cajun100

I know of 3 such cases in addition to my own 1998 OB. In each case it was valve cover (gaskets) leaking, then onto the exhaust. Just enough to smoke a little and smell burnt. Unfortunately doing both sides is about $500-$600. Do you need other work you can justify (leaking cam seals, front crank seal, etc.???) that would save some $$$$ later.

Sorry, no giveaway here! With the new model price increases and the fever that hits people when the snow flies (and of course our lovely local gas prices) -- I think we can do just fine, thanks. For a spotless 98 MT with only 72000 on it. And a new clutch (already). And new cam seals and front and rear main seals, timing belt, etc. (already). Ranger83, with that stable of machinery, you can simply switch parts from one to another as you have to - LOL.

Emily at CCR posted on here too (message disappeared -- wonder why? maybe I deleted it?) and noted that their shop has shipped replacement blocks and engines to almost all 50 states. So -- my theory may be shot down from that angle too. And I was planning to get confirmation and then smugly feel that OUR 1998 OBW wouldn't be in any danger here in SF Bay Area climate. Agggggggghhhhh. I don't want this expensive problem. I think we'll sell our clean wagon this fall after the first snow in the ski region. I'm convinced that the design flaws are real and that SOA will not - short of a court ruling -- take up the slack on a fix. Avid mountain people needing AWD might be willing to take the chance.

Ah --- you must be Emily the engine lady, I have read about you. Well, I accept your evidence as the answer, since I am sure I can get nothing of value from Subaru - LOL. Wish I could add to your new engine figures the number of headgaskets used up from Subaru OEM stock since 1998. And no, I am not a lawyer working towards a class action suit! Just a disappointed first time Soob owner thinking about changing. Thanks Emily, for the note.

I had an interesting thought today -- I wonder if CLIMATE has any bearing on the typical HG failure (probably concentrating on the 2.5L Phase I engine)? It might be illuminating to see how many people with one or more HG cases, who drive reasonably, live in climate-extreme locations. Where winter temps are very low, for example, or summer very high. I'm talking about daily driving, not the occasional trip to desert or snow. Are HG cases mostly in these locations? Would California and/or Gulf Coast cars show fewer cases than upstate NY or Arizona? Anyone have any info from another source on this (the "guestbook" signups available on another site are not numerous enough to make a difference).

I had an interesting thought today -- I wonder if CLIMATE has any bearing on the typical HG failure (probably concentrating on the 2.5L Phase I engine)? It might be illuminating to see how many people with one or more HG cases, who drive reasonably, live in climate-extreme locations. Where winter temps are very low, for example, or summer very high. I'm talking about daily driving, not the occasional trip to desert or snow. Are HG cases mostly in these locations? Would California and/or Gulf Coast cars show fewer cases? Anyone have any info form another source on this (the "guestbook" signups available on another site are not numerous enough to make a difference).

How about a "family" ad: one that shows in a snowy lot, for example, older Subarus and newer models side by side, the early morphing into the good-looking and performing vehicle it is today? How about road MILEAGE figures under the cars -- for example, 300,000km on this 1986, etc. etc. Yas, I know this imples great reliability --- and, well, maybe it's provable, maybe not ... My take on the ads is that Subaru still doesn't really know where their most satisfying market lies. So they shoot for everything, blurring the message. I SUSPECT that with the price increases, mpg concerns, word getting around (yes, it is!) on the less-than-excellent reliability of the 2.5 engines, and competition ... that Subaru will have tougher sledding this next couple years. They better get it right, and I really doubt that the relatively small population following Lance Armstrong is their best bet for growing sales. To me -- and probably others -- the ads mean nothing. The info from this forum and related others means everything. I am very close to deciding to sell our 1998 OBW due to needed and potential expensive repairs and I doubt we will get another. Even my 1984 VW Convertible has been less expensive to maintain. Too bad, Subaru -- 'cause I live in northern CA where the vehicles are popular and I get queried every week by someone wanting a recommendation or not, knowing I know something about the marque. Actions speak louder than words, even those in advertising.

I would have the mech for sure: (1) Put new main rear oil seal in (2) Replace shift fork boot (3) Replace "oil separator plate" if PLASTIC or obviously leaking. This is BEHIND flywheel, so it needs to be removed, which it might be anyway, for resurfacing. This damned thing ($24 part) ruined my second (new) clutch disk by oiling the surface. I would also probably replace the flywheel itself. Although yours might be OK. A resurfacing would be about $60-$70 anyhow -- and the latest revision may not be on your car. Go to or call a Subaru dealer. Get the part # on the NEW recommended flywheel and clutch disk and plate -- make sure the guy fixing the car uses THOSE PARTS. Some of this info is HERE on this site if you have time to search for it. Good luck!

Yes, the Exedy has been mentioned and we are looking into the differences now. Thank you.

Many thanks, "Brat". Good imput and it is very helpful as I am about to have the whole clutch unit replaced.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm. NO ONE has any thoughts or experience related to lightweight flywheels on the 2.5L Phase I engine? Please ...

I am about to have the clutch replaced (71000 mi) on our 1998 Outback 5-speed. Looking at various costs of flywheel replacement in event ours is damaged beyond use. I find that there are "deals" on Fidanza and Exedy flywheels. The weights appear to be about 10 and about 14 lb. respectively. I have also found some references to "driveability problems" on Legacy models due to use of light (aftermarket) flywheels. Can anyone here give me some solid evidence either way (stick with heavy OEM flywheel, or move to aluminum aftermarket)? The Fidanzas appear to be more aggressively priced. I understand the "driveability problems" MIGHT be associated with knock sensing coming into play on deceleration due to lighter flywheel mass? This is not the "judder" clutch problem of the 1999+ models. But the info I have found is very sketchy. TIA any good advice here ... don't want to use the wrong part when that engine/trans is so costly to take apart.