EVOthis

check your throttle body is cleaned also....not all gummed up with carbon and such..ive seen a few of these problems caused by a simple carboned up throttle plate....

i have a kartboy SS in my WRX...I love it!...just though i would give you a brand to maybe research a little if your in the market for a SS...

WRX clutch...nope....your 97 2.2 impreza should be a cable,push type clutch...the WRX is a hydraulic, pull type clutch...doubt it would work....if you want something thats tough...you could always contact ACT, or Exedy and see if they have anything available....Personally somewhere in the near future ill be putting a clutch in my WRX and was going to go with ACT (only because i cant afford a twin disc exedy...lol..like over $2000!..) I believe ive seen like semi-performance clutches for the 2.5 GT's some places so there could be something out there...

yes CR2032..it should be at least........every battery ive replaced in THOSE TYPES of remotes plus the one i put in my 02 WRX remote is a CR2032...

I love them...i have one on my WRX..its the recirc. type...so no emptying it....hasnt given me a problem yet....plus it dresses up the engine bay kind of nice...

if its the remote with the 2 buttons...1 large to lock the car and the smaller to unlock...yes it should be the CR2032..

+100 for OEM

was the "pop" there before the springs where installed?...is the spring seated properly on the perch and upper strut mount?

+1^... as long as the connectors the same you shouldnt have a problem....

which O2 sensor are you going to replace? I believe the front one has more a chance throwing this code than the rear one but i could vary well be wrong i think it might be the other way around..either way make sure first of all you dont have any exhaust leaks.....Anyways if your going to try replacing the sensors personally i would go OEM for the front one if not both...there are tons of threads on here about aftermarket O2 sensors causing problems and such...as seen...Subarus seem to be touchy when it comes to certain aftermarket componants...O2 sensors being one of them...how many miles are on the car? what year/model? Have the cat. conv.'s ever been replaced?

personally i find the easiest pulley to remove and reinstall is the lower cogged idler pulley....if its a SOHC Subie align you marks on the cams and hold them there with small plastic clamps...thats what i do...same with the DOHC....i believe this makes the job much easier....

well if you say you just did the H20 pump i would def. be looking there...what kind of gasket did you use to seal it? did you use any RTV or anything?...you supposed to use just the subaru OEM gasket and no sealant or anything...

There are quite a few common places that these cars leak....first question i have for you is the car overheating at all?...a ripped CV boot will not cause grease to get sprayed on the exhaust...however a ripped inner DOJ boot will...if they took care of the axle than the new boot shouldnt have ripped within a few thousand miles....i dont know why the mechanic in CA is telling you you need a coolant flush..to replace the oil cooler o-ring its very easy....you dont need to disconnect any coolant lines on the vechicle to do this...after you have the oil filter off there is a thread nut that the oil filter screws onto...unscrew this and the oil cooler sandwhich plate drops down...pop the old gasket out..pop the new in, rescrew the threaded bolt/nut on and throw your oil filter on....if your doing an LOF it takes all of about an extra 10 minutes to do the gasket....personally i believe you have something going on that there not telling you...do you know if the Head Gaskets have ever been done on the car? how many miles are on the car? these subies tend to leak coolant and oil externally and it drips down right onto the Y pipe and the steering rack boots/engine crossmember...however without being there i dont want to go throwing red flags.....if i were you the next time you bring in the car somewhere ask the tech to clean off the entire underside of the car very well and bring it back in a few days and than the source of the leak should be evident....also you said when you opened the hood there was grease/oil in the same spot as before...which spot is this?..if the P/S inner DOJ boot was torn it could be throwing grease all over the cat. convertor.....

Personally i have had good success with a pick for pulling the old seals out....just obviously be careful not to nick the crank snout or cam....I also install the oil pump first then drive the crank seal in....putting a little bit of oil on the inner edge of seal helps out alot....

Ive always been told to drive pretty much any new seal in the same depth as the one you pulled out...but ive also been told to drive seals in until they stop...personally i would feel confident doing it either way....never ran into a problem so far on the dozens and dozens of seals ive done....

Is your P/S pump leaking?...323k miles on your 93 dear lord?. i would definately give a cleaning to your whole engine and come back in a few days and take a look....should pin point it than.....buy a few cans/case of brakekleen and spray the heck out of your whole engine...and if you have compressed air available clean it off with an air gun.....

The hose attached to the valve cover on the 2.2 is the breather hose..i believe....its definately possible that the valve cover gasket can seep alot...but fill the entire cabin with white smoke...i dont know about that....if you see the valve cover gasket leaking i would go ahead and replace it anyway..its cheap and simple.... also i would get under there and clean everything off really well if your def. not sure where the oil leak is coming from....hop back under there in a few days and it should be pretty evident the source of the leak....

Not a Problem Man...Glad Everything Worked Out...

yeah thats a good point...i just find it hard to believe there are people out there that put time into posts like that just to like "screw" people over...lol

First of all if you have a code reader and the CEL is on..read the code....Well brake pads and oil changes as you put it...what was the chance the spark plugs have ever been done (seriously)....You said the vehicle is going in for HG's and all the related seals, timing belt, spark plugs you name it...is it going to get a major maintaince service/tune up while there?? (30k,60k,90k etc...)...Personally if the CEL doesnt come back on before you drop it in for service i would wait until after you have all the work done before you condemn anything...Its prob.due for a good tune up....

+1 I would def. change it if you dont remember when you last did...I know Subaru recommends changing it every 30k miles....Ive drained quite a few diff's with some significant amounts of metal on the drain plug and some seriously dirty like almost black gear lube...

Two washers??? On Every Subaru Caliper I have ever replaced so far..there is a copper washer on each side of the banjo bolt for the brake caliper fluid line if that is what your referring to...

man you where reading my mind...i guess if they figure they put all that money into the car things wont break...lol...

i believe my legacy has 15 inch wheels....

Well you said your going to be selling the car?...if thats the case or even if its not...i would try NAPA.....ive gotten tons of parts off of them for my Legacy and only once have they steered me wrong... was when i got the wrong radiator....other than that..great prices...at least at the one i go to..... here are the ones for my 96...so i know they have them..but i dont need them though..lol.... http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=UP&PartNumber=AE10794PB&Description=Emergency+%22Parking%22+Brake+Shoes