strat

awesome!! can't wait to see your progress.

i run 215/65/16 general grabber's on wrx wheels with no clearance issues on the outback struts. (mine do rub the fenderwell at full lock just a tad) it's the 2nd car i've run this setup on.

gates polychain belts are proven to be stronger than chain and run a hell of alot quieter. also don't have to deal with lubricating them. just something to think about.

damn those pesky neighborhood kids with wrenches... can't wait to see it all back together!

there is a 60H chain which is a heavier version of 60riv chain. your weakest link is the connecting link. also, how are you lubricating the chain? I work at an industrial supply company.

95 Legacy L ~outback struts/springs ~215/65/16 general grabber at2's on wrx wheels ~2.5 rs seats ~outback front bumper ~2.5 dohc swap

if the cam locked up though, you'll have scoring on the cam and the caps/journals in the head (just dealt with one that had the same problem) it could also be caused by improper assembly if the head gaskets had been done recently (mismatched caps/improper torque specs) i took the "replace one head and call it good method and it's running fine so far. you do need to remove the cams as some of the head bolts are underneath the cams. make sure to keep the caps at the proper location on the cams and keep the correct valve buckets in the correct order. (ie lay everything out the way it came off the engine to insure it goes back together correctly)

nice build. i probably would have tried to curve your driver's side exhaust a bit where the two come together to get a smoother transition to the rear (instead of the T that you have currently) as you'll be creating alot of turbulence at the junction.

you'd have to be going pretty fast to actually achieve a ram air effect. the motor draws in alot of cfm by itself and to overcome that to get any kind of force feeding, you'd have to be moving i'd say at least 70mph.

one of them was an h3 judging by the pics... a 4wd vehicle is only as good as it's operator. i'm sure alot of guys out there would laugh at us for wheeling "worthless" subarus.

another helpful tip is to keep the revs down until the car is up to temp.. cold oil = high oil pressure... you can do damage to the bearings in the turbo from this. ALWAYS let your car reach operating temp before romping on it. If I don't have time to let the car warm up before heading somewhere, the car won't see more than 3k rpms until it's up to temp and that is light acceleration and NO boost.

you can also use a hosting site such as photobucket where you can upload and then link to your pics.

highguys do a 3" lift for the ej series legacy's. they have a post down in the vendor section showing a 1st gen legacy clearing 30's

should be the same motor and tranny... just make sure that your ratios are the same between the diff and the trans.

if it's a 4eat (which is should be since he mentions the duty c solenoid) when the awd system transfers power to the rear from the 90/10 split it usually is at, this could be upseting the balance of the car. especially if there is alot of wheel spin with the fronts, the rear tends to engage kinda suddenly.