ryanw

Was the differential. Finally gave out after 320,000 miles lol. Got a new car (well, used car, but new to me). Thanks for the help.

Shook the hell outta the drive shaft and turned it as fast as I could and could not get the symptom to appear. I put it in FWD mode and that did not change the symptoms at all. Anything else that could make that noise? It sounds like its in the front center... which is why I tried swapping both CV axles.

Thanks guys. I replaced both half shafts today (one at a time) for troubleshooting and still have the same problem. Happens in reverse or forward. Is the drive shaft the next thing I should swap? I've never worked with a drive shaft before. It looks/feels fine to my untrained eye. Anything in particular I can check before pulling it? Could it be a problem in the transmission itself instead?

I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy OBW. I did the EJ25 to EJ22 swap years ago. I'm getting a rhythmic bang/popping sounds that really gets loud when accelerating. It can be felt throughout the car and it can be heard a little (although not near as much) when I let off the gas. It sounds like this: I replaced the front drivers side shaft with one from Advanced several months ago, although the symptoms were different. Any ideas what I should check for this? Thanks in advance!

Update - I replaced Vehicle Speed Sensor 2 and all my problems went away. No codes and speedo and odo are working fine now. Put 1k miles on it over the weekend and its running great!

I have a 1998 Subaru Outback with 295k miles. The speedometer has been slowly failing... at first just hopping a little, now it rarely moves from 0. After driving with the speedometer and odometer not working for a bit it started throwing codes P0500 P1507 P1540 and occasionally the AT Oil Temp light will flash for awhile after starting the car. Codes point to Vehicle speed sensor 2. could the failure of that sensor cause the the issues I am having? Any diagrams available of where VSS1 and VSS2 are located? Thanks!

Thanks... fans were not running.... When this started I found out I have a coolant leak (for unkown amount of time as it is a small one). And it was almost 2 quarts low, so I hoped topping it off would help, but it did not. After I put on the spare MAF and cleaned and removed/reattached cables to all the sensors mentioned the codes have cleared and everything has been working fine. Does unhooking the battery clear the codes? I unhooked the negative side for about 12 hours two nights ago and the codes were still there... I had the positive side unhooked this time (cleaning it off) while I was working on the sensors and the codes were clear when I started it back up. I didnt think unhooking the battery would clear the codes (since it didnt the first time) which leads me to believe I might have fixed something, lol.

lmao...yea, I just bought a cheap one so can at least grab and clear codes. Should be here in a couple days. I have a spare MAF laying around so I threw that on for giggles and am now just checking/cleaning the wiring to all these sensors. After that I will go get the actual codes printed out.

I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy OBW. I did the EJ25 to EJ22 swap years ago. Recently, the car started having problems starting when warm. It started when cold no problem, but if I turned it off and left it for a few minutes, then came back it wouldnt start until I waited a few more minutes. One day it just never started again... I took the fuel line off the filter and there was no fuel coming out at all, so I decided it was a fuel pump issue... I replaced the fuel pump and the car ran great for a couple weeks, getting the best gas mileage it had for awhile.... It has CEL through this all but I "smartly" did not take it to have them checked as I thought i had resolved the problem and they would go away soon. After a couple weeks it started having the same problem of not starting when warm again. I cleaned the MAF for good measure and noticed that when the car was warm and would not start, I could remove the MAF sensor connection and the car would start with no problems... Then I shut it off, connect the MAF sensor and again it would start normally.... So I used this workaround for a couple days until I took it to have the codes read and their are several pointing to the MAF sensor, the Fuel Temp sensor and the CAM sensor. The guy at Advanced was kind of rude so I dont have the exact codes, but I can go to Autozone and get the exact codes if that helps. But I was hoping if I have CEL for at least those three sensors that not all are bad? Could one cause the other to code? Where would I start? Thanks!

Thanks Olnick... I checked out a local rebuild shop and they sold them to me for $15... which seemed high, but the other place I checked only had a kit for $45 and then the dealer didnt have them. I swapped them out earlier and the old ones were worn half to 3/4 of the way down... Not sure how far down they can go, but I'm pretty sure that was the problem. Thanks to everyone for their help! I'll have to call your dealer and get the part number to "inform" my dealer that they are available.

I stopped by my local suby dealer and they said one had to buy the entire starter and that I couldn't get the contacts by themselves. Any part number I should reference or any other place I should look for them?

It is just a loud click then nothing... then try several more times and it eventually works... but seems to be getting worse. I'll replace the starter and see what happens. Thanks!

Have a 98 OBW. Starter has been acting weird... First time I thought it was the battery, but everything else had good juice and it started right up when I tried again. Sometimes it starts right off the bat, sometimes I have try several times... When it doesn't start, it just clicks like it would for bad battery. Is the starter the first thing I look into replacing?

What gas mileage should I expect with a 95 ej22 in a 98 OBW? The guy I bought the engine from had it in a 98 OBW and said he would get 26 mpg on the highway. I get about 20-23 mpg... highway or city driving, neither seem to make much difference. I had it into the dealer for tires and had them check everything out and they said everything tested good and that 20-23 mpg was what they would expect the smaller ej22 to get in a 98 obw. Just wanted to follow up and see what you guys thought.

I replaced the PCV shortly after I installed the 2.2L. However, I did use a generic on that. Should I go buy one from Subaru?