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Update. The bowl vent valve solenoid is shorted. I realized I didn't mention the cause above. It runs, but not well and is really thirsty. I have a bog when the secondary (Hitachi) opens and it feels like I have a vacuum leak. Can I disconnect or plug the hose from the bowl vent valve without serious consequences?

With the bowl vent unhooked, it runs but seems to have a hiccup occasionally, especially at higher speeds. Throttle response is crisper. She had started stalling when I stopped in traffic or at lights, so the idle was cranked up a bit. I was able to turn it down a little, but not to where it should be. I thought it was due to wear around the throttle shafts, but it could be the anti-dieseling solenoid also. How does the anti-dieseling solenoid work? It looks like a spring-loaded plunger and the 12v pulls the plunger into the solenoid and allows fuel to pass? So resistance of the coil should be low? And I should be able to test by removing the solenoid from the carb, grounding it and jumpering 12v to the wire?

Success!!! Pushed the pin out of the connector and taped it. Everything back together and it starts and runs. Going to bed so the test drive will have to wait until later. Thanks to everyone for their help.

OK, thanks. The wires looked good until I started messing with them - the insulation is brittle. The connector also feeds the choke, so maybe I can push a pin to isolate the other two valves. Where is my electrical tape?

Thanks for the awesome help! Either the bowl vent solenoid valve or the anti-diesel switch is bad. Is there any way to test them? Now, I presume it will be okay to drive without the anti-diesel since I can stall the engine when I stop. But what about the bowl vent? Will that create a dangerous situation or affect drivability?

Great! Thank you GD. I am on it right now.

OK. Thank you, that helps clarify the manual a bit. I found some oxidation on the ignition switch terminals and wire brushed everything clean - no change, still pops the fuse. No signs of anything abnormal on the back of the fuse block, or anywhere I can see under the dash. ???????

OK, I thought that was the fuel pump control unit. It is unplugged, and still blows the fuse.

Greetings all, My wagon keeps blowing the Ignition/Fuel fuse #12. While driving on the freeway, it stuttered going uphill then recovered, only to lose power. I gave it gas and it continued to run long enough to get to an exit (mine thankfully) and coasted to a side street. The engine would die if I backed off the throttle and would run barely if I popped the clutch in gear and gave it gas. Once I stopped it would crank but not start. No obvious trauma anywhere. Checked fuses and # 12 was popped. Installed a spare and she started and died within a second. Did the same thing with a second spare. Tried turning the key to 'on' and the dash lights dimmed and the third spare fuse popped w/i a second. My neighbor towed it home for me. I unhooked the coil and fuel pump - blows the fuse. I unhooked the fuel pump control unit - blows fuse. I tried areas mentioned in other posts for common shorts (choke, radio) and saw no signs of arcing or crispiness. My Haynes manual wiring diagrams do not entirely match my car. Where or what else should I check? What else is energized with the key in the 'on' position?