subaguy

It's really hard to tell since cars are different. I did have 134 in this Subaru until I had to take the compressor out. I decided to try Freeze 12 when going back. Right now it shows more potential than 134. Only have one can in now. Will know more when I get it to capacity.

Hi, The compressor is a DKY I think. Anyway, it's Made in Japan. While searching the Junkyard, I found the same one that was named York, and another one with a name I don't remember. This is on an '88 Sub GL and has a double V belt pulley> That may ring a bell to you. Couldn't even find a new one here and these people carry quite a few brands. Two cans sounds about right to me. I don't think it would take anymore for sure. Did yours cool good for you? So far(to me) it's hard to beat R12. Thanks for the reply:)

Sounds like a good idea. In reading on the can, it said it would take 10% less Freeze 12 than R12 Thanks for the reply

Hello out there and everywhere------- Haven't posted in awhile. Had clutch problems with the A.C. Couldn't find a new coil so I went to a junkyard and bought a whole compressor just for the coil and it works fine now. Nobody wants to sell new parts for compressors. As we all know R12 freon is hard to come by. I used R134 at one time and wasn't too happy with it. This time I changed oil and put in Freeze 12. It seems to be working fairly well except I need to add some more. Since I don't have gauges I am a little cautious. Right now it takes it down about 32 degrees cooler(in the ducts) than the outside temp. I used one 12 oz. can so far. I don't think you can go by the sightglass like you could on R12. Does anyone have any input about this brand? Thanks

I posted before about the clutch (ac) on my 88 GL. Afterward, I finally removed the clutch. I suspected there might be a short causing it to blow fuses. All there is inside is a coil with one wire going to the hot and another grounded. I don't know exactly how to test the coil. I did notice it has a couple if breaks in the insulation. I would really rather use this compressor than try another one as it may not be as good as this one is for pumping etc. All tests I've done, it looks like it may be the coil shorting out. Any input? Thanks

Actually I decided to try running from battery rather than the charger and it kicks in where it wouldn't from the charger. After checking the fuse with an ohm meter, found out it was a blown fuse. The fuse looked ok but wasn't. Put in a new fuse and it blew in a short time. The only short I can think of is it may be in the clutch. Don't want to take the clutch off unless I have to. Only way that I know of to check that is to take the clutch to an electrical shop. Was using a 20 fuse that blew. Put in a 30 and it didn't. Kind of risky. Any input? Thanks

That's what I thought. I took a 4 amp battery charger and put the pos. to the wire and the neg. to ground which didn't do anything. I may try removing the pulley etc. to explore but probably won't help. Will probably have to go to a junkyard to get a replacement. Thanks for the reply.

Hi, I've just encountered a new problem. The clutch on my air cond. won't kick in. I don't believe the cause is low freon. Tried putting some in and it won't kick in. My question is, can it be checked by disconneting the wire from the compressor and putting the juice to it to see if it will engage? I have checked all fuses that I know of. Also while engine is running and air is on, I disconnected and reconnected the wires on the drier and heard the relay click slightly. That's about all I know. Any input?

That sounds about what I had figured. Didn' t know about a plate. It took me awhile in spare time when I reworked the heads as it was due to marking the wires and hoses. The rest wasn't bad. Thanks for the reply.

Does anyone know if the cyl. head can be removed without taking the engine out? I had to rework the heads once and took out the engine to do so. I have an oil leak now and not sure if it maybe the head gasket or the valve cover gasket or? Am going to do further checking to make sure of what it could be. This is an '88 GL with an 1800 ohv engine.

Thanks for the info. Will try some of these ideas.

My oil pressure went way down. Bought a new sending unit and it still is the same. Am not having any engine problems. I think there is something else (ohms, etc). This is a 1988 subaru ohv engine. Am going to do further checking (wiring)

Am going to do a little more checking under the hood(connections, Etc.) and put an oil pressure guage on the pump just for my curiousity. Another odd thing that strikes me is that the oil on the dipstick dosen't seem to change color since I changed it this last time. It used to turn darker as I drove it. Thanks everyone, Subaguy

Thanks for the replys. I will try those ideas. There was another Subaru in the family at one time that the oil pressure ran 10 lb.+- and it never had a problem other than leaks. It's life ended when it got rolled. This one must be getting lubrication or something would show up I would think. Once had a '47 Ford that when warm it would run about the same. Subaguy

I have an 88 Subaru H. B. with an 1800 overhead valve engine. Oil pressure used to stay at 50 to 70 lb. Now reads about 15 at 2000 rpm when engine is cold then sinks down to approximately 10 lb. when warm. Changed the "O" rings in the pump but still stays the same. The oil pump dosen't seem to be damaged. The valve lifters are still quite, and it runs fine. My question is, could it be a loose connection from the sending unit to the meter somewhere? Was looking at the wires and this wire ties in (it seems) with the temp sending unit. I also installed a new oil pressure sending unit. Car has about 177,000 miles on it. Any input? Thanks, Subaguy