danz75

I bled my brakes last week and replaced the fluid but got thinking that maybe I should have put some anti seize or something on the screws so that the next time I get around to bleeding them, it won't be stuck. Would anti-seize be bad for the brake fluid? Any other things that might work better? I'm huge on applying anti-seize to all the bolts and nuts so that they don't rust shut. Have had too many bad experieces with rusted bolts, rusted rotors etc.

What I meant was trying to get access to the bolt because it is at a wierd position. I couldn't get any extensions or ratchets to fit. Apart from using the universal joint(which I try not to when breaking bolts free), I can't think of anything else.

I finally found the motivation to service my brakes on my 03 OBW today. That meant bleeding the fluid and replacing it with fresh fluid, taking the calliper pins out and re-lubing them, removing the callipers/rotors and all the asociated brake hardware to clean them and I usually use anti-seize on all the nuts and bolts that I remove so as to prevent them from rusting shut. Everything went well until I was trying to remove the rear calliper brackets. The callipers were easy to remove but I could only remove the top bolt off the calliper bracket as the bottom bolt was blocked. I tried various extensions that I had, also using a long socket but I just couldn't get to the bolt. I feel that it should be very simple and I'm missing something here. Anyone have any suggestions? I would like to turn the rear rotors as I am getting a some vibration from them. The other thing is that I did not realise that the OBW front callipers were dual piston ones. This is the first vehicle that I own that has them. The pads seem to be wearing very evenly at this point. Very pleased with subie brakes.

I tried to get Castrol LMA brake fluid at Autozone and Advance Auto Parts but they don't carry this brand. Does anyone know where I can get it? Thanks!

Thanks for the website. I'll check it out and compare it to rust check.

Thanks for all the advice guys... I'll definite take a look at the Castrol LMA. I figured a flush every 2 years should be the average. Thought about doing it every year too. As for the brake pads, I've not heard of Mintex. Can you get that at autozone? I installed the ceramic pads that you can get at autozone on a friend's car and he loved it cause there was hardly any brake dust and it seemed to work as well. What are the pros and cons of regular, semi metallic and ceramic pads? What about Axxis or hawk pads? I figured those are pretty spendy. And..if anyone has any pointers about stuff to look out or to do for a pre-winter service... that'll help out too. Thanks!

Hi, I thought I should do a brake fluid flush since I have not done anything with the 03 OBW since I got it. I am also going to take off the brakes and clean things out and prepare for the winter. I doubt the pads are worn at this time but just in case they are, does anyone have any recommendations as to the brand and type I should use? I've heard that ceramic pads has less dust and they don't seem too expensive. I don't do street racing or much off roading so something since it's more of a family car... I would like something that does not have much fade and the less dust the better. Also, what do you all recommend as to the type of brake fluid I should replace it with? I've thought OEM but if there's something better at a reasonable cost, I would probably consider it. Any recommendations and advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks! Danz

Can you buy these products off the shelf in the US? I looked at the website but they didn't seem to have it for sale. How much is a can of rust check?

Thanks for the tip. I've thought of that and might try that route since it's in a place where it's easily accessible. I was trying to find an easier way and not have to remove the inside door panels but it would be a definite logical way to save $50.

Would you recommend any do it yourself products? If using the dent wizard, would it be more cost effective to consolidate the dents and have them removed all at once?

I was moving this weekend and somewhere in the process, put a small little ding on one of the right passenger door panel on my 03 OBW. It's not obvious but it's definitely there. Has anyone every used any commerically available dent remover products(ie ding king etc) to remove dings? I don't want to pay a body shop to remove the small ding but it just bugs me that the ding is there. Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you. danz75

Does anyone know where the location for the outside temperature sensor is located for an 03 OBW? Someone said it should be either in the left fender or in the bumper.

I have one too. Came with the car as a package. Seems to work well if the rear window is not too dirty. I don't use my rear wipers much either.

Hi, I'm looking at a 96 Legacy Wagon A/T. I haven't taken a good look at it yet or negotiated the price but I wanted to find out have information so I will know what to look out for when I inspect the car. It is a EJ22. Does anyone know of any open recalls or the reliability of the A/T or any potential problems? Thank you very much danz

Does anyone know if brake lines should be flushed(at what frequency) and how would you do it? I know that the maintenance schedule calls for replacement of brke fluid but other than draining it and using the bleeding method to pump out old brake fluid, does anyone know or developed a method of proper brake line flushing? danz

How would you figure out maintenance costs per year for the new generation OBW(03-04)? What are the expected repairs(besides the infamous HG) on these vehicles and how does it compare to other vehicles like Honda, Toyota, Audi, VW etc? I love my subie esp with driving in the snow. Just love the handling but I am also concerned with the reliability and 5 yr total cost of ownership. I once had a 93 Legacy which had manual transmission and I keep kicking myself for getting rid of it. Basically, I'm just trying to do a cost analysis of whether I should give up the wonders of AWD and switch to a cheaper more reliable fun summer car like a Honda Civic or VW Golf but suffer during the winters. Any comments/advice would be greatly appreciated. Please be merciful though

Thanks for all the info so far. I usually do most parts replacement(haven't tried anything with the engine or transmission yet) myself since it's always so expensive to have a mech do them. I've always just tightened them by feel and I'm lucky that in my few years of working on cars, I haven't had the warped rotor due to uneven tightening of bolts but after reading about the countless number of threads about the importance of tightening the bolts to the same pressure, I figured that it would probably be a wise investment to get myself a torque wrench. I haven't had to do the HG or anything close to that yet but I'm slowly building up my inventory of tools and knowledge so that when the time comes, I will be prepared. Danz75:drunk:

This is not directly sub related. I've decided to invest in a torque to use on my sub since most of the threads mention about getting the right torque on the bolts. I've seen the craftsman ones going for about $60 for the regular ones and $80+ for the 'digital' ones. HOw reliable are they and how long before they would have to be recalibrated? Thank you for the help. danz75

There's quite a few new pictures and specs for the 05 Outback and legacy. http://www.need-desire.com danz75

It usually happens under the 2 conditions. 1. cold 2. wet usually more pronounced when it's wet. And the sound can only be heard as you're moving off from standstill. But after driving awhile, the sound doesn't come back (unless its a wet and cold day) I've never heard it during braking. Reverse does it too if it's in the morning under the given conditions. Do you think water has gotten into the bearings?

I was wondering if someone knows how to solve this. I have a 92 Legacy with 110k mi 2.2. Usually in the morning and esp if it's really cold out, there seems to be a squeaking sound coming from the left wheel when the car starts moving off. Sound is more pronounced when it's really cold. If there's been a lot of snow/slush and cold out, it does the same thing whenever it turns left. Sound is not heard at high speeds. I've looked at the rotors and the pads and it looks fine. The sound doesn't sound anything from usual sounds brakes make. I'm guessing maybe the hub assembly or the bearings are starting to wear out.. but why does it only happen when it's cold and when I'm turning left? danz75

The link at U of O doesn't seem to work. I have to add that when I first got the car from the dealer, I didn't hear that noise at all, it was only about 2-4 months after that it became apparent. I did the recommended break-in even though I remember the dealer telling me specifically that there wasn't any need to do that. Performed the 3000 mi oil change and filter. I was wondering if it had anything to do with the fact that I used the castrol 5w30. Anyone knows what oil comes with a new OB and if that will make any difference? Apart from the noise, the car seems to be performing well. I wish that the brakes were more effective though cause when I'm going fast down a slope, sometime it feels as if the car doesn't want to stop. I've tried engaging the AT to neutral to see if there is a difference and I usually get a shorter braking distance with that. Wonder why that is the case.

Thanks for the tips. I listened to the file and it sounds somewhat like it except that it is not as loud. And it is usually at 30 below when it does that. I'm wondering if this is a problem that will get worse and if I should take it to the dealer to get it worked on. I've also read that some dealerships are terrible when it comes to repairs and that they can make the problem worse. Any advice on the dealers near columbus, Ohio? What causes the piston slaps and what will the damage be like in the long run if it is not treated? danz75

It's got about 14200 miles now. I did notice that it's worse in the winter and it does it pretty every cold morning. During the summer it's usually fine unless it hasn't been driven for a few days or so. What exactly is this piston slapping that you mentioned? Would it be the pistons contracting due to the cold temp? It vaguely sounds like a rotor cap I once heard on an old 85 van.

I have the 4 cyl and I'm currently using castrol 5w30 and the stock filters. I am debating whether to switch over to syn after reading the posts about the petroleum based oil vs synthetic oils.