models personally, i have heard the ECU doesnt take well to them...not to sure the problem because the 02-07's had no real issues...anyways i would have picked up a WRX or an STI if you wanted power...also if you go modding something that new say goodbye to the warranty...weve had tons of newer cars come in with rod knocks and glowing RED turbos and such only to find out that the 18 year old kid put on all kinds of self installed aftermarket crap and that leads to a voided warranty....so watch what you mod...for more info you could hit up.. http://www.NASIOC.com or http://www.ClubWRX.net ....im sure youll get some better responses there

Just from my experience i have a 96 Legacy with almost 199,000 miles and my car has not had an easy life with some really abusive previous owners...however once i bought the car the only two real half not even major problem i had was the cam seals leaking like a civ...and some torque bind out of the 5 speed...than again what do you expect from a mistreated car with 173,000 miles....but anyways i would definately recommend a 95 Legacy as said with the non-interference EJ22...best engine built by subaru in my opinion...plus there cake to work on should anything go wrong....

which brings us to another question...are you going to be doing them in the car or out...the SOHC's can easily be done in the car in which the DOHC almost always have to be removed from the vehicle...Your RS is the EJ253 SOHC right?...

take a look here...ive heard some good things... http://www.smart-service.com/index.html ...i think its somewhere in the vicinity of Seattle...

or try clubwrx.net..... i still believe a WRX clutch kit wont work...unless you buy the different clutch fork and convert it to a hydraulic clutch...the release bearing for the WRX kind of snaps into the pressure plate fingers as opposed to just riding on the outside of them like your impreza...or i assume you could prob. use your clutch fork with a WRX throwout bearing... either way i wouldnt put to radical of a clutch in there...lol

http://www.advancedclutch.com/ http://www.exedyusa.com/ also check out ebay...i know ive seen some "performance" clutch kits on there...though there quality is questionable because some of the brands seem like "generic" lol....

see that never made sense to me....i personally have never seen a turbo'd boxer 2.5 have HG problems either...im sure it happens....but you would think with all that extra heat and oil and coolant flowing that something would be more likely to happen on the forced induction models...

We had a 2005 Outback the other day cant remember if it was an XT or not i dont think it was ...but anyways the guy complained of the HG's leaking...anyways brought the car in and to all the techs surprise they sure were leaking oil and a small amount of coolant....this is the first 2005 Subaru any of the techs at the dealer i work at have ever seen with HG failure....and only 55k miles....the saga continues....