kilgore
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Posts posted by kilgore
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Try your lug nut...
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To clarify, some of the gaskets in the felpro kit you may want to get OEM as they are garb, namely the exhaust gaskets and the cam tower reinf. o-ring. I see you've been made aware of this already. have fun!
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If you initially wanted the FRM than I apologize, but this wasn't made clear.
I had the exact same problems you had with your HGs. I did mine last winter (w/o pulling the engine) with a Hayne's manual (which was super helpful) and the USRM from this site. Although a factory service manual is nice, it isn't necessary and there are some procedures that are made more complicated than they really are.
It's not a very complicated process, and should take you a weekend if you have all the parts. Get the felpro gasket kit, they don't require retorquing - you do not want to have to pull the engine apart twice - and have most everything you need. Get a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench to get at the valve cover bolts if yer leaving the eng. in the car.
Read up and then read up some more and then give 'er. Be super careful cleaning the aluminum block mating surface. There are numerous threads on this.
I found this helpful as well.
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Just go buy a manual - they are worth their weight in gold. There are a number of different sections of a manual needed in order to do the HGs and once you have your engine open there are a number of things to look for to make sure your engine is slap-happy.
Judging by your previous posts you are new to your car, a manual will save you from posting here every time you need help and will keep the gurus from getting annoyed with you... A $15 manual and the 'Search' command are your best friends.
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I have heard of spraying a mist of ether to locate vacuum leaks. The best way to precisely locate would be to test with a vacuum gauge I suspect, as small leaks won't necessarily be noted using ether.
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I had a similar bogging issue in my ea82, turned out to be a leak in the throttle body - the gasket was torn. Replaced that and she's golden, more bottom end now and less bogging when cold. Just a thought.
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I had the same set up. The foglights were mounted on the underside of the bumper until they were smashed off. My relay is mounted on the front side of the drivers' side strut mount beside the coolant reservoir.
The relay circuit draws from the parking lights (corner lights on my car) and are powered directly from the battery through an in-line fuse. There is a single wire to the lights which is spliced at the bumper. I upgraded the relay so that each light has it's own power.
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Try posting here for wheels. They sometimes pop up, or others may have them kicking around in a shed or otherwise. This is how I scored my 15s. Just a thought.
http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?showforum=15
This guy's got 6 rims in Kansas... Not sure how far that is from you.
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My 92 Loyale injector looks like the cheaper one. (For what it's worth...)
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I think there is a difference with the 2wd and 4wd front struts. Aren't the front 2wd's longer (from the spring seat down) by 1.5" or so?
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+1 on the EA82 fenders, mine are getting pretty gnarly!
If anybody in Washington is willing to sell a set I would be interested. I could pick them up as well. Shipping those things is quite spendy...
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got it. no worries... partsman gave me the wrong ones (2wd). He was adamant his book was right but it obv isnt... looks like another strut change on the horizon. yay
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If somebody has easy access to a 4x4 Loyale front strut, can you please measure the distance from the top of the steering knuckle (where the strut sits) to the lowest point of the lower spring seat along the strut body? Can you also let me know the brand of strut you have as well?
Thanks!
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I put a jack under the arm to support it more securely so I could pry against the knuckle. I pried between the control arm and the knuckle with the wheels cranked one way or the other.
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Sounds quite similar to the performance of my EA82 when the headgasket was blown... no low end compression.
Just throwin' it out there.
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Once you have it moving you're just about there. I took the load off by putting a jack under the control arm and jumped on a really long pry bar instead of hammering. Hammer a fat flat-head screwdriver in the pinch joint (making sure not to impede the removal of the joint).
It'll come.
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Recently installed some sachs struts on the loyale - parts guy couldn't guarantee the '50% off sale' KYBs would fit, so they gave me the sachs' for the same price. The struts appear to have given a bit of a lift to the car! Even random folks are asking if I lifted it. I didn't measure the clearance before installation, but side by side they appeared equal for the most part.
I now have 12" to the centre of the control arm bolt and 11" to the centre of of the hub (14 pugs with 195/65's). So basically there's a 1" difference between the centre of the axle castle nut and the control arm to crossmember bolt.
Curious to see what other owners measure this to be on their stock 4x4 suspension, might be an easy way to get some boost for those looking for a slight lift.
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Sorry for the multiple posts...
The dealer calls it the 'center piece axle'.
Part number: 623024020
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Oh, and it's not a flat washer between the castle nut and the cone washer, look closely and you'll see it's a spring washer. There might be writing on it that says 'OUT' indicating how it should be installed.
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Cone washer will do.. You'll probably have better luck at a dealership. My local had one in, they said they always stock at least one!
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I froze new bearings and drifted them in with a brass punch, worked very nicely, thanks!
Still getting clunking on both accel/deceleration and in neutral.
a new axle didn't help. so far i have replaced the balljoints, bearings, seals, strut, cone washer and axle - i've torqued and retorqued the castle nut to 145-150 ft-lb to no effect. The spring washer's correctly oriented.
Could the hub splines have been damaged - the wheel bearings were quite bad?
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Has there been any resolution on this problem?
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Recently did the front, passenger side wheel bearings and seals on my Loyale. After, I was getting popping sounds from that corner when gearing down. Took the hub apart and found that the inner seal was mangled. I looked at Nugs' post:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77491
There appears to be a difference in the orientation of the new and old outer seals. (Or are they different seals?)
1. Which side of the outer seal is supposed to face the bearings? The flat side or the lip side?
2. Somebody else pressed the bearings in for me, if they were pressed by the centre race could this damage the bearings enough to get this popping sound?
Thank you.
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Popped off the inspection caps, loosened then retightened the tensioner bolts one at a time and it appears to have worked for now. Now to debug that EGR code...
Expedition Portal - Lifted Subaru Thread
in Off Road
Posted
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34941
Here's a link sent to me by a friend, a Toyota guy, but a nice enough guy nonetheless... Show's alot of cars, mostly members here no doubt, but also some nice comments from the general 4by community.
cheers