ergo

coolant was below the uppermost line...that's gotta be the full line, ; can't see the "L" or "F". I do check the level when engine is cold. And the radiator cap does seem tight. If it was loose, the pressure test would've found it.

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Talking to other Sube owners I get responses from no coolant loss to yeah, sure, some loss due to evaporation from reservoir. Even if there's some leakage, My Sube's not running hot. Temp indicator always stays in the middle of the center zone of the temp guage. Anyway, If head gasket failure is likely, I'd just as soon dump the Sube and get a high mpg car instead of having the head gasket replaced. I'm not sure that AWD with its lower gas mileage penalty is worth it these days, with skyrocketing gas prices. If the head gaskets are sound and remain so, I'll keep the Sube. I do like the car. I've got the Subaru extended warranty on the head gaskets. If I take it back to the stealership and press the issue about coolant loss, they'll charge me for rechecking for leaks. If no leaks are found once again, where do I go from there? If head gasket is replaced under warranty, the likelihood of further head gasket problems remains. I've talked to other Sube owners who have had head gaskets replaced under warranty only to have repeated failures down the line. I don't need or want the aggravation. aircraft engineer Well, I just give the reservoir about a 1/2 to 3/4 of a second's worth of a splash to bring the coolant level back to where it originally was( the top line in the lower portion of the reservoir. Possibly the coolant loss is 2 ounces.

Since having my Sube's coolant replaced at stealership, they also did a pressure test for leakage, no leaks found, I've been topping up the reservoir with Peak premix; coolant level drops about an ounce or so per 1k miles. I've been wondering what aftermarket coolant approximates the Subaru brand, it's around $27 per gallon. Since headgasket failure in the 2.5L engine is endemic, a coolant with a gentle chemistry, like the one with the Subaru label, makes sense to use, I would think.

Sounds good. I may try filing it down some.

I'm thinking that I'll end up with the same problem with a replacement end. I'll try modifying the existing one first.

Sounds good. I'll try and score a piece of scrap metal somewhere. Thanks

After experiencing intermittent non engagement of the starter when clutch pedal is depressed and engine is warm, I cleaned the battery terminals and connecters with a wire brush so that they're squeaky clean. A voltmeter is now telling me that the battery current isn't up to par. The v-meter's yellow and red LEDs light up when engine is off and the digital readout is below 12 volts, 11 something. Instument panel lights work as do all electrics. Starter has so far been working ok, since cleaning battery terminals and connecters. I discovered that the battery connecter to the Positive terminal is somewhat loose; it just can't be tightened securely enough. It either swivels on the terminal or rocks slightly from side to side no matter how much I tighten the connecter's locking nut. I'm suspecting that the battery terminal may be slightly tapered making it difficult for the connecter to get a tight grip on it; I could be wrong. The connecters are the original one's that came with the car and the battery was replaced not too long ago. Car has less than 75k miles on it. Anyone have any hints about how I can successfully tighten the connecter. I don't want to have any more starter non engagement problems.

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I'LL get a hold of a volt meter. 75k miles seems too early for the ignition switch to go. Friends who have OBWs and Legacys haven't had their ignition switches go that soon.

Well, I cleaned the battery terminals and connectors and that reduced the frequency of the problem. It still occurs though. I tried banging the starter with a hammer but that didn't allow it to activate. BTW, I neglected to mention that the problem never occurs when the engine is cold, only when the the engine is warm. When engine is cold starter always works. Problem only occurs if I let the clutch out too quickly in traffic and car stalls or If I try to restart after driving for a while.

]year 2001 w/75000miles.started fine before. all other electrics work dash lights do come on. Ok I'll whack the starter with a hammer[

year 2001 w/75000miles.started fine before. all other electrics work dash lights do come on. Ok I'll whack the starter with a hammer

When I Depress The Clutch Pedal To The Floor And Turn The Ignition Key There's No Sound From The Starter. What Could The Problem Be.