HiPlainsShifter

Thanks Bill, I would agree with you, but my knowledge is so limited, I wouldn't know where to begin to look. I'm pretty sure that I'm not getting any error codes from the ECU though, at least nothing I recognize. Someone has suggested the coil might be faulty, another-the o2 sensor. I'll explore these possibilities ... but personally, I'm at a loss. It can be difficult cutting your teeth on wrench turning when you have what seems like a problem rig (at least that's what it feels like now). At least one mechanical success story would go a long way toward establishing a foundation for confidence.

Prologue: The TRANZ has been down for about a month now and I'd like to get it going again. It was running fine when I asked a buddy to take a look at the timing for me since I had timed it and didn't know about the connectors in the trunk. After adjusting to spec, it took a nose-dive and could barely make it down the street. Even after putting it back (the disty) to it's original position, it still stalls under load. It runs fine from a cold start, but when the engine comes up to temp... performance goes right into the crapper *NOTE* To prevent rehasing previous discussions, Please Read the [Specifics FIRST, then if you have any ideas I would love to hear them. Any help is greatly appreciated and BTW, I hope everybody had a safe and merry christmas. Happy New Year too! Thanx Rico

Just registered a little while ago and applied to start a group: The Mid-South Chapter :cool:

OK, Ok, OK ... So I'm a little late! Fuh-Git-abowdit .... Count me in too:headbang:

Thanks Zuki, I'm not familiar with that group, but I'll post there also. A chance for someone to come who wouldn't have otherwise, and an opportunity for me to recoup a buck or two. Subie on Dude:headbang:

If you'd like to come to the XT Dragon Meet in N. Carolina and would like to stay over Saturday night. I have a Bedroom available in my Cabin. The cabin is fully furnished and has TV and AC. Only $55.00 for some real southern comfort. If interested, please respond to: osazze@gmail.com Information about the Dragon Meet can be found here: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8512 Hope to see you there, Rico

If you'd like to come to the XT Dragon Meet in N. Carolina and would like to stay over Saturday night. I have a Bedroom available in my Cabin. The cabin is fully furnished and has TV and AC. Only $55.00 for some real southern comfort. If interested, please respond to: osazze@gmail.com Information about the Dragon Meet can be found here: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8512 Hope to see you there, Rico

Here's to all you bruthuhs and sustahs who had my back when a bruthuh needed hep This Bud's for All Y'all ( @)-{---- ) The rig is hummin --- The disty was 2 teeth off, and I paid a local shop 20.00 for a 2-part lesson: 1. R&R + adjustment of a disty, 2. Timing Light 101. I didn't have the confidence to do this myself(nor did I have a timing light) but with my tutoring session this morning, I feel armed and ready for what's next! They were very helpful and patient and I think the money was well spent. But Kudos and thanks to all of you who very gently "encouraged" me in this effort, THANKS! Now we can officially close the "Hep a Bruthuh ignition thread" To my new family & The Academie of Subie Luvah's everywhere .... Peace! um-Out:headbang:

Nope, I didn't remove the distributor itself, just the cap and rotor. Thanx for the tip. I will run the check as soon as there is adequate light, and warmth outside, provided it isn't raining:) I would like to be able to do this myself and not have to take it to some shop. Now that will be a confidence builder.

When the wires and disty are in the proper position, the engine turning over sounds really smooth, it just never kicks in and starts. When I first put the new cap and rotor on the rotor immediately was stripped of the contact, and the cap was cracked. It was either the wrong part was installed backwards or something. I've got the car where it will start. I've had to shift all the wires three positions ccw in addition to changing the upper disty assembly. The original position was with the front disty screw in the center of the slot, now the assembly is turned toward the back of the car so that the screw is at the very forward end(front of car) of the slot. I'm just learning so don't laugh too hard... is this position advancing the timing or retarding the timing, and .... how safe is it to drive like this?

Well I don't know what else to do :-\ :-\ :-\ I've checked and rechecked the wires and firing order, today I rechecked the coil to insure that there is spark to the cap. I also checked the wires on the plug end while bumping the ignition and all have spark. Still, The Car won't start :twisted: I don't know what else to do :confused: I'm going to pull the plugs if it's not raining tomorrow (it just started raining again) Just to see if they show evidence of sparking and I'll also check the gap(even though I believe the gap would have to be way wide to prevent ignition. I have a rental vehicle which I must return tomorrow and I am totally stumped by this issue. :-\ I can say that this afternoon when I tried to start the car, I held the ignition for 15 to 20 seconds, and then I smelled the strong odor of fuel. I took some pics of the wire placement on the cap and engine. I would not mind lookin like an idiot if someone could come up with a workable solution for me so that I can have transpo again. I've run out of ideas :evil: :banghead:

Skip You're absotively-posilutely right! No timing light, and wouldn't know what to do with it if I had one. I've never had this kind of issue when just changing plugs, wires and cap. My suspicion is still with the parts... but I will follow up the tips from Connie and John. 1. Verified prescence of coil contact 2. Rotor screw in place and secure (shaft stable[no wobble]in rotation) 3. NO Timing Light:rolleyes: 4. It's raining out:-p 5. And if it ever stops raining (started Friday afternoon) I'll check the spark plug end for juice:)

"Guess Who's Coming for Dinner":banana: Okey Dokey ... I had to do that with the coil wire but the others weren't as easy...now whar's dat dubya-D AT? Oops, it's raining outside (and dark too)

John, a couple of these plugs are hard to get to[2&4}( I have large hands) and the new wires I purchased have extra long contact sleeves/boots on the spark plug end. I know this probably sounds silly, but I'm not posilutely sure that I actually got all of the contacts on the plugs because of the long boots. Whadya think?

Ah,excuse me Mr. Junkie , I don't mean to be obtuse but what could possibly have happened to interfere with the fuel process? Are you suggesting a fuel pump issue? If so, what might have prompted it? Thanx Brian

The Napa parts are installed, every thing rotates just fine:banana: , engine turns over, and over and over and over:rolleyes: but doesn't start. I've checked and rechecked the wires for firing order, checked the coil: It's sparkin like crazy, I didn't gap the spark plugs, cuz my feeler gauges are with the tools in my van(30 miles away at me mums place). Before I put in new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, the car would start with just a bump of the key. Ideas anyone?:-\

Ok everybody, this is the deal. I've been to Napa for more parts and although the cap looks close to the original there are some minor differences that may or may not affect operation. The rotors all appear to be identical, but when installed, the contact on top of the rotor was ripped off and the cap itself was cracked(see pics). To tell you the truth, I'm getting a little gun-shy about this, I've already ruined two[2] rotors and one[1] cap. I've purchased another set but it looks like the others. Several people have indicated that the cap only goes on one way. For some reason, that does not apply to what I have in my rig. It can go on in the reverse direction, even the old one i took off can be installed to its opposite. Now, one last question: Since this cap can be installed either way and the rotation is counter clockwise; does it make any difference as long as the wires are in the correct firing order (remember, I'm not a mechanic and I've never played one on TV) I've got to get this rig back on the road, my other vehicle is at me mums and she is 76 and lives about thirty miles away. Not an ideal situation. So if anyone has a difinitive answer, I'm all ears ...

:eek: No-N0-No-No-o-o-o-o-o-oh! No touchie distributor-- it taboo. I likey drive my car. I don't have that much confidence yet. I do oil,brakes, plugs wires, fill the coolant and washer reservoirs, brake fluid and I even know where the gas filler pipe is and how to fill it. But actually messing with something that could really mess up somethin bad ... no-no-no. I specifically do not want to have to deal with timing issues right now... I'm stressed as it is because something simple has turned nightmarish. And to ad insult to injury, when I went out to the car this a.m. the battery was discharged, and that has me a little worried ... Have I opened Pandora's box?

Hi Guys, and thanks! I will be going to the parts store this evening and I will take my old cap and rotor with me. I will also be armed with the part numbers that subjunkie provided. In addition, I will make the trek over to Napa, they're a little further out, but I've never had a problem with parts from there in the past. I'll let you know how it goes ...

That sounds great! Please send me a pic and I will get the money right out to you. Oh, I'll need your address ... you can pm me with the pics and your info. Thanks, Rico

Thanks Dude, just returned from the parts store where they say there is no four wheel drive option, and they definitely do not have Hitachi branded or the other type distributor either. There was no play in the distributor shaft, and the rotor itself was attached firmly and secure. I'm reallyl puzzled, this and my oil change should have taken only 45 minutes max. Now my rig is down:banghead:

When I first put everything on, I was very meticulous about only doing one wire at a time and one "end" at a time. after all was put together, I turned the ignition, engine turned over but didn't start. after some checking I discoverd that the contact from the rotor was lying on the floor of the distributor. So then, I put the old rotor on with the new cap and the same thing happened. I checked and the rotor contact was broken off and this time the coil contact at the top of the cap was broken also. The screw that holds the rotor in place was secure and not loose. the rotor itself did not break, just ripped the contact off of the top of it. So now all rotors and all caps are fubar. I'm on my way to the parts store with a friend to get another set. Ok so I have to tell the parts guy that I have a 4wd? more later ...

I might have put the cap on backwards, I thought I placed it the same as the old one. There is a "blank" socket just before the #1 wire plug on the cap. Anyway, the contact on the rotor is broken off, and the one at the top of the cap is broken also. And I was being so careful ... or at least I thought so... I've done this before with other cars and it's never been more than a 20-30 minute job:-\

Actually I traced the wires(replaced them) one at a time as I removed each plug. I thought I did the same for the distributor cap too. I've got a chiltons, I'll recheck it Thanks

Hey, Good Mornin! I'm out changing plugs wires etc, I didn't do anything to the distributer but remove the wires and replace the cap and rotor. Now the car won't start:-\ What could I have possibly done wrong? Can I get a little help? It was running ok before, but since I just recently bought it, I decided to put in new ignition stuff just for peace of mind. Now this ... Whazup widt dat?