['98 Forester won't turn over]

My friend has a '98 that she says made a knocking sound, died, and now won't turn over. I put a fully charged battery in it. When I turn the key I can hear a relay click under the dash some where, but NOT the starter solinoid. Is there a start relay somewhere I need to check out? Does anyone have a schematic that would be helpful?

 

The car also returned one PO335 which I reset, but still no joy.

 

Any suggestions welcomed. Thanks in advance!

 

[Speedo Stopped working CEL on]

Thanks guys, the car throws 2 codes. I don't remember now but i know one is for the speed sensor and the other I think is for the airflow sensor. I can't get to work on the car until Monday, I'll let you know what I find then....

[Speedo Stopped working CEL on]

Thanks for the info. I have a standard transmission. The car runs like crap, stalls, and the speedo is out.

[speedo/speed sensor part number 95 legacy...]

ok well, if yoour speedo is jumping, it is time to change the sensor, the price may vary from $67 online to $99 at a dealer. the part number is 85082AC002 thats for 95 to 98 legacy AWD.

 

Do you know if this is the same as on a '98 Forester by chance?

[Speedo Stopped working CEL on]

'98 Forester, threw 2 codes realated to the engine speed and I think the air sensor. My question is where is the sensor for the speedo? Somewhere around the tranny I would guess. Could be just the connector right?

 

Thanks in andvance:)

[98 Forester shift problems? (long)]

Thanks. I was wondering about motor mounts or something like that.

 

Not quite, about the time a slave cylinder goes out the master can fail. On my 99 Forester I have replaced them both in sprite of the TSB that says to replace slave. hoses, and washers. Change the clutch master cyl.

[98 Forester shift problems? (long)]

OK, This has only happened a couple of times and not for a long while, but I am getting ready to sell the car and don't want the new owner to have any nasty surprises. (I like the person)

 

At times it had been very hard to shift from neutral to first, then also up through the gears. Almost like the clucth wasn't engaging, but it was. It's a very young clutch and TOB. And has a new slave cylinder.

 

Now here is the kicker. The last time it did this to me, when I finally forced the thing into gear and let out the clutch, it made VERY expensive banging and grinding noises. I immeadiatly put the cluch in and coasted to a stop. Trying to find my cell phone and credit card and to call AAA. I knew something must have broken.

 

I decided to try it once to see what would happen and it shifted and drove just fine. In fact, it's been 6 or more months with out any shifting problems at all!

 

Any ideas?

[Forester clunk]

Yea, it's a 1998. The noise appeared about 20k after I got the car. The car now has 106k. It is only on the left. I think the strut bushing theory is the best one. The dealer wanted to do both, because they like to run up the bill I think. I'd like to try and fix this myself, but struts scar me.

-Cheers!

[Forester clunk]

OK, I get a clunking from the left front side when turning at SLOW speeds or stationary. It's not CV's, my mechaninc said it was not struts, but the dealer said it was and wanted to replace both sides with mounts for like 600 bucks.

Any thoughts?

 

Cheers!

[This is likely to get some mixed responses]

My '66 AH Sprite had dual SU's, but now it has a Weber! Runs great.

 

My buddy had a Honda CBX, inline 6 cylinder with , yes, 6 carbs....ouch!

 

My BMW F650 single has two carbs!!!!

 

Cheers!

[Help with Forester axle replacement]

THAWA,

Thanks for the help. It went well, just as you described. BTW, I don't think there is a Haynes manual available for the Forester yet.

 

Ed,

I had broken two 19mm sockets trying to loosen the strut nuts:confused:, with a breaker bar and a piece of pipe, but thankfully it was not necessary to loosen them.

[Help with Forester axle replacement]

Can anyone help me with a step by step proceedure for replacing the front axle's in my '98 Forester. I have the axle nut off, but don't have a clue what to remove next in order to slide the axle out. Thanks.

[Clock issues?]

Here's the bezel removal.

[Clock issues?]

To remove the clock simply pry the cover off using a penknife or small screwdriver, from the top. There is one connector to remove. Then pry the clock apart, be carful not to loose the 3 set buttons when they fall out. You can then check the 3 resistors on the clock board. Here's a picture.

[Clock issues?]

After looking at several circuits for automotive digital clocks, I believe the resistor I replaced was not to drop 12v to 5v but to drive a transistor which enables the display. Indeed the clock does have a voltage regulator. Remember we are not dealing with alot of power draw here....it's just a digital clock. I suggest you take your clock apart and inspect it for the missing resistor. Mine was (not)loctated beside the upper left hand side of the display. One more thing, the display lens will look burnt on the lower left. That happens during manufacture when they fuse the thing together.

-Cheers

[Clock issues?]

Yes, EDRACH helped me with mine. I installed a 30 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in the place where the original one either burned or fell off. The original resistors are surface mount, but I just soldered on a regular resistor. I could take mine apart and e-mail you a picture if you like.

-Cheers

[Synthetic?]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll see what I can do.

[Synthetic?]

I am purchasing a '98 Forester S 5spd with 82k on the odometer. What is the opinion of synthetic vs dino oil in the 2.5l engine?

 

How about timing belt interval?

 

I will be doing mostly highway driving.