RallyKeith

I did a ton more digging and came up with, and ordered, the ATEQ VT36 for $273 on Amazon. No sensors at that price but it's a full RF system and the ATEQ documentation says it will do sensor cloning on the Schrader EZ sensors. It's not listed on the Schrader website as one of the units that works which is why I didn't find it originally. It doesn't come with any sensors for that price but this way I can actually diagnose which sensor(s) are bad and replace only what is needed. BTW, I have my own mounting and balancing equipment and "maintain" over a dozen cars across all my family, so it pays in the end for me to have my own equipment for things like this. Thanks

The Dorman kit is 4 sensors and the programming tool for under $300. Every tool I've seen that can program the schrader ez sensors is over $300 and then you still have to buy sensors at $35-40 each. Unless there is a $200 tool I'm missing that's why I'm looking at the Dorman system.

Does anyone have experience with TPMS sensor cloning for sensor replacement or a second set of wheels? If so what brand/system did you use? I have an 08 Imreza 2.5i wagon with a sensor starting to fail. I've been looking at the Dorman 974-515 MULTi-FIT (315) Universal Programmable Tire Pressure Monitoring System Kit. Looks like it should work for my car but I'm uncertain and don't want to spend a ton of money if it's not going to work. Thanks, Keith

I'm not sure how to read this. If I read this the way it's written it consumes greater than 1/3 or a quart in 1200 miles? To that I say EXPLETIVE DELETED please! I bought my '06 with 16k on the clock. It used a quart every 1500 miles from the day I got it until 160k when I rebuilt it a few months ago. Now it uses a fraction of a quart in that mileage and I don't even have 5k on the rebuild yet. The issue is people not breaking them in correctly. I honestly have no idea what form of break in is done from the time a car is built until it hits showroom floors. You actually need cylinder pressure to force the rings into the cylinder walls to get them to seat and to get that you need to have more than 1/2 open throttle positions. If you baby them, especially when they are first run, the crosshatching in the cylinder walls glazes over and the rings never seat. FWIW I use Hasting rings in all my builds. So far I haven't had any issues with oil consumption on any of those builds. Keith

For the pipe nipple: http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Impreza25L-SS-4WDOutback-Sport-Wagon/_52093_6022168/AT--TRANSMISSION-CASE-TRANSMISSION-CASE/G12-154-01.html

http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Impreza25L-SS-4WDOutback-Sport-Wagon/_52093_6022093/AT--TRANSMISSION-CASE-FITTING-08MY-08MY/G12-154-02.html

I've got the part. I was very disappointed that it literally looks like it's a 1-1/2" x 1/2" pipe thread nipple, but at the price I can't complain. I'm not going to get to this until most likely a week or two. I'll update once it's done.

Well, if I'm being honest I want to see the magnet and how much material is on it. I probably won't do it unless something doesn't seem right.

Nope. Filter is on the driver's side and the exhaust is on the passenger's side. I already ordered the stud as Subaru calls it. Not worried about returns at a total of $14 investment in filter and stud. I just know the fluid that came out when I replaced the rusted hard lines looked like it would definitely benefit from having a filter, especially since it's got 162k on it. In an effort to make this thing last I may pull the pan and replace the strainer right away. I'm just over worried because of the hard lines having been rusted out and the transmission possibly being low on fluid as the lines were leaking.

The 2008 Impreza 2.5i Automatic Wagon I just bought does not have the external spin on filer that Rock Auto and Napa Online led me to believe it had. Instead there is a block off plate. Based on the parts diagrams it sure looks like I could add the filter by removing the plate, installing a $3 pipe nipple (Subaru part number 15211AA000) and spinning on the filter. Anyone done this or see a reason I couldn't? I already bought the filter from amazon and the $3 nipple is cheaper than returning it and would make me feel better anyway. Thanks, Keith

Agreed. These electronic drive by wire throttle bodies are much more sensitive to being dirty since there is no idle control valve. If the throttle body is too dirty the electronics can't get fine enough adjustment. The $700 was replacing the trans lines and refilling, replacing the air filter, cleaning the throttle body, replacing "corroded" battery terminals, and replacing 2 burned out marker light bulbs.

This is apparently a fairly common thing. I was able to talk to a friend who is a master mechanic at my local subaru dealership and has been there for over 25 years. He said they see this more than you'd think and so far if they replace the lines, fill it up, and it either drives fine or it's obviously shot. He didn't know of any with this repair that immediately drove fine but had come back in the near future with a shot transmission, but only time will tell. The lines were only $65, and of course it takes a special High Performance Dexron III that is hard to come buy but the dealer sells it by the quart for $6.50. Considering it drove onto the trailer last night with out any issues or signs of anything I may just get lucky. Only time will tell.

Long time. I'm not on this board (or any for that matter) much anymore. I used to be a lot back in the early 2000's. Nice to get a reply from one of the "old timers" I've always trusted! Turns out it was never "out of fluid," just that the lines are corroded and leaking along with two other things which actually explain the stalling. One being a dirty throttle body which is a legitimate issue on these drive by wire throttles, and an air filter that is so dirty and blocked up with leaves I'm surprised it ran at all.

One of best friends has a 2008 Impreza 2.5i automatic that started stalling when he came to a stop. He took it to a subaru dealer who told him one of the lines corroded and started leaking until it "ran out of fluid." They told him $700 minimum to fix it. I have almost no experience with automatics so my question is, what kind of damage was done and is the transmission toast at this point? As a point of reference, used transmissions for this car are super plentiful and it looks like I can easily get one with around 100k on it for around $200, so replacing the transmission is most likely the route I would take if I get the car from him. Thanks, Keith

I took a look at everything suggested so far and I've found no evidence to suggest any of those things are an issue, but I didn't spend a ton of time with it. I'm currently "serving" two weeks of hard labor for my company out of the country so I won't be able to look at this further until mid October.