damone

Yes, I meant the lock pin and caliper slide. Thanks for all the tips.

Maybe the bolts were seized and that's why some of the attachment points on the inner cover is missing. Someone chisled them off already, lol. You give good advice, and I think I will just run w/o the covers as I would have to go and purchase them. Maybe when I go and get the clutch pack and parking pawl for the rear extension housing I will grab the covers too. Any tips on installing the clutch pack and stuff in the rear extension housing. Seems it would be hard to have everything line up in order to get the rear cover back on. Thanks

Does the locking bolt act as one of the piston slides? Boots are in good condition. I was able to push the piston back easliy (w/ C clamp) when opening up for new/larger pads. Pads went into anti-rattle clips easily and didn't take much force to get the new pads to slide into place. I'll eventually get to all these suggestions. Thanks, D

When I removed the junkyard rear housing the spring dropped to the ground. I posted up here and was told it is the parking pawl spring. Circle of life eh? So, since I will have the rear housing off to replace the Duty C selonoid (already have), I might as well replace hte clutch pack and parking pawl? Is there any tricks to making sure everything is lioned up so when the cover goes back on everything stays lined up and doesnt fall out???

When I bought the car the cover was missing. The mechanic brought it to my attention when he replaced the front seal. Although the rear pieces are in place, the drivers side is missing some bolt locations (broke off???). So I can just put the front cover on with only removing the fans. By the looks of the pulley grooves I would think there is a pulley (that would need to be removed) on the outside of the cover????? I am fine leaving it as is, but do I have to worry about road debris or dust or water getting in there during normal operation conditons on the roadway. Is there a way I can tell if the belt has been replaced prior to my ownership??? Is this a "non-interfernece" motor and I can just run it until it breaks???? The 3-piece cover at the junkyard has some pulley grooves, but it is already removed and hid under the rear seat ( ) in case i need it. Do the pulley grooves make it no good? Thanks

I'll check these things and get back to you. Thanks,

Uneven wear makes you think the caliper is sticking?? Thanks I'll take apart and lube. Now I would be lubing the pins that the caliper slides on??? Why would it be squeeking?

I bought an 91 w/o a timing belt cover. What needs to be removed in roder ot get the cover on?

When I had it in for the oil leak the mechanic said that it was lacking a little fluid, but I cant afford that service right now. The clicking sure doesn't sound like it is supposed to do that? I can hear it from afar while car is idling in driveway. It is a new sound I hadn't heard before and figured I would have under normal operation, but maybe not. Would a bad bearing cause some clicking while it is rotating?

While reading up on my torque binding issue I read about this lurching. It had to do with either the clutch pack sticking or some fluid pressue still locking clutches together, but I cannot find those articles.

91 Legacy 180K Miles Wife comlained about the brakes squeeking. I replaced all the pads and only drivers side front inside pad had any signs of wear. The pad was worn to the wear indicator, but not evenly acorss the pad. More on the lower side of the pad than the upper side. Not down to backing, no metal showing. No other pads showed any noticeable wear. Car still squeeks while light breaking. Thoughts/Advice?

91 Legacy Wagon L, 180K miles Auto, AWD I purchased the vehicle, and now see that I should have got a better deal. There is no timing belt cover. It looks like the backing plate that the cover attaches to has been broke off (maybe during removal) and therefore I assume it was never put back on. Looks like only a couple of the attachment points are broke. Dont really have expertise to remove timing belt, pulleys, etc... to put backing plate on, but prolly could remove some stuff to put cover back on and only attach at points that are left to attach to and maybe rig some other type of holder/clamp/etc... at broke location or is anything needed at tall as there is it really is only a dust/debris cover right???? I have access to a full 3-piece cover and backing plate at the junkyard, but not sure I want to tackle the project. Local Mechanic will cost $300+ to install correctly all three pieces, but I would do th efront cover if I could get away with it. What needs to be removed to place timing belt cover???? I had an oil leak fixed at the mechanics (main seal?) and they had to remove the front pulley (which one????) which then failed and crumbled into pieces the day following getting the Sub back from the dealer. Dealer found a pulley at the junkyard and replaced the pulley saying it took a 6-ft long lver bar to break loose the pulley bolt. I assume because it was recently done I wouldn't have that same issue. What needs to be off the front of the motor to get the timing belt cover on? Thanks, D

Although I cannot see the AC clutch as there is some sort of bracket above the compressor (can barely see the leading edge of the pully), the click, tick, whatever sound would only be noticeable when the AC was ON. When OFF there was no sound. Wife noticed the sound was there upon start up when the AC was OFF. Now the clicking ticking whatever is there all the time.

180K miles. Car is pretty much a junker and I will do what I can to keep it going. I get about 23 mpg after new plugs and wires was getting 19mpg. I figure the cae will not run like new seeing how it is almost 20 years old, but a guys gotta ask right?

91 Legacy Wagon L After I place the vehcile in park and let off th ebrake the car lurches forward a bit. I figure this is tranny related. I have the binding issue, but have removed the rear driveline until I can replace the Duty C which I got from the junkyard, but have not installed yet. Is the lurching an issue that will get worse over time? When removing the Duty C out of the junker the clutch pack seemed to be OK and was not rusted together. I'm thinking I might want to go and get that entire tranny otu of the junker if the lurching is a for warning of full failure? Thoughts????

A click started to sound off after start up. I think it is coming from the AC compressor, maybe near the pulley. At first the click was louder once the AC was turned ON, but now it is there all the time. Goes away a bit when reved up, but seems to always be there. The AC is working as usual, and no other symptoms. Thoughts? Advice?

Mine started right away upon turning the key and I replace dthe plugs and wires then it stared right up but after a few cranks??? Plugs were coroded bad and wires seemed in good condition. Cheap wires and plugs maybe.

I'll have to view pix later. It was the only spring in the extension housing. Fell out as we pried the housing off. Thanks.

Did they do a dye test or only visual inspection.

So really, I shouldda just took the entire extension housing and replaced as a unti instead of pulling the Duty C out. I put the housing and the shaft and plates inside the car on the floor just in case I needed it later. How long can one drive w/o rear driveline w/o hurting something. All the reading suggests everything from both extremes.

Probably most common need of used Subarus. Local garge mechanic would do it for $800. Dealer quoated $1200-1300.

Only the spring dropped. Not the flat roller bearing. I will check photos later. Thanks What about putting used shaft and clutch as an assembly from a junker unit?

Wonder if I can replace the shaft and the cluitch plates outta a junker as one piece??? The one i opened up looked good and could move the plates seemed liek no signs of wear. Got Duty C outta a junker. Energized it and heard the click. Was able to blow through oil tube while it was energized and afterwards. I might need to try w/o tube in place as I mayhave been blowig through a leak at tube/Duty C connection?????? I got air to pass w/ and w/o power to Duty C. Exhaust was already off junker and it only took about 1hr to remove driveline, cross bars, and extension housing. Didn;t get to install on my vehicle (have to order seals), but I did remove the rear driveline and TB is gone. Running in FWD until I get seals and a few hours (a day or two) to remove mine and put used Duty C in. A sping popped out of the housing when we worked it off the alignment pin. Looks like spring goes around a shaft inside the housing. Any advice on putting spring back together????? Chiltons says housing must be removed as an assembly ewith the tranny. Waste of $20. Thanks D

Got Duty C outta a junker. Energized it and heard the click. Was able to blow through oil tube while it was energized and afterwards. I might need to try w/o tube in place as I mayhave been blowig through a leak at tube/Duty C connection?????? I got air to pass w/ and w/o power to Duty C. Exhaust was already off junker and it only took about 1hr to remove driveline, cross bars, and extension housing. Didn;t get to install on my vehicle (have to order seals), but I did remove the rear driveline and TB is gone. Running in FWD until I get seals and a few hours (a day or two) to remove mine and put used Duty C in. A sping popped out of the housing when we worked it off the alignment pin. Looks like spring goes around a shaft inside the housing. Any advice on putting spring back together????? Chiltons says housing must be removed as an assembly ewith the tranny. Waste of $20. Thanks D

Thanks. I'll probably should order those seals today eh?