DavieGravy

I'm not really interested in rebuilding the caliper if it isn't leaking anything. I realize it may fail 7 years down the road, in which case I'll pick up a used one at the junk yard for 5 bucks. I'm really interested in how I get this air out of the system. I tried loosening the bleed bolt, pushing fluid through it and topping the reservoir up before it got below the low mark, but it's not helping. That damn peddle won't stay firm. I don't understand what's going on here. I've ran cars completely out of brake fluid before, filled them back up and they were fine. Why is this happening?

sdfff

How do I do that?

I raplaced my brake pads and turned my rotors. During the brake job, I made the mistake of pressing on the brake pedal while the caliper was off the rotor and one of the pistons came out. I put it back in but a piece of the surrounding rubber fell off. After putting it all back together, there's no leaking brake fluid and I topped the fluid level off, but the brake pedal won't stay firm. If I push on it a few times it firms up, but then if I let off it it goes back to the floor. What should I do here? Did I ruin the caliper where the piston came out?

I ordered a rack and pinion for my SVX online from http://www.steeringrack.com, but their site said NOTHING about shipping times. I called them the next day. After about 15 phone calls, dealing with instant hang-ups, voice mail messages and busy signals, I was finally able to get through to an incoherent, babbling buffoon of a woman. I asked them how long it would be before I received my rack and pinion. They told me they didn't even have it in stock. I asked why it was listed on their website and why they charged me for a part they didn't even have. The stupid woman simply said "I don't know". That very same phone call I asked for a refund of the $485 they charged me for the imaginary part. This was a week ago. The refund never came through. After getting the run-around I was forced to open a dispute with my bank. Don't order from these jokers.

I wonder if the old one can be glued back on? Any recommendations on glue that would hold? Perhaps some all purpose adhesive from home depot?

It definately is a 97 Legacy Outback and the mirror I got looks exactly the same as the one that was on there. Strange.... What a pain in the butt.

Thanks for the responses. The problem is I don't see the 3 bolts because there's a metal plate in the way. The pictures below show what I'm dealing with. Does anyone know how to access the bolts so I can take them off? Thanks again

Does anyone know how to do this? The previous owner broke the old mirror off by hitting something. I've removed the tweeter and the plastic cover that goes on the inside of the car, behind where the mirror mounts to. But I still can't see the screw heads. At the junk yard, they were plainly visible. On this car, there appears to be a metal plate in the way. Do I need to remove the door panel? Thanks in advance.

Sweet! Thanks. Perhaps I got a good deal for 800 bucks then. :-)

Thanks for the replies. Is this a 2.2 or a 2.5?

K, so how do you turn it off?

I purchased this vehicle through a friend without seeing it. He told me it's a 2.2 but it might be a 2.5. How long can expect the head gaskets to last if they're not already bad? Also, the battery went dead so I took the one out of my 91 legacy. Upon doing so, I noticed the battery light was still on and the side lights kept flashing with the car turned off, despite all the light controls being off. Why would this be? I'm guessing the alternator is bad but could the electrical be screwed up as well? Thanks in advance

I'm working on a car with manual windows and need to remove the 2 front door panels. How do I remove the window handles? Thanks in advance.

I stuck a small, rolled up piece of duct tape in the hole to stop the oozing gas. I was then able to conver it with the JB Weld. A second coat the next day finished the job. The pipe rusted out because of the accumulation of dirt on top of the rubber cover that goes underneath the metal pipe. I suspect leaks will occur again in the future but at least this fixed the problem temporarily.

Unlike the previously used R12, R134a dosen't destroy the ozone layer. That was a major contributing factor to the gubment mandated switch. For informational purposes: The leak in my SVX is coming from the front of the compressor. Upon closer inspection it was obvious due to the accumulation of oil on the belt cover and the front of the compressor itself. I also had a buddy with an SVX that exerienced the same thing. That's definately somethingto watch out for if AC problems are experienced on these vehicles. Fortunately, ebay has proven to be a good source of used and rebuilt compressors for these cars. Now for the love of God, no more lectures PLEASE!

Finally got around to looking at this. The pipe is in fact rusted. There is a clear, visible small hole where the gas is leaking out of. I was going to try and patch it with JB Weld, but the problem is gas keeps coming through the hole and the JB Weld won't bond. I tried to depressuize the fuel system by disconnecting the fuel pump connector in the access panel in the back. The car eventually stalled but keeps starting and runs for a long time. Will the gas eventually stop coming out of the hole or will I need to completely drain the fuel tank? Is there a trick to quicly draining the tank while salvaging the gas? Thanks in advance.

Total BS. If that were the case they wouldn't sell freon and guages at retail stores. I can fix the damn leak myself by replacing the gaskets in several spots. I was told so by a qualified mechanic. So take your overhead and $150/hr labor costs and whine somewhere else.

The R12 has long since leaked out on its own. I put in R134 (harmless to the environment), but it leaked out as well. I'm not responsible for Subaru's shortcomings. I never purposefully vented R12 into the atmosphere. So there's no need for you tree huggers to get your panties in a bunch.

Scoobywagon, thanks for the advice. Looks like I'll need to get some equipment if I attempt to do this. Hey Shawn, I believe you've worked on my SVX before at Rick's. How much would you charge to do this for me? David

I apologize for my last response on this. All the freon has leaked out and from what I can tell there's zero pressure in the system. I want to start by replacing the two gaskets on the compressor itself as well as the one that goes to the condensor. I was told by a mechanic that these are the most common leak zones. My question is, I've put the gauge on the low side and from what I can tell there's no pressure in he sytem. Is it safe to start undoing the bolts and so forth or are there other precautions I need to take? I know the pressure is really high in a charged AC system and I don't want this thing to blow up in my face. Thanks

Thanks everyone for the succinct advice. Replacing the fuel injector fixed the misfiring problem. I had a hell of a time trying to get the injector out of the fuel rail so I ended up replacing both passenger injectors and the rail itself (20 bucks from the junk yard). Strangely enough, the old fuel injectors had only one hole to squirt the fuel through whereas the new ones had three holes. Perhaps this was something subaru changed due to clogging problems.

Thanks for the helpful advice. I'll try it and post back.

Here's what I've done but the problem persists New NGK spark plugs properly gapped New spark plug wires New coil pack New ignitor Checked for vacuum leaks Cleaned MAF sensor Cleared and pulled ECU codes (only one I'm getting is for the colant temp sensor) I don't see how the colant temp sensor can cause a misfire, so I figured I'd try and replace the fuel injector. The cylindar is #3 (back passenger) My question is, how do I replace the fuel injector? I removed the two screws, the electrical connector and the cap, but it won't come out. Do I need a puller of some sort? Can someone PLEASE give me quick, detailed instructions? Thanks in advance.

Yeah ok. I guess any alternative to spending thousands of dollars at some rip-off mechanic is bad.