DavieGravy

The starter relay (located under the dash by steering column) clicks when the ignition is turned on, so I assume it must be the fuel pump. I guess without knowing what the voltage should be at the connector and what wires should be live or dead, it'll be an $85 gamble. I'll post back my results after I replace my fuel pump.

I tested the voltage at the connector. With the key on: 6 volts at the yellow and 12 volts at the green next to the black. The rest were dead With the key off: All dead. Is it possible the impact knocked something lose like the fuel pump modulator or ground wire? Since it's in the rear of the trunk where the car got hit this might be plausible. Or is it more likely the relay went bad? Thanks

It ran for 3 or 4 days or so after getting it back. Thanks for the offer, but I think I'll take a stab at this myself.

There was very little damage from the accident. How can I check to see if it's pumping? Thanks

My car was fine 3 or 4 days ago and today I can't get it to start. I turns over just fine but refuses to run. I can get it to run for a few seconds by spraying carb cleaner into the intake, but it quickly dies. Does anyone know what the problem might be? I've checked all the hoses and they appear fine. The car will not run even with the air box removed. I also checked the fuel pump connector in the back and cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner, but nothing. It's almost as if the fuel pump went out completely. It was at the mechanics getting a "speed sensor" and duty C replacement. Is it possible they messed something up? Also, while it was at the mechanics, it was hit from behind by a tractor trailer. Could the impact have caused damage to the fuel pump or anything else? Thanks

I took the car to a mechanic to have it replaced. $701 and a new exhaust leak later the car is doing the exact same thing as before. The only difference is now it sounds like crap. :-( :-( :-( Ugghhh. I hate wasting my money. Anyway, does anyone know what the problem might be if it's not the solenoid itself? Could it have something to do with a corroded battery cable and things not getting enough power? Thanks

Thank you davebugs. You in particular were very helpful. There's definitely a learning curve doing this kind of stuff.

Thank you all for all the help. I replaced the timing belt and the car is now running on all 4 cylinders. This forum kicks butt!

Thanks for the responses. I hadn't lined the groove up on the crank pulley before bolting it down. So it was nudged up a bit. I fixed the crank pulley and problem solved.

The alternator won't come up high enough to make the belt tight. Even if I run it all the way up. I can't figure this out. It's like the belt grew in size. Can anyone see anything that's wrong from the picture?

I didn't line the crank up. Do I need to?

I removed the old belt before the cam sprockets were centered. Is it OK to move them individually or do I need to put the belt back on?

I was able to pull it off. There's an awful lot of belt shreddage here. Could something have seized? You can see in the below picture of the timing belt cover. All of that stuff is pieces of the old belt.

Thanks, the bolt loosened with that method. But after taking the bolt out the pulley won't come off.

Does anyone know how to remove the crankshaft pulley? Putting the car in 5th and applying the brakes doesn't hold it in place. It's been said to jam a screw driver into the transmission to stop it from rotating but the engine's in the way. I can't put a screw driver through one the holes because there's nothing but the plastic cover to provide support. Does anyone know where I might be able to get the proper tool to remove this? Auto parts stores don't have it. Thanks

It's a dual port where it connects to the head. I almost have the old timing belt off. What else is needed other than replacing the timing belt? Thanks

Looks like a shredded timing belt to me. Why would this happen? Would it be worth it realign the sprockets, replace the belt and hope for the best? Could this have ruined the engine? Thanks

As far as I can tell there is no binding in slow tight turns. I did circles in the middle of the street and experienced no jerkiness or noises. Is binding something that is noticeable? There are no changes between doing tight turns with the FWD fuse in or out. And the FWD light does come on when the fuse is put in. The blinking power light only comes on exactly every other time I start the car. Strange right? I've only noticed it for a couple of weeks but it's hard to tell because I normally don't drive the car very often. I have never had a problem with the solenoid c before. I'm surprised it's giving me a code because the transmission has been rebuilt by a master Subaru technician (one of the best in Colorado). This would have been 10 years ago. The transmission has 60k on it. I pulled both the existing and previous codes and it's giving code 24 in both. That's the only code the car is giving. One strange thing I've noticed is the car will rock back and forth slightly when the engine is shut off from park after driving. I never noticed this before. I appreciate the help as I don't want to spend $500 to replace a part that isn't defective. :-) I'm reluctant to replace it myself as I can't find a how-to guide and don't want to be on the ground removing a bunch of stuff without a lift. Is this a difficult project?

Good thinking! That had completely slipped my mind. I'll check it out as that's a likely candidate. Thanks.

Car was fine until I had an abrupt loss of power and rough engine on the highway. The power loss is so extreme I can barely make it up steep hills. I was able to determine that the car will run on either driver's side cylinder by itself, but won't run on either passenger side cylinder by itself. (it's 2.2 4 cylinder engine). I replaced both passenger side spark plugs (gapped correctly) and replaced both distributer cables. Still didn't fix it. When I pulled the old spark plugs out they were saturated in oil - so bad that my socket piece was dripping oil all over the ground. I was able to determine sparks are coming from all 4 connections on the coil pack, so I assume that's fine. I'm guessing the half the engine seemingly quit due to the oil leak. The car loses a lot of oil and has to be filled up every two weeks. Is this correct and is this engine hosed? Thanks

My power light is flashing 16 times and I pulled a solenoid C code (24). I'm going to take it into the mechanic to have it replaced, but I'm wondering if it's OK to drive with the power being locked 50/50 between the front and rear wheels? The car drives perfectly fine with no noticeable binding or noises. If it weren't for the flashing power light I wouldn't have known. If I do drive it, should I put the FWD fuse in? Thanks

I just drove it around the block for 10 minutes and it was fine. I even went over bumps and dips and everything remained solid. Looks like I wasted one of my free 4 tows for the year.

In stop and go traffic today I got a minor wobbling on the steering wheel when going slow. I figured ice was stuck to one of the wheels. Traffic then sped up and the wobbling went away. Then, I got a violent wobbling on the steering, a weird clunking under the car and it seemed like the steering was loose. I pulled over to the shoulder and just a few seconds before I stopped the car recovered and was fine. The ordeal prompted me to stop driving it and have it towed back to my house. After it was dropped off in my driveway, I was able to pull it into the street without any problems. I'm wondering if ice buildup under the car could cause this or if something is likely on the verge of breaking. I did notice ice clung to various parts when I briefly looked under the car. It snowed here recently and the car was driven through deep snow and hard ice chunks at the side of the street from plows. I figured either snow and ice got somewhere it shouldn't have or I knocked something loose. Does anyone know what the problem might be? When I looked under the car I didn't see anything hanging down or broken.

I turns out that I was loosening the bolt that holds the brake line in, not the bleeder bolt. I had a friend help me bleed the brakes and it fixed the issue. Thanks to everyone for the help.

Popping the thing that compresses against the brake pad out of a caliper can ruin a master cylindar?