DavieGravy

Darn it! well thanks for the info. I'm glad I posted here otherwise I would have been tempted to just drive it home. I don't think it's something simple because the boot has been torn open and making noises forever.

Sorry about that. It's a manual. I think I'll just get it towed to avoid damaging the center diff. I will be doing the repairs myself and already had the axles.

Ok, thanks. I'm thinking I lost power to both front wheels. Would like to drive it if possible but not sure of the risks.

I made the mistake of driving my car with a clicking / tugging CV joint because of the snow today, and now I completely lost power to the driver's side front wheel. Is it OK to drive home about 15 miles or so or am I risking damaging something like the front differential? It looks like the axle is still holding up by the rest of the torn boot. Thanks

When I decelerate the steering wheel tugs violently and repeatedly to the right. If I accelerate the problem goes away. I have torn CV boots on both sides and also some other torn boot on the driver's side. I'd like to solve the immediate problem first and I'm wondering which side is the culprit for the tugging. The tugging is not a constant pull. It jerks and stops and jerks and stops, etc and gets faster the more I increase my speed. There is also clanking noises when it does this and clicking noises going around turns. The problem gets worse when it's wet out. I imagine water getting into the torn boot(s) exacerbates the problem. Here are some pictures. I am aware that my passenger side sway bar linkage is busted. Thanks. Some boot near the center of the car on some rod near the axle, I'm guessing this is for the steering and is part of the rack and pinion? Driver's side CV boot torn badly. Passenger's side CV boot torn, but not as bad.

I have had no problems since replacing the VSS and resetting the engine codes.

If that's the case, I'm perfectly capable of driving without a speedometer. I disconnected the negative battery cable to reset the check engine code. Once I drive it again I'll post back.

i no longer have the misfire issues or the rev limiting issues. That is completely gone.

The vss did the trick and fixed all the problems. They're over 100 bucks new so I got one at the junk yard. However, the speedometer didn't come on after I replaced it until I got the car up to about 25 mph. I then stopped and got goign again. Then it was about 10, stopped again 5, etc. I hope this doesn't keep happening. Eventually it freed up but I suspect it might happen again if I let the car sit overnight.

Is this it? Thanks.

Woodswagon, sorry about that. I will check the vss and post back. Apparently, it can be accessed by removing the air intake box.

I tried to check the code but when I plug in the green connectors, the check engine light flashes continuously.

The above video was not the cause of my issue. Does anyone know were the cable going to the transmission is located? Also, there are other threads on this issue but nothing I found to be particularly helpful. It was mentioned that something called the iacv might need to be cleaned, but I had trouble locating it on my 2.2l engine. I did reset the ECU and the check engine light temporarily cleared and the rev limit problem went away for a while, but quickly returned after some driving. Speedometer and mileage still haven't worked since I initially noticed the problem.

So if anyone's interesting in keeping the mileage down on thier older gen legacy.....

I think this might be the issue: