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I've done the same thing many many times...works like a charm... As mentioned just be careful....

A search might be of some assistance to you also about the instrument cluster bulbs..Its a pretty simple job..I know there is a thread on here about it from a while ago...

Good to hear! .. ...I thought I have been seeing and unusual amount of newer Subarus on the road..

My first bet from the info you've given is skipped/broken t-belt...

Is the CEL on? How many miles are on the vehicle? As mentioned HG's arent nearly as a common problem on the 2.2 as the N/A 2.5's however its not out of the question...Do you notice any external leakage from the HG area? Has the car overheated at all? Does the vehicle start?

You said it threw a code for reduced cat. conv. efficiency..P0420? I would be taking the car back to the dealer for a warranty repair for that one...Those cats are warrantied for something like 8 yrs/80k miles, Or if your vehicle is an 06' It might still be under the manufacturers warranty of 3 yrs/ 36k miles....This is what I would be checking into first.... I do have a Tactrix cable for my WRX which is obviously tuned by Romraider OS..I'm all the way over by Philadelphia PA though..

You could always pirate the ECU with Romraider..Thats what I've done on the WRX, however it takes a lot of knowledge to properly tune..lol..I'm still learning..

NICE! ..Keep us posted...

NICE! I love the forester XT's...What other mods are you planning? Are you tuned?

I'm just throwing this out there...You are aware when you disconnect the battery or clear the codes in these newer Subarus. the first time you attempt to start the car it wont start...its a feature of the system...however on the second or third attempt it should turn over and start. I'm assuming you've tried to start the car multiple times with the wire attached?

Which handle are we talking about the one where the lock is or the one where the window/power door lock controls are...I'd be interested to see exactly how you did it..lol..nonetheless I am glad you got it off..You do a couple and it will be second nature...

There are either 2 or 3 screws holding on the door panel...do you see the black plastic plate when you pull the handle back ( the handle where the lock is)..I use a small pick and pull that out, there is a screw behind it...Also...the door handle itself there are either one or two screws there..trim removal tools come in handy here..you have to pry up the handle itself and it will reveal the screws.....Ive removed dozens of them on 09's.....If you snap a pic Ill be able to describe it better for you...

Are all the clutch parts new? did you at least get the flywheel resurfaced if not new? Is the clutch adjusted properly? Did you get any liquids or grease or anything on the clutch disc?

Thanks for the tip..I've seen guys do it, but if I recall all the articles Ive read and the countless Subie t-belt idlers Ive done Ive never used it...

Ive seen people used red thread locker on these bolts, however I could be wrong here but I don't believe you HAVE to use it...

Ive done both of the things you mentioned before..Its quite easy to do especially when your installing a tranny in these cars without the use of a lift.....Those clips are a PITA. Does the car move at all when you put it in gear and let off the clutch? I will say this..you would have never gotten the bellhousing to engine bolts/nuts in/on if you didnt get the input shaft in the pilot bearing.....Im assuming youve used a new pilot bearing/clutch kit here?

+1^..Whoever decides to charge it I would have them add some dye to the system also...just to be prepared should the system ever develop a leak...

good deal!.. always like it when its something simple...

take a look here... http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Valve07MayEW.pdf this might be of some assistance...I believe 96 was the last year they used HLA's ( hydraulic lash adjusters) which automatically adjust which explains why the valves don't require check/adjustment on your 96...

stalling..What code was it exactly? P????

after adding a little lube..stick a screwdriver down in there and jimmy it around a little bit..sometimes things get a little crudded up...That almost always does the trick Ive done it to dozens of Subies..

Man that sucks...Did seem a tad to good to be true...:-\

I dont believe a ground goes there ( I could be wrong)...That kind of looks like the place the EGR should be, im thinking maybe someone used a little plate and bolt to block it off... OF course im sure your aware there is a ground that the upper starter bolt goes threw...Im sure someone else will chime in...

As you mentioned I personally would start off with replacing the neutral switch..common problem, It prob. wouldnt hurt at that mileage to give the IAC a good cleaning also...

Good little read..Thanks... Love that engine at the bottom..H6 Turbo...NICE!