DavieGravy

The problem only occurs when the car has warmed up. After warming it up on the highway, the FWD fuse no longer works.

I'm wondering if anyone can give me some more suggestions on this. I performed a full transmission service with fluid change and the problem still exists. I do not experience torque bind with the FWD fuse in . Could this be a symptom of clutch pack failure? Or perhaps a cooked TCU? It has been suggested on another forum that there might be a short in the wiring to the solenoid. Is this a posibility? Thanks

Sweet, I now have a running SVX. Thank you fairtax4me, the dude brus brother, and all the others who helped.

I ended up just getting another connector from the junk yard. It's the same on the legacies, but much shorter. Due to the long wires on the fuel pump this wasn't an issue. I took extreme care putting it all back together and double checked everything, but I'm nervous as hell about trying to start it. Is there any possibility of an explosion?

It is. I'm definitely going to replace it. Although there is continuity between the connector and the other end of the wire. So it had to have been working.

No offense taken and I apologize, but I will say that I didn't notice it was burned through when I removed the old pump. The holes that burned through the connector likely happened while the new pump was in. What I did noticed while removing the original pump was a little bit of blackness in the hole. I should have clarified this in my last post. I do feel experienced enough now to replace this connector and get it all hooked back up. I do realize a lot of nice folks here spend some time helping me out and I greatly appreciate it.

Could this be the source of the problem? I recall, it was like this before I removed the old pump. It looks like the connector is burned. This connector goes underneath the fuel tank lid thingy that all the hoses connect to. This connector supplies the wires that go to the pump. It's burned through on both sides and looks like it might have been arching.

I don't think I did, but what would happen if I mixed up the pos and neg connectors on the pump?

I tried just unplugging the modulator connector and also unplugging the connector and grounding the yellow to the chassis. The car would not start. It "puffed" a few times while the starter was going as if it could almost start, but never did. I assume this is just from residual gas in the engine. Thanks for all the help.

Well, unfortunately my battery is now dead, so I'll have to try it and post back after I charge it back up. Where exactly should I run the jumper wire to on the pump? Thanks

I am also getting 12 volts at the blue wire at the pump (with ground to chassis) during prime test until the relay clicks. I'm stumped. Could it be a problem with the resistor? The pump is new and should be coming on.

There is continuity between the black wire at the pump (with the connector disconnected) and the chassis of the car with the key on, meaning the ohm meter pegs all the way forward. With the key on, the connector disconnected at the pump and the connector plugged in at the modulator, there is continuity between the yellow at the mod and black at the pump. There is also continuity between the yellow at the mod and the chassis. (the ohm meter pegs all the way forward on the ohm scale) It does. I don't see any resistance between the black at the pump and the black at the modulator. It is. The red/yellow does not show any voltage during prime test or any other time. There's continuity with some resistance. on the 1k ohm scale the needle goes about half way.

Thanks for this. I'll check the blues tomorrow (at both ends during prime test grounding to the chasis) and post back. I'm starting to lean toward a faulty modulator since it's in the trunk and the car was slammed from behind. The modulator is in the top of the trunk underneath the trim. I've removed the trim and it's in full exposure.

Both the blue and the black are at 12v until the relay clicks, then the black goes to 0 and the blue pegs negative at the relay. So the blue is not staying live it seems. This is using green/black as ground.

Understanding now the green/black is ground, at the pump, the yellow and green/white test hot with the key on. With the key off, all dead. Including the blue.

Sorry for my misunderstanding The blk/wht wire tests at 12v against the green/black (ground). When the relay clicks it goes to 0

I have. I disconnected the In line to the filter and no fuel squirts out when I turn the starter or leave the key in the on position. The relay clicks immediately when the key is turned on, then once more about 3 seconds later. Not sure if this means anything.

I did see that on the diagram. Is this a 30 amp fuse as opposed to a wire fuse link? I gathered it was. If not, then I have no idea where it's located. I could not get my probes in the connector at the fuel pump with it plugged in so I tested the connector at the relay, with it plugged into the relay. When I first turn on the key, I get 1 volt on the blue. Then I hear a click (the relay?) in the dash and the volt meter pegs negative as far as the needle will go. I'm using the 50 volt DC scale, but just to be sure I tried all the scales and they all pegged negative as soon as that relay kicked on. At the relay with the connecter disconnected from the fuel pump, the blue is dead.

Does anyone know where the ground wire is to the fuel pump?

The fuel pump definitely isn't turning on because you can't hear it run at all. I unplugged the connector from the relay and tested the wires there. Yellow - hot with key on, dead with key off All the rest - dead with the key off The red and one of the other wires peg the volt meter to the negative (opposite direction) with the key on. I'm using the 50 volt DC scale on the volt meter. Is this indicative of a short somewhere between the engine compartment and the relay under the steering wheel?

I've left the battery disconnected for days but the issue continues. I assume the ECU was reset during that time.

There's a factory alarm, but this can be disabled with the security button on the dash which I have done. As far as I know, there's no fuel shutoff mechanism. It just causes the horn to beep until you turn the key on. Good thinking though... I wonder if the ECU itself is bad. Or an ECU ground was disturbed.

It's a 92 SVX The car was also flashing the power light and giving a code 21 for duty solenoid C. This was replaced at the mechanic, but the light still flashes. Wonder if the 2 problems are related. The car was hit in the rear passenger side by a tractor trailor. I'm wondering if this didn't cause some kind of issue. Also, some exhaust work was done. Could a ground have been left loose?

Could this be the problem?

I replaced my fuel pump but it still won't start. The new fuel pump won't run at all because I can't hear it in a quiet garage. All fuses are good, relay it clicks when the key is turned on, but no go. Does anyone have any ideas? It has to be a either a short or a power issue. The only wires that are hot at the pump are the yellow and one of the greens when the key is turned on (there's a blue, black two greens, and a yellow for a total of 5 wires). I'm not sure if this is normal or not. All wires are dead at the pump with the key off. I checked the wires in the rear of the trunk including the modulator, resistor and ground wires. All looks good as far as I can tell. Could a bad relay still click but be bad? I think I'm aiming towards this. All these problems occurred after I had disconnected the battery and reconnected it trying to clear ECU codes. Thanks in advance.