bk2valve

Dang....It started a couple of times, started stumbling and quit each time....clapped my hands too soon....It still shows the crank angle sensor fault so I guess the cleaning did not help that much. Does anyone know of a diagram of the ECU so I can get a handle on pin numbers? Brian in NM (still puzzled)

Cougar...I have a horn...and my ecu has no pin numbers at all.....very frustrating...but I did find that there was power at all but one contacts on the ignition relay....I also found the connectors for drawing codes out of the ecu and they are codes 11 and 13....looks like crank angle sensor, no? Meaning my disty is pooped out? OOOOOPs....never mind...I did a vigorous cleaning of the inside of my disty with electrical solvent and my disty connector as well, tried it again and it fired right up.....thank you everyone.....you all are the best and I will make a contribution to the group.....I will stick around as well to help if I can..... 94Loyale....I won't be needing the ignition amplifier either it seems...thank you for that offer.... Brian in NM

I did not see any but will look again...Do you know how far I can tear into my distributor before I screw it up? I would like to take out the two screws holding the little black box unit in and look under it to clean or what ever....would also like to take out the screw in the very center out so I can lift out the disc with holes in it...maybe I can clean underneath and see if I can restore it to use...if not it is a trip up to Albuquerque for a used distributor I am afraid. Brian in NM

Cougar....will do horn check this AM.....This may have an obvious answer but I don't see any numbers on my ECU so do I just count to find the pin numbers and if so which side is up? Thanks, Brian in NM

That is just excellent 94 Loyale...thank you! No rust here but I have lived where it just ate away you car from under you (Haines, Skagway and Kodiak Island, Alaska) ..ooofff, I ran series Land Rovers then and Phospho (rust stabilizer) was my best friend! Brian in NM

Skip....in my little world the only dumb question is the one unasked...you would not believe the simple, overlooked things that have put me up against the wall. However, the rotor does spin and I just double-checked to make sure. I have pretty much gone over everything I can find a lead for and other than not really knowing a good test for the ignition amplifier, I think it is that item. Somewhere I did read of a test for it and while they called it something else...that is what I think they were referring to....and I did the test ( a diode test) on the two spade connectors and they tested infinity resistance both ways and according to the info, they should have tested very little resistance one way. Here's hoping...thanks for the ideas, Brian in NM

94Loyale...You know, after following the thread for your old problem...I am still thinking it is the ignition amplifier. I would like to offer to buy one of yours (the closest yard with any possibilities is 280 miles round trip and they want me to bring my old one by so they know what I am talking about) and pay for shipping as well. If that is cool with you, and you have a Paypal address I can forward you the $ as soon as I know. Thanks, Brian in NM

Bill90Loyale, OK I will check that rotor screw out tomorrow. I think it is fine but since I used a new and different screw it may be hanging up on the plastic of the rotor...could be...I'll check... Thanks, Brian in NM

Thanks very much for your response....I do have a good ground...all fusible liks are good and my best guess is that it is the ignition amplifier. I will get after it tomorrow....follow the link you gave me more thoroughly and then if I can't get it from there I will ask for one of your amplifiers....Maybe you would test a good amplifier for me and using a VOM on the Ohm scale, see what you get between the two spade connectors...I was told that it should have little resistance one way and complete resistance the other...mine shows total resistance or an open circuit both ways,,,,thanks again for your help, Until tomorrow, Brian in NM

I have an '88 DL wagon and have a 'no spark' situation. It was running well and I changed the plugs, wires, rotor and cap, and all of a sudden with no other indication, I went to start it up and no spark from the coil. The coil checks out fine. I searched and found a diode test to perform on the unit that is on the coil mounting bracket. Performing that test, it showed no conductivity either way on the two spade connectors on the unit. I also found that it was called several things on this board, none of which has helped in searching out a new part. It was called an "igniter", an "ignition control module", a "diode" and a "condenser". Does anyone know the correct nomenclature? Thanks for any help you can offer....I am not really sure this is the problem but think it may be....when I put a test light from the negative terminal of the coil to ground, it glowed steady while engine was cranked...shouldn't it flash if all was well? I do not know how to run tests on the distributor... Thanks in advance, Brian in NM:confused: