DavieGravy

Yep, that was it. Replaced that igniter coil and all is well :-)

Alright, so the problem progressed into constant misfiring and vibration in 4th gear on the highway when throttle pressue was applied. Based on prior experience that made it clear to me the problem is due to the ignition system and most likely a coil wire or coil pack. That being the case, I disconnected various electrical connectors for each coil going to the engine. Disconnecting the white connector on the passenger side resulted in the engine running slightly smoother. Disconnecting the white connector on the driver's side resulted in no noticable difference. Disconnecting the other colored connectors on the passenger side rsulted in worse engine shaking/misfiring. Given that, am I correct in assuming the problem is likely with the driver's side coil that connects via the white connector? And am I also correct in assumming disconnecting the white connector on the passenger side (hence both cylindars on both sides of the engine in the same positionnot firing) smoothed things out? If someone could please help me out with this that would be great. I apologize if these seem like stupid questions but I don't have much mechanical experience. Right now, I'm aiming to replace the questionable driver's side coil and wire. Thanks in advance.

Thank you for the suggestions. I did notice the coil connectors on the driver's side were caked in grease. I cleaned them off but no luck. Where the coils connect to the engine is hard to see and I couldn't see any sparks in the dark. I'll try resealing them and replacing the plugs. I'll post back with the solution once i get around to it.

When the hesitation or roughness (missing) occurs, I hear a ticking/popping noise on the AM radio. The frequency increases with RPMs. When the car runs smoothe (like when I'm coasting) the popping on the radio abruptly goes away. Does this shed any light on what it might be? I've also cleared the codes. I'll drive it for a day tomorrow to see if I can pull any new codes.

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Manarius, appreciate the suggestion. However in my experience, a faulty MAF simply causes stalling and doesn't produce the sputtering/shaking that I'm experiencing. Could it be a fuel injector? Is it possible to unplug the electrical connectors (one at a time) and start the engine?

Well I removed part of the cover and the belt looks to be in very good condition. Do I need to expose more to see if there are missing teath?

It acts like it's missing when cold. Engine shaking, sputtering from the exhaust and an extreme loss of power to where I can barely get the car moving. As the car warms up, the loss of power goes away but the shaking continues. Eventually, the shaking goes away with normal operating temperature, yet a small amount of hesitation exists. Spark plugs perhaps?

Poked around a bit this evening and sprayed some carb cleaner on various vaccum lines. However, I'm reluctant to spray too much for fear of starting a fire. Is there a risk for this? Anyway, I was not able to get any RPM increases while spraying. The only thing I did notice was a few 1 second, sudden rev increases when I began to close the hood. This is strange since the only moving part on the hood that goes into the engine bay is the hose for the washer fluid. I also noticed a slight hiss coming from the center of the engine. I removed the plate that's held in with 4 allan screws, but this wasn't enough to deduce anything. After a quick test drive this evening, I noticed the car stopped shaking and began to run fine after normal operating temperature was achieved. Any other ideas on where I can go from here? And lastly, does anyone know of a good place in the Denver metro area to get rebuilt high pressure hoses? My high pressure PS hose is leaking on the lower connector that's closest to the bottom of the car. Thanks again for any further advice.

Mine was only doing it when cold, but the problem is now occurring when warm. The car also shakes when cold. I'm thinking vaccum leak which would explain the car running rich, or a sticky EGR valve?

After conducting some research, it seems as though a faulty temp sensor causes hard/difficult starts. My car starts perfectly every time. That being the cause, I'm inclined to believe the problem is something eles. I have no check engine light. Woudln't a faulty 02 sesnor cause the check engine light to come on? I verfied the TPS setting with a digital multimeter and it was set correctly. Appreciate the suggestion to search subaru-svx.net for sputtering, but didn't find much. Any other ideas would be appreciated. Perhaps a vaccum leak? I checked all the hoses. Some were held on with electrical tape. I replaced the tape with clamps. However, the problem continues. This started happening when the weather got cold.

I determined my TPS on my 92 went bad due to fluctuation of the needle on my multimeter while adjusting it. I also had shifting problems. That being the case, I replaced the TPS and now have smoothe movement on the multimeter during adjustment. I also solved my shifting problems. However, I'm experiencing sputter at idle when cold. The sputtering gets better when the car wams up. Additionally, I'm experiencing hesitation on low RPMs while accelerating. Due to these symptoms, am I correct in assuming the TPS is set incorrectly or is the problem related to something else. I'm using an analog multimeter which is difficult to read. There are numerous scales for the voltage. (2.5 10, 50, and so on). I'm using the 2.5v range and assume the needle should be 1/5 of the way up the voltage scale as this would indicate the factory specified 0.5 volts. Perhaps I'm reading the meter incorrectly? Should I just scrap the analog meter and go with digital? Thanks in advance for any help.