EVOthis

I could be mistaken but i believe that 97' was the first year of the interference EJ22...

Oh man im not buying it...i already have my hands full with my WRX and Legacy..I was just thinking that among all the Subie-heads on here maybe somebody will jump at it ...to far away from me anyway....

Was just browsing through craigslist and came across..... http://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/978190841.html

if your intrested in more power...i will mention 3 things....1st and foremost a catless uppipe ( Since i work for Subaru ive seen many, many of these pre-cats break up and get sucked into the turbo...bad design on subarus part) after you get that installed...i have had pretty good luck on my 02 WRX with a cold air intake....and finally find a reputable tuner to bring it together...as suggested earlier http://www.nasioc.com is more performance oriented.... also check out http://www.clubwrx.net ...alot of smart people and tons of info on there as well...

As im sure others will mention...check for Torque bind...this is like kind of right at the point( age/milegae) where this starts to show up....I had this problem with my 5 speed in my 96...i have also seen more than a handful at work with this kind of mileage and symptoms of TB.....

Nice looking car man...Also a WRX owner here...

yeah...wow im kind of surprised that you didnt see any fluid coming out of the filler tube or anything...especially if you only drained the pan...

they should be fine....personally i wouldnt buy Sachs brand (bad experience)..you can get a Daikin/Exedy replacement clutch kit for pretty cheap...thats the brand Subaru uses anyway so i figure its got to be around the same OEM quality.....

grossgary- no i work at Matt Slap Subaru in Newark....i think the one in wilmington is Delaware Subaru....

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com Idler Pulley: 23770AA020 Tensioner Assembly:23769AA003 The only thing i have to add is when you get the belt make sure its the same one...there is one that is slightly shorter and one that is slightly longer..the parts dept. mixes them up sometimes...(i believe the smaller one is for when Subaru decided to go to the scroll type AC compressor....)

on this topic...i do notice a clacking noise every single time i do an LOF on H6 that lasts a couple of seconds...i asked our master tech and he said its the timing chian slapping around...apparently most of the time its unharmful....but wow yeah thanks for the info fellas...i will def. be putting a little oil in the filter on the next H6 LOF i do....

Weve seen this a few times...prob. unlikely in your case because you have the Sub. package...but weve had more than a handful of these come in and all 4 of the speakers are blown...if its possible and you have a good speaker lying around it might be worth it to just take one of the door panels off and test a single speaker.....a long shot i guess...but it happens...

yea man...it really puts a smile on my face when im driving in the snow and you pull up to a red light next to a Honda or something and the light turns green and you just look back and see them spinning...

man..i did another one of these things today at work...02 outback...oddly enough the tensioner pulley felt pretty bad... and the idler pulley bearings seized and somehow the bolt for it ended up in the undercover...anyways Parts (as best as i can remember) Customer Price= Idler pulley:$40 Tensioner Assembly:$112 ( i checked with the parts. dept. on this and apparently you cant just get the pulley you have to get the whole tensioner assembly..what a rip...) Serp. Belt: $50

dave1rr put a posting up a few days ago about selling his FSM 4 volume set for 93-96 Impreza's.....maybe try and get in touch with him..he may have some info for ya...

while the belt is off...take a feel/hear/look at the idler pulley...they are notorious for the bearings go bad....weve seen tons of them.....if it doesnt sound/feel to good it might be worth it to replace that pulley along with the belt....i believe its only 1 14mm bolt..and easy as pie to get to.....just a suggestion...

the dealer i work at in Delaware charges anywhere from $800-$1000..give or take depending what is all done besides the clutch kit....

yeah..i know...expensive little suckers...i saw one of the other techs at work the other day do plugs on on H6 outback...he said it was so much quicker and easier with that little diddy....i did not know Gearwrench was coming out with one...thanks for the link Davebugs...

weve had great success using this kind of ratchet.... http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/08/post-snaponswivel.jpg

well as im sure your aware....the WRX transmissions dont get the best rap when it comes to holding power....(yes granted its all about the driver)but weve seen more than a handful shear the teeth right off of mostly first and second gear....Im assuming you want a manual trans....in that case if is possible i think the STI 6 speed and R180 rear end would be a phenominal combo for the H6...i was watching something the other day about a guy named Jeff Perrin who swapped an H6 into his STI and turboed it.... http://mag.subiesport.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=23&Itemid=69

intresting read...thanks man...

well first of all make sure your tires are inflated properly.....how are the condition of the tires? choppy? If i was in your position i would shake down the front end.....3 and 9 for tie rods...12 and 6 for balljoints...and if you have play in both directions well MOST LIKELY its a bad wheel bearing...and if you can get under there too look you could have an assistant shake the wheel and you can see the movement sometimes where the axle meets the knuckle.....

Did you replace the rear main seal while you had the clutch out?(not that they are prone to leaking like the Seperator Plate)...Also are you sure its engine oil your seeing? There is a possiblity that the front input shaft seal for the trans is leaking...that could easily get on your clutch and damage it.... I would get under there, clean everything off really well, and drive it for a few days...than pop back under there and see what youve got.....it would be a shame to pull the trans (again) to find out something else is the problem....

ok...so you already did a compression test.....0 compression?....honestly i would not be driving around like this....seems kind of dangerous to me....especially if the CEL is flashing...that means there is enough unburned fuel getting to the cat. conv. that it could potentially catch fire or blow..lol...is this an EJ22 or EJ25?...also explain when you say highway driving seems OK?