ronwomack

i had just settled in for a long day of chasing electrical problems again today. i have had several electric problems which i was able to cure with a new ecu. my cruise control was still not working and i geared up for a long day with the multi meter. after reading a few posts on this site i decided to start with the clutch switch. on visual inspection i was able to see that the rubber seat in the clutch pedal was missing which allowed the switch to go right through the hole where it used to be, i filled the hole and presto, i have cruise! now i don't have anything to do with the rest of my day ha ha. i can't begin to say what a great site this is, it has helped me immensely. thanks ron womack

hey everyone. just to let you know. i replaced the ecu and my codes have disappeared. i took her for a short drive and checked for stored codes and found none. i can't tell you how happy i was to find a recent addition to the new salvage yard with most of the items that i have needed except for a driver side turn signal but oh well. thank you for all of your help. i will recheck for codes in a week or so and update to let you know how it worked out. also, rear wheel bearing swap went well thanks to a lot of info that i found on this site. i can't thank you all enough for all of your help and input ron womack

hey there legacy777. i did try resetting by connecting both connectors. i haven't messed with it for a couple of days. it is still running with cel codes for the idle switch, speed sensor, and cannister purge solenoid. the cel comes on after driving for about 2 or 3 miles. i haven't looked for a ecu yet as the wheel bearings need changing and are a more pressing issue. hope to get those done this weekend. thanks for the input i appreciate all of the help you guys have offered up. thanks ron womack

i haven't ruled out the possibility of a bad ground yet. an ecu is a pretty expensive part so i would like to rule out any other possible causes. if i were to buy a salvage ecu how exact do i have to be? my local salvage yard has several susbarus around the same vintage however all of them are auto trans. i still have the speedo from the auto trans that i originally swapped. any ideas what years are compatible? my chilton's would leave me to believe that 90 to 94 have the same wiring connections for the 2.2 l engine. thanks again for all of the help. sorry for any complaining. it actually turned out to be an interesting challenge that i'm sure will continue. ron womack

thank you cougar. the problem was the fusible link #2. i did a visual on it and it appeared to be good. however when i removed the relay i was then able to see that it was blown. a lot of time wasted because i didn't look close enough in the beginning. as for the other problems i think that i am down to code 33 and 35 still. don't think that i will worry too much about them for now. thank you guys for all of your help and patience. couldn't have done it without you. ron womack

i found it. that made for a long day. i think that i will stop tinkering. i believe that most of my error codes are erroneous since i know that the components are functioning. perhaps the problem lies with my inexperience and not the car. i get about 21 mpg in the dead of winter on mostly short trips and she runs as smooth as can be. time to stop messin with it. thanks so much for all of your help ron: womack

hey cougar. i tried jumping across that fusible link to no avail. is there another?

used a jumper wire to supply power to to the yellow wire entering the ign relay and she fired right up. that narrows it down to the fusible link. any ideas where i can locate it? thanks ron womack

ok cougar here is the latest. further testing has showed the ign relay to be good. when energized i have continuity between the proper terminals. i still do not have power to pins a2 and a13 on the ecu. i checked power to the two yellow wires that supply power power to the ign relay (not the light green wire that energizes the relay) and have found them to be dead. they are supplied by a fusible link i believe the number is sbf2 or s8f2 30 amp (my eyes arent as good as they used to be) any idea where this is located? thanks ron womack

i checked power to the ign relay, (the grn wire from pin d5on ecu) good power. no power out to yel/red wires to cpc or o2. am i reading this right, i believe that the ign relay is not energizing. this is actually becoming interesting. thanks ron womack

hey cougar. by my schematic it looks like the wires that you gave me to check are supplying power to the ecu. i think that i should be able to test it by checking for power to the cpc and the 02 sensor.

i believe that i found the ign relay. not too happy about the location but have got it removed however i doubt that i will ever get it back in. will try to locate one and see if she goes. is there a quick checkout that i could to test it before i buy a new one? thanks ron womack

thanks cougar, . i have a chilton's but i'll be darned if i can find it putting the internet in my shop was sure a great investment. it is so much easier than running to the house every time you need info. thanks again ron womack

you are too kind cougar. thank you for your patience. i have power at pin 15 but none at 2 and 13. which from what i can gather from my schematics would tell me that i am getting no voltage from my ign relay which is connected to my cpc solenoid. where is the ign relay locatd at? thanks ron womack

sorry for my language. i am venting a little frustration. i actually like the car but spending this much time on something that is probably staring me in the face is discouraging. no more scrap heap. thanks again ron womack

i checked them all cougar, i can't find any blown. il also ohmed the fusible link. i can't find any obvious reasons. is there an engine relay hidden somewhere. thanks ron womack

it just keeps getting better! just for fun i thought that i would replace the cpc solenoid again (i grabbed a few from the salvage yard) the new one ohms well and audibly energized. while checking for voltage from the cpc i accidently shorted out my lead on the manifold, the engine instantly died and will not start. now i can't even get it out of my shop to work on something that isn't frustrating. i'm very near hauling it off for scrap. thanks for all of the help that you guys have offered ron womack

yeah i guess that i am going a little nuts. anyway i checked cpc voltage at the ecu and got 12 volts. since there is voltage there and i am still getting the code i am going to assume that my ecu is failing

yes i do have an audible click from the cpc solenoid. after a short drive to the store i now have added codes 42 and 51 to go along with 33, 35, and 49. this is getting ridiculous. this old girl is not far from going to the scrap heap.

ok guys this is getting frustrating. last night i reinstalled the original instrument cluster so now my vss and ecu should be the corrrect match. while i had the car in the shop i replaced the air filter, to do this i disconnected the air flow sensor then came up with an additional code (#49 for the air flow sensor.) i disconnected the battery and let it sit overnight only to find that all three codes (33, 35, 49) are all still there. i do not think that all of these parts are bad expecially the air flow sensor since the code was never there before. is it possible that i am doing something wrong in the code reset process? i am getting tired of fighting this. thanks again for your help ron womack

thanks for all of lthe fantastic info. the cannister solenoid vavle that i used was from a salvage. i did however check it with an ohm meter and energize it to ensure operation before i installed it. as for speedo. i saved the old instrument cluster and will replace the speedo unit to see if this corrects the problem. thanks again for all of the info. i will post the results when i make the change. thanks ron womack

the speedometer is working, i have replaced the cannister purge solenoid valve. this is why i am looking towards the ecu or its connections as a possible cause. the speedo that i used to replace the one that was damaged in it's vandalism is out of a auto trans. my vehicle is a 5 speed. is it possible that they have a different signal? thanks ron womack

i own a 91 legacy wagon. the vehicle was vandalized is 2001 and has sat ever since. i have recently replaced all of the glass instruments and broken hardware. i am getting a code 33 and 35. i have reset the ecm and replaced the instrument gauge cluster (code 33, vehicle speed sensor) and the canister purge solenoid valve (code 35.) after resetting the computer the codes return. i suspect bad wiring or connections. can anyone tell me where the ecm is located. i would like to check my connection there and possible pinout voltage. any other help would be appreciated> thanks ron womack

how do i go about testing the vss output? is there a documented procedure that i can reference? thanks ronwomack

also. will a cel 33 prevent the cruise control from working? they would seem to be related. thanks ron womack