DavieGravy

Darn it! well thanks for the info. I'm glad I posted here otherwise I would have been tempted to just drive it home. I don't think it's something simple because the boot has been torn open and making noises forever.

Sorry about that. It's a manual. I think I'll just get it towed to avoid damaging the center diff. I will be doing the repairs myself and already had the axles.

Ok, thanks. I'm thinking I lost power to both front wheels. Would like to drive it if possible but not sure of the risks.

I made the mistake of driving my car with a clicking / tugging CV joint because of the snow today, and now I completely lost power to the driver's side front wheel. Is it OK to drive home about 15 miles or so or am I risking damaging something like the front differential? It looks like the axle is still holding up by the rest of the torn boot. Thanks

When I decelerate the steering wheel tugs violently and repeatedly to the right. If I accelerate the problem goes away. I have torn CV boots on both sides and also some other torn boot on the driver's side. I'd like to solve the immediate problem first and I'm wondering which side is the culprit for the tugging. The tugging is not a constant pull. It jerks and stops and jerks and stops, etc and gets faster the more I increase my speed. There is also clanking noises when it does this and clicking noises going around turns. The problem gets worse when it's wet out. I imagine water getting into the torn boot(s) exacerbates the problem. Here are some pictures. I am aware that my passenger side sway bar linkage is busted. Thanks. Some boot near the center of the car on some rod near the axle, I'm guessing this is for the steering and is part of the rack and pinion? Driver's side CV boot torn badly. Passenger's side CV boot torn, but not as bad.

I have had no problems since replacing the VSS and resetting the engine codes.

If that's the case, I'm perfectly capable of driving without a speedometer. I disconnected the negative battery cable to reset the check engine code. Once I drive it again I'll post back.

i no longer have the misfire issues or the rev limiting issues. That is completely gone.

The vss did the trick and fixed all the problems. They're over 100 bucks new so I got one at the junk yard. However, the speedometer didn't come on after I replaced it until I got the car up to about 25 mph. I then stopped and got goign again. Then it was about 10, stopped again 5, etc. I hope this doesn't keep happening. Eventually it freed up but I suspect it might happen again if I let the car sit overnight.

Is this it? Thanks.

Woodswagon, sorry about that. I will check the vss and post back. Apparently, it can be accessed by removing the air intake box.

I tried to check the code but when I plug in the green connectors, the check engine light flashes continuously.

The above video was not the cause of my issue. Does anyone know were the cable going to the transmission is located? Also, there are other threads on this issue but nothing I found to be particularly helpful. It was mentioned that something called the iacv might need to be cleaned, but I had trouble locating it on my 2.2l engine. I did reset the ECU and the check engine light temporarily cleared and the rev limit problem went away for a while, but quickly returned after some driving. Speedometer and mileage still haven't worked since I initially noticed the problem.

So if anyone's interesting in keeping the mileage down on thier older gen legacy.....

I think this might be the issue:

I was stopped at a stop light and noticed my car had stalled. I started it back up and noticed it was running on 2 cylinders. Not being able to get up enough speed on the highway, I pulled over, turned the car off and back on again and the engine power returned to normal. But I still have a non-functioning speedometer, mileage counter and trip mileage. The check engine light is still on and the RPMs stop at 4.5k. If I try to rev the engine above 4500 it oscillates and doesn't go any more. We have had some very cold weather here in CO and also I was rear ended and pushed into a car in front of me. It pushed my radiator back an inch and a half or so. Not sure if that would have anything to do with it. Just wondering if anyone knows what the problem might be. Thanks

I need a new one on the passenger side as one of the pistons was sticking and it destroyed my brake pad and rotor. I was going to get a used one at the junk yard but removing the brake lines has always confused me. Can anyone give me some quick tips? Thanks

Thanks, I'll give both of these suggestions a shot.

Also, I know it's not an issue with the fuel pump drawing too much power because I replaced it the last go around.

The connector going underneath the gas tank lid to supply power to the fuel pump keeps burning up. I had no issues with my car on the road, but went to start it up in my garage one morning. It would crank but not run. I took the lid off the gas tank behind the back seat and found what's shown in the below pictures. This happened before and I found another connector in perfect shape and put it in. 8 months later it burned up again. Just wondering if anyone can give me insight into why this keeps happening. Thanks.

I've had an intermittent problem of my steering wheel wobbling only during acceleration. When I coast the problem goes away. Additionally, the car will pull to the left during acceleration and there's a loud clicking noise during right turns. This problem comes and goes intermittently. Does anyone know what the issue might be? It's a 97 legacy outback (manual transmission)

The issue was a bad TCU. Replaced and all is well.

Thanks. I hope it won't cause excessive tire wear between now and when I get another one.

Does anyone know what this is, if I can pull it off for the time being and is it easy to replace? Thanks.

After letting the car cool off for 5 minutes, the FWD light comes back on.