damone
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Posts posted by damone
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pulley outside of the front covers? the only pulleys outside of the front covers are the crank pulley and accessory belt related pulleys (all very simple to remove..just a couple bolts).
i've run without covers even on my off road vehicles that i've had burried in mud, water, snow, etc and i've never had a problem. the only time i had a problem with timing covers was one that became loose and wore a hole in an ATF hose...so you could argue that stuff has some liability with it as well!
plenty of guys...including us that drive off road and in some sever snow areas have run without with no problems for 100's of thousands of miles. if you want more info...just do a search for "naked" or "without covers" or something and read all the opinions. bottom line is you won't have any problems unless you're doing something to intentionally shove stuff up under there in which case you're not using a proper vehicle or driving is the problem, not the covers!
can't really tell about replacement unless you know the dealer or shop, prevoius owner or have the records.
just get a peak and see if it looks cracked and how warn the lettering is. another major thing to check with a timing belt job is the timing belt pulleys. age makes them low on grease and those can cause premature timing belt failure. if it looks decent, all the pulleys are turning with no visible failure signs (seized, bearing popping out), then you can probably guess...like plan on a timing belt change this winter, or next summer, something like that.
how bad was the crank seal leak? oil will degrade the timing belt QUICK. i found that out last year. i installed a timing belt last summer on a friends car and the crank seal started leaking (EA82 engine). it was leaking badly and got on the timing belt. i replaced the seal and just wiped the belt clean. it broke less than 10k miles later, and all the wise people here say it was due to the oil leak. if that's the case for you - plan on a timing belt change sooner rather than later.
it is a NON-interference engine. all 1995 and earlier subaru engines are non-interference. so no worries if it breaks (though sometimes it will break your covers!)
grooves on the front surface don't harm anything for used parts. i can't see it, but if it bolts up and isn't damaged then use it. the only problem i've seen is ones that have been on overheated engines are warped or melted due to heat, avoid those. but that's normally just inside covers, not the fronts.
for installing "new" used covers, just use the bolts holes you have. frankly zip ties are far better than bolts. t he bolts seize in place and turn the inserts they screw into rather than backing out when loosening. this ends up ruining the covers by prying or wahtever means is used to remove them. i just wail them with a chisel and throw them away (like i did just this week on an EJ22). it's a family members car so i don't mind, they know i know subaru's! and i know my grandmother isn't off roading!
so yeah - just zip tie some front covers on there and call it a day. then they won't be seized in place next time.
pardon the length...hope that helps...
Maybe the bolts were seized and that's why some of the attachment points on the inner cover is missing. Someone chisled them off already, lol.
You give good advice, and I think I will just run w/o the covers as I would have to go and purchase them. Maybe when I go and get the clutch pack and parking pawl for the rear extension housing I will grab the covers too.
Any tips on installing the clutch pack and stuff in the rear extension housing. Seems it would be hard to have everything line up in order to get the rear cover back on.
Thanks
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Does the locking bolt act as one of the piston slides?
Boots are in good condition.
I was able to push the piston back easliy (w/ C clamp) when opening up for new/larger pads.
Pads went into anti-rattle clips easily and didn't take much force to get the new pads to slide into place.
I'll eventually get to all these suggestions.
Thanks,
D
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You are overthinking this.
You're parking pawl in the trans is worn. Probably someone parked this car on a hill, then just ripped it out of gear in the mornings. This causes the parking pawl to wear indents.
Problem is, you shouldn't rely on the *Park* function of the trans to stop the car from rolling. If you are on even a slight incline, you must first set the PARKING brake (ie E-brake) before letting you're foot off the brakes and shifting to park. This way the pawl in the trans doesn't get loaded with the full vehicle weight.
Good news is, you can replace the pawl easily when you swap the C solenoid/clutches. It is just placed over a pin, with a spring to load it. Often it falls out when removing the tail section.
I would advise just getting the whole tail section of that used trans, and get the pawl too. No need to replace the entire trans.
When I removed the junkyard rear housing the spring dropped to the ground. I posted up here and was told it is the parking pawl spring. Circle of life eh?
So, since I will have the rear housing off to replace the Duty C selonoid (already have), I might as well replace hte clutch pack and parking pawl?
Is there any tricks to making sure everything is lioned up so when the cover goes back on everything stays lined up and doesnt fall out???
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the mechanic would have had to remove the timing belt front cover to replace the front main crank seal...is that missing too?
the best solution is to save your cash and do the belt replacement at the next timing belt change. some of us (me included) don't even install the timing belt covers, it's just easier to leave them off and makes future jobs much quicker. being my own mechanic i think it's actually more advantageous as well to have the covers off for other reasons.
if/when you decide to replace it:
you definitely don't need anywhere near "all" of the timing cover bolts, there are far more than necessary....so maybe you could sneak the stuff in place without removing all the belts and such.
it's hard to say what you need. there are 5 pieces. two rear pieces that are on the passengers and drivers side - behidn the cam sprockets essentially. and then the three front pieces - drivers sides, middle and passengers side. do you need all 5 or just the fronts? the fronts are easy and don't really require anything to replace...maybe remove the fans (super simple). the rears require removing the crank pulley, timing belt and cam sprockets to replace. loosen the cam sprocket bolts before doing anything else, with the timing belt in place. otherwise it'll be annoying to try and hold it.
it's not hard to replace them. if you have the tools and time to search here and read Endwrench (subaru's mechanic aid) you'll be able to do it. it's not hard at all. just a couple tricks and hints you can read about here or ask. the EJ22 belts are cake really ,easier than the old school subaru's...which i don't find hard either.
When I bought the car the cover was missing. The mechanic brought it to my attention when he replaced the front seal.
Although the rear pieces are in place, the drivers side is missing some bolt locations (broke off???). So I can just put the front cover on with only removing the fans. By the looks of the pulley grooves I would think there is a pulley (that would need to be removed) on the outside of the cover?????
I am fine leaving it as is, but do I have to worry about road debris or dust or water getting in there during normal operation conditons on the roadway.
Is there a way I can tell if the belt has been replaced prior to my ownership???
Is this a "non-interfernece" motor and I can just run it until it breaks????
The 3-piece cover at the junkyard has some pulley grooves, but it is already removed and hid under the rear seat (
) in case i need it. Do the pulley grooves make it no good?Thanks
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AC is checked using a set gauges to check the pressure of the gas in the system. It is not a little fluid. You should be checking all your fluids regularly and topping off as needed.
The ac compressor is loud when it engages as it is an electro-mechanical clutch.
No a bearing wont click like an ac clutch.
If you have the ac off, if it is the coolant pressure being low the noise should stop. If you look at the front of the ac pulley, it will spin when engaged, and not spin when off.
How fast is this clicking noise that you are hearing.
nipper
I'll check these things and get back to you.
Thanks,
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Seems like the caliper is sticking, not sliding. At a minimum, disassemble, check for corrosion, clean, lube.
Uneven wear makes you think the caliper is sticking?? Thanks I'll take apart and lube. Now I would be lubing the pins that the caliper slides on???
Why would it be squeeking?
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Sweet, thnx for the tips. I'm gonna try to get it all back together on thursday so I'll post up my experiences. Not gonna bother with the A/C @ 10,000 ft. Might even get better gas mileage?
I bought an 91 w/o a timing belt cover. What needs to be removed in roder ot get the cover on?
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I wonder if your slowly loosing refrigerant, not enough to affect cooling, but enough to make the compressor short cycle. I THINK the clicking your hearing is the clutch engaging and disengaging.
nipper
When I had it in for the oil leak the mechanic said that it was lacking a little fluid, but I cant afford that service right now.
The clicking sure doesn't sound like it is supposed to do that? I can hear it from afar while car is idling in driveway. It is a new sound I hadn't heard before and figured I would have under normal operation, but maybe not.
Would a bad bearing cause some clicking while it is rotating?
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While reading up on my torque binding issue I read about this lurching. It had to do with either the clutch pack sticking or some fluid pressue still locking clutches together, but I cannot find those articles.
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91 Legacy 180K Miles
Wife comlained about the brakes squeeking. I replaced all the pads and only drivers side front inside pad had any signs of wear. The pad was worn to the wear indicator, but not evenly acorss the pad. More on the lower side of the pad than the upper side. Not down to backing, no metal showing.
No other pads showed any noticeable wear.
Car still squeeks while light breaking.
Thoughts/Advice?
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91 Legacy Wagon L, 180K miles Auto, AWD
I purchased the vehicle, and now see that I should have got a better deal.
There is no timing belt cover. It looks like the backing plate that the cover attaches to has been broke off (maybe during removal) and therefore I assume it was never put back on.
Looks like only a couple of the attachment points are broke.
Dont really have expertise to remove timing belt, pulleys, etc... to put backing plate on, but prolly could remove some stuff to put cover back on and only attach at points that are left to attach to and maybe rig some other type of holder/clamp/etc... at broke location or is anything needed at tall as there is it really is only a dust/debris cover right????
I have access to a full 3-piece cover and backing plate at the junkyard, but not sure I want to tackle the project.
Local Mechanic will cost $300+ to install correctly all three pieces, but I would do th efront cover if I could get away with it.
What needs to be removed to place timing belt cover????
I had an oil leak fixed at the mechanics (main seal?) and they had to remove the front pulley (which one????) which then failed and crumbled into pieces the day following getting the Sub back from the dealer. Dealer found a pulley at the junkyard and replaced the pulley saying it took a 6-ft long lver bar to break loose the pulley bolt.
I assume because it was recently done I wouldn't have that same issue.
What needs to be off the front of the motor to get the timing belt cover on?
Thanks,
D
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er um, have you popped the hood to look to see if the click matches the ac compressor clutch engaging?
nipper
Although I cannot see the AC clutch as there is some sort of bracket above the compressor (can barely see the leading edge of the pully), the click, tick, whatever sound would only be noticeable when the AC was ON. When OFF there was no sound. Wife noticed the sound was there upon start up when the AC was OFF.
Now the clicking ticking whatever is there all the time.
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How about more specifics-mileage for sure.My Jeep at 181000 miles does this
and it's a combo of slack in the drivetrain and where the tranny has to line up with the parking awl.Just the fact that your car is a 91 leads me to say that you've got to expect little things and have lots of pennies to keep up with it like your other post regarding your A/C noise.i would advise that you do a thorough inspection just to see if anything looks out of whack,if you don't have the knowledge or skills ask someone that does to take a look then go from there.It is very hard to diagnose problems/symptoms over the computer without sound or hands on.I'm not putting you down but as you'll learn description is everything and without specifics don't expect much.
180K miles.
Car is pretty much a junker and I will do what I can to keep it going.
I get about 23 mpg after new plugs and wires was getting 19mpg.
I figure the cae will not run like new seeing how it is almost 20 years old, but a guys gotta ask right?
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91 Legacy Wagon L
After I place the vehcile in park and let off th ebrake the car lurches forward a bit.
I figure this is tranny related.
I have the binding issue, but have removed the rear driveline until I can replace the Duty C which I got from the junkyard, but have not installed yet.
Is the lurching an issue that will get worse over time?
When removing the Duty C out of the junker the clutch pack seemed to be OK and was not rusted together. I'm thinking I might want to go and get that entire tranny otu of the junker if the lurching is a for warning of full failure?
Thoughts????
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A click started to sound off after start up. I think it is coming from the AC compressor, maybe near the pulley.
At first the click was louder once the AC was turned ON, but now it is there all the time. Goes away a bit when reved up, but seems to always be there.
The AC is working as usual, and no other symptoms.
Thoughts? Advice?
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Yep, fuel filter sounds like a good place to start.
Mine started right away upon turning the key and I replace dthe plugs and wires then it stared right up but after a few cranks???
Plugs were coroded bad and wires seemed in good condition.
Cheap wires and plugs maybe.
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if this spring has 'hooks' at one or both ends, it is probably off the 'park lock' mechanism. the thing that keeps the car from rolling when in park. it is a surprisingly simple device located low in the trans, visible after removing the extention housing.
third row down, far right picture, in the centerof the pic near the bottom, does it look like this?
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/?
I'll have to view pix later.
It was the only spring in the extension housing. Fell out as we pried the housing off.
Thanks.
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Did they do a dye test or only visual inspection.
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I'd probably use the whole damn tailshaft section from the junker.
I have run into a few subtle differences in different years, so you may want to keep the shaft matched to it's original housing.
But using just the shaft/clutch pack would probably work too.
Make sure you get all the grooves in the individual plates all aligned before trying to mate it to the output.
So really, I shouldda just took the entire extension housing and replaced as a unti instead of pulling the Duty C out.
I put the housing and the shaft and plates inside the car on the floor just in case I needed it later.
How long can one drive w/o rear driveline w/o hurting something.
All the reading suggests everything from both extremes.
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Probably most common need of used Subarus. Local garge mechanic would do it for $800. Dealer quoated $1200-1300.
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Only the spring dropped. Not the flat roller bearing.
I will check photos later.
Thanks
What about putting used shaft and clutch as an assembly from a junker unit?
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from what i've seen , it's easy. a snap ring on the hub and they come right out.
the trans shop i used to do mine, used a rtv type gasket on the rear extention housing.
Wonder if I can replace the shaft and the cluitch plates outta a junker as one piece??? The one i opened up looked good and could move the plates seemed liek no signs of wear.
Got Duty C outta a junker. Energized it and heard the click. Was able to blow through oil tube while it was energized and afterwards. I might need to try w/o tube in place as I mayhave been blowig through a leak at tube/Duty C connection??????
I got air to pass w/ and w/o power to Duty C.
Exhaust was already off junker and it only took about 1hr to remove driveline, cross bars, and extension housing.
Didn;t get to install on my vehicle (have to order seals), but I did remove the rear driveline and TB is gone. Running in FWD until I get seals and a few hours (a day or two) to remove mine and put used Duty C in.
A sping popped out of the housing when we worked it off the alignment pin. Looks like spring goes around a shaft inside the housing.
Any advice on putting spring back together?????
Chiltons says housing must be removed as an assembly ewith the tranny. Waste of $20.
Thanks
D
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Got Duty C outta a junker. Energized it and heard the click. Was able to blow through oil tube while it was energized and afterwards. I might need to try w/o tube in place as I mayhave been blowig through a leak at tube/Duty C connection??????
I got air to pass w/ and w/o power to Duty C.
Exhaust was already off junker and it only took about 1hr to remove driveline, cross bars, and extension housing.
Didn;t get to install on my vehicle (have to order seals), but I did remove the rear driveline and TB is gone. Running in FWD until I get seals and a few hours (a day or two) to remove mine and put used Duty C in.
A sping popped out of the housing when we worked it off the alignment pin. Looks like spring goes around a shaft inside the housing.
Any advice on putting spring back together?????
Chiltons says housing must be removed as an assembly ewith the tranny. Waste of $20.
Thanks
D
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Thanks.
I'll probably should order those seals today eh?
Brake Squeek
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Yes, I meant the lock pin and caliper slide.
Thanks for all the tips.